Some questions TLR22

[Alex_X6]

hello..

i have some questions, sorry if they alredy had in another topic...

the layout of my electronic is the same as many, servo and just behind, the esc... not in the plate that should be.. in this away i belive that de equilibrium point is diferente that the developers do... just like same people made in x-factory, someone descover the equilibrium point on tlr22? for example, the x6 is 174mm from the front axle (i hope i made me understand).. i think that this help very much... even more that im experience de the problems that is comun in outher people that is the agressive steering and the loss of the car in last part of de corner... i alredy try everting that i read in this forum but the solution was 4 line of tire whit dremmel

another questions is about de diff.. i know that the nut is pain in the ass... its possible use the nut (inside plastic) like the associated? that white plasctic whit the nut in is interior? seems like very strong... in my asso never had probelms whit that nut diff..

about the wheel... there is another options from the front wheels? another model of losi (xxx foi exmple? )... our, b44 front wheels?

sorry for my bad english.. best regards from portugal...

[Legacy555]

Hi Alex,

Most 2wd cars seem to be best with a 35% front and 65% rear split.
Put two weighing scales on a level table and see what balance you have. The balance can be corrected by moving electical components or adding weights.

[Alex_X6]

Originally Posted by Legacy555

Hi Alex,

Most 2wd cars seem to be best with a 35% front and 65% rear split.
Put two weighing scales on a level table and see what balance you have. The balance can be corrected by moving electical components or adding weights.

tanks legacy, in my x6 thats was my point, 35-65 and hit works good... i want to know if any achive this distance, like the x-factory, to be more easy to equilibrate the car

[Chris56]

Originally Posted by Alex_X6

hello..

another questions is about de diff.. i know that the nut is pain in the ass... its possible use the nut (inside plastic) like the associated? that white plasctic whit the nut in is interior? seems like very strong... in my asso never had probelms whit that nut diff..

The diff screw is M2 size so requires an m2 nut. The kit nut is a little fragile and is easily stripped. I decided to replace mine with a tamiya m-chassis nut/retainer and is much stronger. Theoretically, so long as you use an m2 nut and the retainer fits inside the outdrives, it will work