Tamiya Durga DB01 EP Buggy (A cheaper 501X?)

[outspaced]

AJ,

That's pretty much what I was thinking. I ordered the BZ for £20 delivered and will use it until I feel the need for more speed which may well be BL. As I said I'm just making tentative steps into the hobby so don't want to go all-out too soon.

[sosidge]

Originally Posted by jimmy

The car is easier to drive on slippery tracks - when it gets high grip the slightly flexible chassis probably makes it a little less consistent and predictable than my 501X.

It's funny you should say this Jimmy, I actually find the opposite is true - I find the car is a lot faster (comparitive to other racers of a similar standard to me) when the grip is up than when it is slippy. I don't have a 501X of my own to compare with but I have tried other peoples 501s on a slippy floor and they seem a lot more planted than my Durga! My assumption was that the rearward weight bias of the 501 generates more traction.

I'm pretty sure you must be pretty happy with your setup (judging by the excellent results you are getting) but I found that the one thing to make the biggest difference in the consistency of the Durga was to fit the TRF shocks on the outer hole of the rear wishbones with the kit spring. It stops the rear end rolling about excessively.

However, it could be my driving skills that are the problem... I always seem to run better when there is ample grip, not so good when things are slippy.

[jimmy]

I might try that mate, I've not played around with the shock position on the rear arms much but I will try it out, if it helps out on high traction then that might be the cure - it was the body roll on high traction I didn't like, but as for how the car goes I'm super happy with it. I'm gonna take both my 501X cars to Italy but I thought the Durga might be better on the bumpy low traction surface, I'll have a day of testing to see which car is better tho and I'm looking forward to seeing.

[mole2k]

I've never driven a durga but my 501 is absolutely planted on the slippery floor compared to other cars i've driven.

[A.J. Gee]

Originally Posted by CAClark

Mine is still proving a pain in the arse, if some of you kind folks could take a look at my last post in this thread:

http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10698

I bought the thing so I could get in to actually racing it, and I've no chance as it stands, and I can't see what the problem is :-/

Cheers!

Hey man i am sorry to hear that your problem with the Durga is still happening. Just as jimmy has stated, it is hard to diagnose the problem without having the car in flesh. Quite obviously the problem has something to do with your electronics. Did you buy your gear new or used? The best suggestion for the problem was that your motor timing might be set too high. Did you look into this possible problem?
From my understanding you are quite new to this hobby. I feel your pain and know just how frustrating things can be when things aren't working properly, especially with the amount of money you have probably spent. Luckily for me i learned how to diagnose certain things and how to fix them by starting off with simple kits and electronics. All of my kits have been Tamiya and started with the hornet, then a stadium blitzer, to the midnight pumpkin, a Manta ray and a couple of other simple kits. All of the kits just mentioned are ones that i would not purchase at this point in time due to performance purposes, but all were very fun to drive and to work on but most of all taught me everything i know in this hobby.
I understand that none of my rambling is going to help you, but i encourage you to stick with it as things will be rewarding when you have a better understanding of the hobby and how things work. I hope that it doesn't sound like i'm belittleing your knowledge for the hobby. My best suggestion to fix your current problem is to bring your car to a meeting so that you can have someone look at it for you. I myself don't race, but understand that the best place for you to have your car looked at for no cost would be at the race track. I hope i have been a little helpful for you and wish you the best of luck to get things sorted out.

[AaronR]

I run the rear shocks mounted on the most outward hole on the rear arms too on high traction surfaces. Jimmy, when are you going to Italy and why?

[jimmy]

European Championships are on the collegno track in Italy - the same one used at the World Championships in 2005. Its some time in July I think. I'll take all my Tamiyas but if theres no real difference between the 501X's and Durga, I'd prefer to race the plastic machine just because it's more satisfying to beat someone with a Durga

CA, definitely get down to a club and ask around and someone will surely have a look for you

[ashleyb4]

my god this thread is long.

A

[A.J. Gee]

Originally Posted by ashleyb4

my god this thread is long.

A

So isn't my D!@%. Sorry guy's i just had to say that. Just let me know if this is too inappropriate for your site Jimmy. That kind of talk will get you kicked out of certain RC forums. I just won't mention which ones.

[AaronR]

Originally Posted by jimmy

European Championships are on the collegno track in Italy - the same one used at the World Championships in 2005. Its some time in July I think. I'll take all my Tamiyas but if theres no real difference between the 501X's and Durga, I'd prefer to race the plastic machine just because it's more satisfying to beat someone with a Durga

Sweet! I look forward to the pre- and post-game reports!

