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#1
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Secrets of the 22
How about a thread of 22 top tips, not just set-ups?
Here are some of mine from a lot of testing in mid and rear motor: 1. The shock upper mounts, being plastic, baloon and grip the inside of the shock when tightened and add loads of friction to the suspension. I've sanded mine down a bit and always check the shock freely swings as I tighten the nut so it is just on the point of gripping. For me this is the biggest single improvement I've made to the car after I first built it when it wanted to go in circles when I touched the throttle and was the source of the car riding bumps badly. 2. On the mid motor LRC is best. Can honestly say everytime I move back to LRC traction and stability is better. Have given up on HRC now. 3. Running the hubs SWB on a mid motor really helps traction. 4. On high traction surface with a mid car lose the 50g rear weight as it turns sweeter and faster without it. 5. On medium grip grass run 50g rear with lipo weight for traction. 6. Add some toe out bumpsteer as this calms the front on turn in. |
#2
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What setup are you running to get number 6 ?
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Stevie Brew BW-RACING@HOTMAIL.COM http://www.oople.com/forums/showthre...hlight=stegger |
#3
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The 7" Jconcepts wing makes mine feel more stable coming into a fast corner (Mid-Motor)
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Martyn Kyosho | Team Orion | Sanwa | Rudebits | Proline |
#4
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Ah o.k must admit with the kit wing at the batley regional at the beginning of this month, at the end of the main straight going into the left hander when lifting off the power totally the back end would step out. But i found by keeping some power on i could balance it quite well. Is that the "V" wing 7" ?
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Stevie Brew BW-RACING@HOTMAIL.COM http://www.oople.com/forums/showthre...hlight=stegger |
#5
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Quote:
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Martyn Kyosho | Team Orion | Sanwa | Rudebits | Proline |
#6
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What does SWB stand for? I've seen other abbreviations as well, like MWB, but i have no idea what it is :/
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#7
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Quote:
Medium Wheel Base : MWB
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Martyn Kyosho | Team Orion | Sanwa | Rudebits | Proline |
#8
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How is your cars forward traction like out of hairpins?
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#9
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Mine is superb. Good traction every where. I raced at Taplow last night and there were quite a few tight turns on carpet and some on really slippy hardboard and the car was good on both. I qualified A1 and finished A2 (due to some shoving at the start ) but the car was dialed.
I have found a setup for indoor carpet which seems to work really well for me but to be honest, every time I change something small it's like starting over again. I really do think this car is awesome but you need to find that sweet spot that works for you. There are quite big differences between people's setups, for example, I have tried running staggers and cut staggers on the front and they just don't work for me when pretty much everyone else there were using them. |
#10
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Pookster, which LRC and HRC blocks have you compared?
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#11
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I'm finding the more weight I add the better, Yesterday I ran the 50g TLR rear weight, Rudebits 74g under lipo weight (with saddles) and I have also ordered the Rudebits side pod weights (30g) to try.
I only run the 50g rear weight when it's wet.
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Martyn Kyosho | Team Orion | Sanwa | Rudebits | Proline |
#12
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Normal, infact the set-up in the manual gives you exactly the right amount of bumpsteer.
All real cars run toe out bumpsteer, it helps on turn in for high speed corners which is a problem you've mentioned so why not give it a go. Porsches have a lot of toe out bumpsteer for example. |
#13
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Traction on mine is very good in mid motor, on astro grass and loose dirt.
When there is less grip it needs the 50g weight on the back to get traction but to be honest there is no single thing, it's a combination of lots of things to get the traction. |
#14
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I've tried 3.5deg and 4.0deg. I prefer the 4.0deg, bit more stability plus with the 3.5deg the turn in was a bit too agressive.
So after buying loads of stuff I'm running the stock 4deg LRC with only 1 deg antisquat as per the manual. |
#15
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Same here, I am now running the 4 degree but still HRC.
Might try what others are doing and try 4 deg LRC again. |
#16
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Main tips ive discovered;
Front wishbones can bind when doing up grubscrew Front kingpin and caster block can bind if you do the screwpins up tight,i presume when worn in a bit i can do them up more
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~Rick Evans~ ~LRP~shark st ft~lwb~ ~Carisma GT14B pro~ ~Schumacher KF2~ ~Schumacher Atom~ ~BSR Basher-RallyX~ ~Ascociated RC8.2e RallyX~ ~TeamC T8EV3 RallyX~ phat bodies worm-racing http://www.mendiprcraceway.co.uk |
#17
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anti squat
for all you guys running mid-motor how have you guys been using anti squat to adjust the handling and forward bite? just curious as this will be the first car i run mid and all the club guys are dominating with rear and id like to show them the mid motor car will do just as well. (highbite clay u.s. track)
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#18
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Just a few Secrets:-
Diff - Is critical on this car, more than any other car I have had, re-build every meeting and keep checking after every run. Diff – The associated t-nut fits straight in if you’re struggling to get the kit diff tightened or having problems with the kit nut slipping. Diff – It should not matter but I always put the t-nut on the opposite side to the motor plate, as I have had issues with the diff loosening. Rear Losi weight - You don’t always need to run this especially if there is lots of grip everywhere on the track, I change mine depending on grip using lead. Rear Roll bar – Most of the team run one (0.9mm one) again especially if there is lots of grip. The XXX4 fits straight on, I made my own. Rear Toe In – I find I get more grip (predictability) with the 3.5 degree toe in compared to the 4 degree. Gurney – Use full gurney and use a 7” wing. The kit wing is too small for our UK tracks. One change at a time – This car is very sensitive to change, always one change at a time Just a few J
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http://insidelineracing.co.uk |
#19
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Again, i'm totally different to everyone else.
I seem to keep coming back to a Light car. 1540g is where mine is and i love it. Had some problems yesterday at Cov on grass, but a lot of that was because i was driving like a Tw** I will at some point try it a lot heavier, around 1740g is what i keep seeing, but for now i like mine light. |
#20
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Darren Bloomfield was running Rudebits 104g under lipo weight, Rudebits 30g side pod weight's and TLR 50g rear weight on his setup
Pictures on the Rudebits site
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Martyn Kyosho | Team Orion | Sanwa | Rudebits | Proline |
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