Caster SK10 Pro. Any other Casterites out there? - Page 5

Collegeboy · #81 06-01-2013

Hi Kullyrc

I've had the SK10 for 2yrs now and made lots of adjustments and set up sheets for all the tracks I have raced on. These vary from smooth flowing out door tracks, to uneven ones with varying sizes of jumps (both high and low grip) and indoor carpet/astro and polished wood surfaces, again with varing sizes of jumps and features. Alot of your starting point would be based on three steps

1. Ride height
2. Suspension (number and size of holes, oil viscosity, spring rating and droop

3. And finally tyre choice (new or part worn, rows cut off and grade of inserts)

This may seem vary daunting at first, but once you have played about a bit and made notes (that is one of the most important things to do) then it will become second nature.

for the passed couple of months I have been competeing in two winter series, one at Silverstaone and the other at Maritime. Silverstaone is high grip astro (indoors) Maritime is Low grip carpet and polished floor sections.

Yeserday I had R4 at silverstone (high grip indoor astro) and I used the same set up from last weeks Area 51, with only changing to a part worn yellow mini spike on the rear. The front I'm running at present a set of old 2wd Staggers.

1. Ride height was set at 17mm all round

2. Suspension

Front

2 hole black kit pistons third hole drilled, all to 1.6mm
Team associated shock oil - 42.5 Wt
Caster blue springs

Rear

2 hole black kit pistons third hole drilled, all to 1.6mm
Team associated shock oil - 27.5 Wt
White spring springs (These are either Associated or Losi, cann't remember which)

Front Diff

15000 wt

Rear diff

10000wt

The car felt and looked dialed all day. Qualified 9th and finished 6th.

For Maritime next Sunday I will have to go a lot lower in both the diffs and change the suspension slightly to compensate for the lack of grip. Tyre choice will be mini pins (yellow), but I have some new Caster kit tyres to glue up, as in the passed these have work really well on low grip tracks (once srubbed in slightly)

Hope this has helped you in some ways, as previously mentioned I have lots of set up sheets. If you PM me your email address, I get the ladies at work to scan them and I can sent them to you. These are my own ones that I have drawn up and includes new and old hubs etc.

I like this car so much and enjoy it everytime I race, that I have made a 2wd version which I raced at Area 51 last week. It went so well that it generated a lot of interest. Qualifying in the J final 9th and finishing 4th (I have never owned or raced a 2wd before last week) out of 140 drivers, I was in the third final. I have pictures of the build process which I have sent to Pete at Answer-rc and will post on the forum soon.

If there is any other help I can give you, just PM me.

Paul

kullyrc · #82 06-01-2013

hi, just want to thank everyone for there help, I would be greatful paul if you could email me the setup sheets, my email address is ksbhatoe@yahoo.co.uk.

once again many thanks p.s. i love this caster buggy one of the best.

V6Jim · #83 06-01-2013

Me too!

jimsan17@tiscali.co.UK

Thanks!
Jimmy

Dalla · #84 07-01-2013

Me too!

ian.dalziel@blueyonder.co.uk

Thank you
Ian

Collegeboy · #85 07-01-2013

Hi

Will do when they get the emails working again at work. Been down since last Wednesday.

Paul

gd26 · #86 13-01-2013

Hi All,

Just ran the V3 for the first time I have a few mixed reviews about the car here's a list
1. Excessive play in steering
2. Having to track the car at start off every race
3. Excessive slop between wheels driveshafts bearings

Dont get me wrong car ran well enough and still need a few tweaks here n there. But I'll need to iron out these issues above 1st does anyone one else have/had these problems

V6Jim · #87 13-01-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by gd26

Hi All,

Just ran the V3 for the first time I have a few mixed reviews about the car here's a list
1. Excessive play in steering
2. Having to track the car at start off every race
3. Excessive slop between wheels driveshafts bearings

Dont get me wrong car ran well enough and still need a few tweaks here n there. But I'll need to iron out these issues above 1st does anyone one else have/had these problems

Hi Gary!

There should be a bit of play in the steering, but not an excessive amount. Just check all the connections. Yours is the only V3 in the country, so you're a pioneer! It might be worth locking the servo saver entirely to help with the steering consistency.

As for the sloppy wheels/bearings? :-\

gd26 · #88 13-01-2013

Yeah the driveshafts could be doing with being tighter in the bearings thats where the play is but as I said it ran ok... I understand about a bit play in steering but it may be a combo off shafts bearings etc but I'll need to take a look at it that will be my plans on Tuesday night

V6Jim · #89 13-01-2013

So, do you reckon the shafts are a sloppy fit in the bearings? Wow, that would be odd. If they are, contact Peter at Answer and get replacements. The bearings will be alright... That wouls certainly explain the steering slop and centering problems....

