Build Questions

[Lee]

This is what you need

http://www.shacktools.com/britool-pc...16aeece3b3a5ec

[DaveG28]

Cheers Lee, is that the one you've used?

[Lee]

Mine are not those exact ones, but they are the same size.

[DaveG28]

Hi Jimmy,

I've got a pair that works now, if you still need some let me know?

Dave

[jimmy]

Thanks bud but I've got a pair on the way which will come after the weekend - if anyones going to Bury this weekend tho I wouldn't mind using them there if you can bring them? Lee?
The car is pretty near done but I dont know if I will race it this weekend or save it for Oswestry

[Lee]

Im hoping to get to bury Jim, as long as its not going to pee down all day

[stuhurley]

I'll be at bury Jimmy. If Lee doesnt make it, I can lend you some circlip pliers I dremmeled to fit

[SHY]

Originally Posted by jimmy

Well I've failed - the tool I got from maplin is simply too big in all regards - so got to take it back and try find another. I'm reluctant to get one off t'internet unless someone knows for sure it will fit since I've been EVERYWHERE looking for one and only met with failure
I assume I have the slightly longer original spacers since it's easy to tear the seals when threading the shaft thru - which is what I did I wouldn't mind but AERO went overboard with these clips that could seemingly hold a tank in place.

I've long finished my A-1, with only minor build problems. As to the O-rings I found that the grooves for the E-clips for the pistons are too sharp, and they cut off pieces of the O-rings. When applying some AE green slime and in stead inserting them with the thread first it went well.

[jimmy]

I went in thread first, and yes I was cutting the orings. There's no chance of leakage since they are so tight I have it 100% kit setup and it really doesn't feel right at all if I'm honest - even with the supplied 30wt oil it feel super over dampened. I think once I've put a proper setup on there (thanks to Lee for his help) it'll be nice.
The setup aside, the actually car is very nice indeed - superb quality which in all honesty I didn't expect, at least not this good.

[DaveG28]

Hi Jimmy,

I've had/having the same damping problem, are you going to drill out the pistons and do the oring changes/snad down the spacer?

Those eare my next steps (thanks Lee and Kev ), if you've any other good pointers your trying on the damping let me know!

[Lee]

Dave, there is no other tips etc regarding the damping, once you have sanded the spacer and put some whities in and drilled the piston then they feel as good if not smoother than any shock i have ever built.


The only thing i have done (so has Kev) is dremel off the little lump on the front hubs (the bit that hits the castor block on full lock) to allow more steering lock. You might not feel you need it but its an option.

[SHY]

OK, so what is the correct length of the nylon spacer?

I agree J, the dampening feels way to hard for a std. setup. Not sure whether I will actually use the car, but if I do I think I'll use Losi shocks.

I'm also very curious as to 0 degree toe-in for the rear! OK, it will probably steer like crazy but must be very hard to control?

Aero7.jpg

[Lee]

The car is suprisingly good SHY with the 0 rear toe, it actually gives the car a lot of side bite off power. I would give it a try if i were you.

Regarding the shocks, they are excellent, if losi shocks were better, im sure we would be using them

[jimmy]

I think the shocks just need those adjustments - from what I know the spacer is now changed in the latest kits (not mine) and Aero actually are still producing pistons so I assume the ones included are the only ones around at the time.. I would hope Aero would work on a better kit setup so people can get going quicker.
I have drill bits from Lee so I can drill the pistons out to his recommendations but I need to get the tool to take the shocks apart first. I spoke to Bob at Aero and he said it might be something they will stock in the shop so people have access to the tool easier.

[SHY]

What should the holes be drilled to in mm?

[jimmy]

There's a question. The bits I have are all imperial I think? Lee?

[Lee]

They should not be drilled in mm. You cant get drill bits close enough to the imperial sizes.

You have to get the number sized drill bits

[DaveG28]

The higher the grip of the track the better the 0 degree hubs work, on grass it was very good, on dirt and in the wet I've struggled.

with the shocks, I can't tell the drill bits from each other, but I'm hoping I'll be ok with roughly 1.3mm rear holes (whichever Losi drill is closest to that I used) and one size smaller at the front. No spares so screwed if their too big!

Jimmy, I used Tamiya shocks at the first regional, you'd need to change spacers etc on the top mount to make it work right (I had them at an angle and bent three shock shafts!) but its much better than pre-fixed Aero ones!

[Northy]

I'm ordering some 'number drills' today if anyone is interested?

G

[KevLee]

As far as the shocks go i have built them with a thinner top washer to put less pressure on the seals.

Reducing the spacer will do the same thing and i would estimate taking about 0.5-0.75mm off that. The shocks are very smooth and free once you have done this (and added some whities) so ignore how they feel if you have not done this yet.

I currently have them setup with 56 holes front and rear with 30wt front and 25wt rear with Aero blue springs front and red springs rear (thats was in the cold and wet so maybe go up 5wt if its warmer).

These are the rest of my settings

Front
outside on wishbone
inside on tower
long upper link on tower
short link on hub - no spacer
Aero wheels (slighly wider than losi)

Rear
Short inboard wheelbase
short outboard wheelbase
middle hole on wishbone
middle hole on tower
long link on tower - 1/4 from bottom in slot
middle link on hub
Antisquat - 2 x 1.5mm washers

Gearing on 5.5 - 21/87

Notes: removed pip from steering link for more lock
removed material from under steering link balljoint (at wheel) to stop bump steer
Cutdown turnbuckle ballcup to increase droop at rear
one-way