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  #1821  
Old 30-08-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Welshy40 View Post
http://rclazy.com/


I dont know part numbers but did send rclazy the originals and they had them. Their web site is easy to find on google, and if in the uk they are easy to call and ask for them, just ask fir lazer zxr diff balls
Yeah, I remember sending you some, I measured the balls you sent me.

But, I, err, forgot to record what size I sent you...

I'm pretty sure they are 3/32" (2.4mm) in the main diff if someone wants to measure them?

Again, can't remember about the thrust balls, I think they are 1/16" - again, can someone measure them?

Simon
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  #1822  
Old 30-08-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moth898 View Post
Hey Ron, where are the blue steering knuckles from?
they came with a full car purchase mate
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  #1823  
Old 31-08-2011
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took a while sorry! pretty sure it's a zx, but here you go:


It does have a slipper and this weird middle diff thing, how do you stop that from working?
Also if I get a new shell in future, are there any choices other than TBG & Kamtec and what's your verdict on them?
ta!
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  #1824  
Old 31-08-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peetbee View Post
took a while sorry! pretty sure it's a zx, but here you go:


It does have a slipper and this weird middle diff thing, how do you stop that from working?
Also if I get a new shell in future, are there any choices other than TBG & Kamtec and what's your verdict on them?
ta!
Pete,

Kamtec do the Parma Tomcat shell but doesnt come with an undertray and is a work of art but has no cut lines so patience is a virtue with this, but I know thats a doddle for you. I use that and bought a ZXR undertray from ebay (the chap is based in Canada), its a repo but is good enough for what you want.

Youll need megga thick grease for the ZX slipper system but even that might not do it, as its very picky to ge right. Its really better suited for a low grip slippy surface.

The simplest way of stopping the ZX slipper (yes your cars is a ZX) is by buying my 100T 48dp spur from RW racing and the B4 or B44 or even SC10 extra torque slipper pads and just take the original spur out and the balls but take the washer out of the middle and put onto the new spur and also when fitting the slipper pads make sure you also attached on either side those extra large metal washers that are from the third diff.

Also you have the correct steering plate on the car (no matter what anyone else says this is the best out of all the ZX/ZXR versions) so if you have bump steer spacing the steering knuckle arm should resolve that.

Anyway if you need any help just PM me or give me a yell whenever (Dave has my number), not a problem at all.
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  #1825  
Old 31-08-2011
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marwan or integrafan has the zx body too .

otherwise its Kamtec or teambluegroove.

mvh Isobarik
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  #1826  
Old 31-08-2011
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i wired up my zx-r about an hour ago,

i put a 10.5 novak motor in it with a gtb speed controller and ratio 100/22

i hope the 22 pinion is ok against a 100 spur..

damn for a 22 yr old car it doesnt half shift, i bet it would be lethal with a 5.5 in it...
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  #1827  
Old 31-08-2011
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Yup I use a 5.5 but think it needs work as im not happy as its not quick enough yet, and 25 or 26 is more correct for the 10.5 so will be a bit quicker if your up for it.

Also anyone know who does all the timing inserts for x12 LRP? There are five in total and only found the four,three and two dot versions but want the one and minus dots, any ideas?
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Designer of the Lazer ZXRS
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  #1828  
Old 04-09-2011
Lazer zx-r Lazer zx-r is offline
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if i am not mistaking i think one or two of the bits fits both ways...
(have dots on both sides, different off course)

will you have any starting torque with the "one" and the minus dots?
i feal i dont have enough acceleration with the two dots.. on my 6,5 X12 octa wind. but it goes like hell when the rev comes up...
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  #1829  
Old 05-09-2011
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Ok, it looks like I need a new OT16 as one of them has a stripped thread
Anyone know where I can get one from? Ta!
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  #1830  
Old 05-09-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peetbee View Post
Ok, it looks like I need a new OT16 as one of them has a stripped thread
Anyone know where I can get one from? Ta!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OT-16-Alum...e#ht_500wt_922


or do you mean the standard ones

sent pm with link to some
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  #1831  
Old 05-09-2011
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Gerard you havent forgott to send me an adress ???

mvh Isobarik
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  #1832  
Old 05-09-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isobarik View Post
Gerard you havent forgott to send me an adress ???

mvh Isobarik
pm'd
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  #1833  
Old 05-09-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lazer zx-r View Post
if i am not mistaking i think one or two of the bits fits both ways...
(have dots on both sides, different off course)

will you have any starting torque with the "one" and the minus dots?
i feal i dont have enough acceleration with the two dots.. on my 6,5 X12 octa wind. but it goes like hell when the rev comes up...
I didnt see any other dots on mine, hence why I asked. Maybe I got a one off pack with out the dots on the other side. I will buy another set to see.

4 dots more accelaration, two dots less but apparently more top end. One dot and the neutral - sign should give the full potential with the 12.5mm armature in. Currently its not there yet with two dots, as I am still lacking and need more top speed to drive the car the way its supposed to be with my set up.

Doh, didnt realise they could be swopped around and typical LRP dont mention it in their manual and dont reply emails. Cant wait to try the x + 10 setting to see what it does.
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  #1834  
Old 06-09-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rondoolaa View Post
or do you mean the standard ones
Thanks for the links, but what do you mean standard ones?
The ones on my car are alloy, look the same as the ones on the Optima Mid
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  #1835  
Old 06-09-2011
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I'll guess he means alu or plastic...

mvh isobarik
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  #1836  
Old 06-09-2011
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so if mine were standard they should be plastic or are the alloy ones fitted standard?
I'm tempted to go plastic because of the price, any performance/strength differences?
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  #1837  
Old 06-09-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peetbee View Post
so if mine were standard they should be plastic or are the alloy ones fitted standard?
I'm tempted to go plastic because of the price, any performance/strength differences?
Its really down to preference considering that you wont be using it that much the plastic ones will be fine, but for me the alloy are stronger and the king pins dont vibrate out with threadlock on.
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Designer of the Lazer ZX/ZXR carbon fibre tub chassis
Designer of the Lazer ZXRS
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  #1838  
Old 06-09-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isobarik View Post
I'll guess he means alu or plastic...

mvh isobarik
yer i did mean plastic as the ones in link in the pm are that i sent
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  #1839  
Old 06-09-2011
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Thanks again guys, plastic ordered
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  #1840  
Old 11-09-2011
barbara08 barbara08 is offline
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Patrick, I've had all three Lazer ZX, Lazer ZX-R and Turbo Optima Mid SE.

It depends on which Optima you are referring to. Some had chain drive,
while the later ones were belt. I do believe the Lazer lines used a wide
stance and a center diff. The ZX-R had a one way center diff as well.
Also, the Optima Mid I have has a Medal chassis, while the Lazer line uses
Graphite. Beyond this I cannot remember because I have sold both the Lazer
ZX and ZX-R on ebay a couple of months ago, but I sill have the Optima Mid
SE.
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