Jimmy

gd26 · #90 13-01-2013

I can't see peter at answer replacing them as the car was bought from the state's but I'll send a email Mike/Betsey fi caster to see what they say

jym watty · #91 15-01-2013

Hi all, just getting back in to rc cars after a few years off and recently purchased a caster s10b brushless rtr, the guy in the shop said it was the new model as it has the big bore shocks, metal geared diffs and now takes stick batts rather than saddle packs, v3? it seemed the best buy for the price(£155) I'm also having difficulty getting the car to track straight and requires constant adjustments on the trim, is this a problem with all the new cars? By the way good info on the diff oils will definitely be experimenting after reading this thread, thanks guys

SamRCRacing · #92 15-01-2013

Hi,

What radio are you running?

Sam

V6Jim · #93 15-01-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by jym watty

Hi all, just getting back in to rc cars after a few years off and recently purchased a caster s10b brushless rtr, the guy in the shop said it was the new model as it has the big bore shocks, metal geared diffs and now takes stick batts rather than saddle packs, v3? it seemed the best buy for the price(£155) I'm also having difficulty getting the car to track straight and requires constant adjustments on the trim, is this a problem with all the new cars? By the way good info on the diff oils will definitely be experimenting after reading this thread, thanks guys

I'd be surprised if it was a V3. I don't think Caster make an RTR with the new Big Bore shocks. If it comes with white springs it might be. I expect it came with yellow ones which will make it the standard two year old RTR.

Having said that, it's still a good car for the money and can be fully, and I mean fully, upgraded to a full V3 Pro version!

The tracking thing is most likely either dodgy radio or servo or some stiffness or slop in the steering mechanism. Disconnect the steering arm from the servo horn and check two things. Check that the steering is working smoothly with no rough bits or tight bits. Then check that your steering servo is centering every time.

Over time you can add some of the pro bits to the car as you find necessary.

Keep in touch,

Jimmy

jym watty · #94 15-01-2013

It's just the cheap 2.4ghz it came with, looks same as the ansman w5. Just looked on the box and it says they are big bore aluminum shocks with heavy duty 3.5mm shaft but as you said they have yellow springs so I'm not sure? Will check the servo tomorrow and if it ends up being the radio gear i will just have to invest in a better 1 because the car is worth the upgrade anyway so no biggy, the guy in the shop did say it was the new model though which has only just come out with its upgraded diffs and battery configuration and he reckoned the motor was abit hotter too but he might just of been after my money haha

V6Jim · #95 16-01-2013

Yeah, those are the old shocks. They are fairly big bore, but not as big as the new ones. Still fine though. I still run them on my car.

The RTR radio/esc/motor equipment will be fairly low power and budget quality. Should be serviceable enough to get you going.

However, once you bolt in some serious power and better radio gear, prepare be pleasantly surprised!

The only real weak link in the RTR car is the slipper clutch (The white spur driven off the motor). It needs to be locked solid to prevent it slipping as it will self destruct otherwise - it overheats and melts! There is a new, upgraded one available which you can switch up to later.

Have fun!

Jimmy

jym watty · #96 16-01-2013

Thanks v6jim, Just re centred the servo and checked and adjusted the camber and toe in and it tracks a lot better now, you were saying about the slipper clutch, will it not damage something if I tighten it down fully? Mine is at the back of the chassis just in front of the rear diff not central like on all the pics I've seen? Are the upgrade slipper easy to source?

SamRCRacing · #97 16-01-2013

Can you see if the nut is internal or external. The new slipper has an external nut so you are able to adjust while in the car. I am not sure if you get the new one with the new rtr, but if not and you want to change this then you need to change the centre driveshafts.

Also if anyone wants one, I might have some of my old caster setup sheets lying around for indoor high grip carpet and outdoor astro high grip wet and dry.

Let me know,
Sam

jym watty · #98 16-01-2013

Just checked and it's the old internal type, I can't seem to adjust it though as when I try to tighten or loosen the hex screw the nut on the other side just turns and i can't get a cross wrench in or anything as it's too tight a space

discothesnake · #99 16-01-2013

Get yourself another servo. That's probably your biggest problem. The RTR ones are usually not the best.

As for the slipper, don't lock it up. You'll destroy your diffs. Regardless of them being geared.

V6Jim · #**100** 16-01-2013

Your slipper's at the back?

What you need to do is get a small screwdriver and slide it down inside the drive cup beside the wee nuts. This will prevent them from turning. It's not ideal locking up the slipper, but it'll last longer this way. If it slips too much it just overheats, melts and self destructs.

If your slipper is at the back, the motor must be at the back too. Hmmm. I've had a look on the Answer website and I think you've got this one! I've never seen this before.

http://answer-rc.com/uk/en/1291-cast...th-buggy-.html

This is indeed a new kit as it has the new style wheel hexes fitted! Interesting! Looks pretty good. Keep us posted. Oh yeah, because it is entirely different from the previous car and the current pro car, I'm not sure how 'upgradable' it'll be....

Jimmy