210/410 heat issues??

[hotrodchris]

Originally Posted by OneKiwi

FYI its not the newer LRP speedo



How did you get the gear ratio calculations?

Kiwi

There are also aps available that will work this out available for a smart phone!

[ASR]

I had a few temp issues all of a sudden for a couple of meetings last year, when running on the same equipment i had been since the start of the season. I went through everything in the car and it was perfect condition and the problem remained!!!

The final thing i did was to totally re-wire the car inc connectors and sensor wire, problem solved straight away.

The car never performed badly before, just got mega hot, only thing i could imagine was that the wiring was fractured causing electrical resistance. I'm not certain but all i know is it solved my problem.

Hope this helps?

[OneKiwi]

Did you redo servo wires etc or just the 12AWG wires?
It maybe worth a shot

[ASR]

No, didn't touch servo wires, its just process of elimination and if you have explored every other avenue then its worth a go.

[OneKiwi]

I am getting a little better temps with the fan in and 87/19 on the 410 but still not totally happy( maybe never will)

17T pinion lacked the speed on the straight

Now the LRP in the 210, I can't get the esc above 60° that I am happy about.

I changed settings from agressive throttle no. 6 of 8 down to no.1 and noticed only the smallest difference, I had hopped that that would help the temps but no still 100° on the motor geared at 83/25

I have now taken the motor timing down to 000 -5° that didn't really help either

I might just look at going back to the 87 spur to see if that helps or changes anything.

Any more pointers?

Ill swap the cables in the 410 today to try that

[drobec]

Are all the components of your drivetrain moving free? (driveshafts, diffs) And what about slipper? Isn't it too lose? What's it's temperature after the run? Also reflashing software in ESC might help, it cooled my SP GT 10 degrees down. Try to do your wiring and you'll see, I'm also rebulding mine, my car's also quite hot after the run, I'm trying 10 AWG (thicker) cables from battery to ESC cause batteries are also hot (they're taking heat from chassis). I'll also try alu tape under motor and/or batteries to reflect some heat. Compared to Cat, Rango's quite hot car in my opinion.

I'm running 410 (one of the first kits) btw.

[OneKiwi]

With the 410 its a new v3 so might have a little bit of running in needed.

The 210 well holding one wheel and the spur I do have to use a bit of force to twist the other one thus moving the slipper.

I might just switch back to the ball diff and see if its the gear diff that maybe is too tight.

[Andrew Twigger]

LRP's are known to run hotter than other makes. Can you hold your finger on the can for a couple of seconds after a run?

Are you doing 5 minute runs?

[Big G]

I temp gunned mine on tuesday.

The track is very small with low grip. The car only maxes out top speed maybe once a lap for less than a second. Indoors also.

I run a Reedy Sonic 6.5 (19t pinion) with the RS pro speedo. After 6 mins of run time my motor was 67oC and the speedo was around 80oC.

No fans only holes in the shell.

[OneKiwi]

I suppose they maybe shouldn't expect a warm motor after a whole lipo. Although Im not running a full lipo to cut off.

I did have a play around with the 210 today and found that with the gear diff doesn't turning as smoothly, so Im pretty sure that, that is the problem.

I felt this when I was building it and read about the same problem that a few others were having. I hoped that it would bed in after so much running.
Maybe TD do have a problem with the gear diffs

I haven't put the ball diff back in as I swapped out one of the plastic idel gears with one of the metal ones from the arrma diff that is a little smaller.

It does spin better but only had a RM3 (ball diff that spins better) to compare it to, more gears a little more friction