[Toonz]

my TAC4 is coming up next sunday and i haven't touched the durga for a month

[mog ruith]

Originally Posted by jimmy

I'm just building a new DB01 at the moment to take to Italy for the Euros. I think if you keep it fairly simple then it's a great car. Of course, you have the option to stick tons of hopups on it, some like the CVD's are a good idea, others like Alloy Hubs and alloy steering are more looks than anything as I've never broken a plastic item and the alloy make the car feel different (worse) I think.
My new car has the rc Champ screw set, which I've used because I had it kicking around for ages - but if I was buying a set now I'd get the ones from Tonys screws.

My new car has:

front one way diff
slipper
501X shocks
alloy/titanium screws
501X (worlds?) ball studs
501X rear diff (all metal)
Kanzen ceramic diff balls

On the way:
TA05 carbon battery strap (to stiffen the car a little)
carbon front rear middle top covers (to stiffen the car a little)


pros and cons?

Pros: with minimal hopups (TRF shocks) the car is awesome.
Strong, somewhat sealed from the environment, reliable
easy to drive

cons: motor and diff access is a little poor - you have to undo 10000 screws.
kit screws are rubbish and almost impossible to build the car with!
the chassis and other parts are best to be pre-tapped to make it easier to build - I used a screw on a drill to do this.
The car is easier to drive on slippery tracks - when it gets high grip the slightly flexible chassis probably makes it a little less consistent and predictable than my 501X.

hey jimmy thanks for the advice and you got pm

[CAClark]

Thanks for the reply, I'm a returning owner really, as I owned a Hornet, and then a Samurai twenty years ago, so things are a lot different now then they were then. The only real issue it can be realistically is gearing. Everything rolls free, and based on someone recommendation on pinions, I have pinions that pitch either side of what would be best suited for a 17T (incidentally, the motor doesn't have adjustable timing).

I'm somewhat cash strapped at the moment, but I'll quite likely be at Batley with my mate sometime soon.

Jimmy, just out of interest, what would be your brushed motor/pinion of choice for the Durga if it is run with an LRP Quantum2 Competition?

Cheers!

Originally Posted by A.J. Gee

Hey man i am sorry to hear that your problem with the Durga is still happening. Just as jimmy has stated, it is hard to diagnose the problem without having the car in flesh. Quite obviously the problem has something to do with your electronics. Did you buy your gear new or used? The best suggestion for the problem was that your motor timing might be set too high. Did you look into this possible problem?
From my understanding you are quite new to this hobby. I feel your pain and know just how frustrating things can be when things aren't working properly, especially with the amount of money you have probably spent. Luckily for me i learned how to diagnose certain things and how to fix them by starting off with simple kits and electronics. All of my kits have been Tamiya and started with the hornet, then a stadium blitzer, to the midnight pumpkin, a Manta ray and a couple of other simple kits. All of the kits just mentioned are ones that i would not purchase at this point in time due to performance purposes, but all were very fun to drive and to work on but most of all taught me everything i know in this hobby.
I understand that none of my rambling is going to help you, but i encourage you to stick with it as things will be rewarding when you have a better understanding of the hobby and how things work. I hope that it doesn't sound like i'm belittleing your knowledge for the hobby. My best suggestion to fix your current problem is to bring your car to a meeting so that you can have someone look at it for you. I myself don't race, but understand that the best place for you to have your car looked at for no cost would be at the race track. I hope i have been a little helpful for you and wish you the best of luck to get things sorted out.

[jimmy]

I've been running a peak vantage 12x1 on 20t pinion outdoors, that's with a Keyence zero-V Extreme speedcontroller. I've just built the new car and put a 12x2 reedy Ti on the same gearing in it.

[CAClark]

Logic dictates it can only be the gearing. I did at least get to see the car running for a quater of an hour or so at a pretty decent pace, which in itself was good, because with the LRP GT3 12x2 it was really slow. Needless I won't be buying a budget motor again when I can get a new one. I'll be looking at those that you mentioned.

Cheers!

Originally Posted by jimmy

I've been running a peak vantage 12x1 on 20t pinion outdoors, that's with a Keyence zero-V Extreme speedcontroller. I've just built the new car and put a 12x2 reedy Ti on the same gearing in it.

[jimmy]

a peak / orion vantage / v2 is what you want as they last ages. I am using the reedy because I have a few new ones

[mog ruith]

hahaha went crazy just now and go get my self a db01
during my lunch, right now i have manage to assamble
the diff, front and rear shock tower
anyway the plastic used on this kit is great
its somewhat better than my df02 and dt02
plus the kit screw sux

[jimmy]

When I built up the new durga at the weekend, I spent a few minutes with a hex-head screw in a drill just pre-threading all the holes. The screw got hot enough to smoke and even burn my finger - but it made installing the screws a lot easier.. needless to say I didn't use the kit screws though.

[CAClark]

I must admit I have noticed how rubbish the kit screws are, need to order a screw kit when I get a new motor I think.

Cheers!

[CAClark]

Originally Posted by jimmy

a peak / orion vantage / v2 is what you want as they last ages. I am using the reedy because I have a few new ones

Okee dokee, nice one.