Just finished my b44.1 - couple of Q's for help please :)

[Lonestar]

Hi Guys I'm done with the build of my b44.1... this is my first 4wd offroad car since I ran my original xx4... last millenium

A couple of things that have me puzzled, was wondering if you could help.

1- wobbly front wheels. The rims look fine, it's in the hex I'd say. Any known way to assemble them or mount them on the axle that'd minimize this? It's visually pretty scary to say the least. Any special tips on the hexes to prevent losing them everytime you change the fronts? Thanks

2- the steering post holes in the top deck are ridiculously much larger than the the plastic parts that are supposed to go in it. This creates absurd amounts of slop in the steering system. Did I get a lemon, or is this common? Is it worth trying to fix?

3- the car still sounds like a pepper mill despite breaking the primary drivetrain in for like 6hrs with an old brushed mill under 3V and shimming this properly (I think, at least definitely not on the tight ie noisy side)... this is appalling, really.... any fix?

4- Center cvd cups - all wobbly on the slipper axle... is this "normal", again? worth trying going aftermarket?

5- last but not least... anyone has a 9783 blue alum part for sale (front deck-to-tower block) please? OOS everywhere

Thanks all for the help
Paul

[MiCk B.]

Originally Posted by Lonestar

Hi Guys I'm done with the build of my b44.1... this is my first 4wd offroad car since I ran my original xx4... last millenium

A couple of things that have me puzzled, was wondering if you could help.

1- wobbly front wheels. The rims look fine, it's in the hex I'd say. Any known way to assemble them or mount them on the axle that'd minimize this? It's visually pretty scary to say the least. Any special tips on the hexes to prevent losing them everytime you change the fronts? Thanks

The hexes should have a pin in them connecting them to the axle. Hexes should stay in place when the wheel is removed.

2- the steering post holes in the top deck are ridiculously much larger than the the plastic parts that are supposed to go in it. This creates absurd amounts of slop in the steering system. Did I get a lemon, or is this common? Is it worth trying to fix?

The steering parts should be a snug fit to the carbon top plate, can you supply a photo.

3- the car still sounds like a pepper mill despite breaking the primary drivetrain in for like 6hrs with an old brushed mill under 3V and shimming this properly (I think, at least definitely not on the tight ie noisy side)... this is appalling, really.... any fix?

Car should be fairly quiet when built.

4- Center cvd cups - all wobbly on the slipper axle... is this "normal", again? worth trying going aftermarket?

Again doesn't sound normal, can you give a photo?

5- last but not least... anyone has a 9783 blue alum part for sale (front deck-to-tower block) please? OOS everywhere

Thanks all for the help
Paul

Can't help you on the 9783 part.

MiCk B. :-)

[Gaz_Stanton]

Might be worth rechecking the build. Responses below:

Originally Posted by Lonestar

Hi Guys I'm done with the build of my b44.1... this is my first 4wd offroad car since I ran my original xx4... last millenium

A couple of things that have me puzzled, was wondering if you could help.

1- wobbly front wheels. The rims look fine, it's in the hex I'd say. Any known way to assemble them or mount them on the axle that'd minimize this? It's visually pretty scary to say the least. Any special tips on the hexes to prevent losing them everytime you change the fronts? Thanks

No wobble normally. Are you sure you've put the hex on before putting the pins in?

2- the steering post holes in the top deck are ridiculously much larger than the the plastic parts that are supposed to go in it. This creates absurd amounts of slop in the steering system. Did I get a lemon, or is this common? Is it worth trying to fix?

Again not normal. There's a plastic cap that screws onto steering before top deck going on. Have you got this piece fitted?

3- the car still sounds like a pepper mill despite breaking the primary drivetrain in for like 6hrs with an old brushed mill under 3V and shimming this properly (I think, at least definitely not on the tight ie noisy side)... this is appalling, really.... any fix?

Doesn't sound right as transmission usually quiet. Pics would help here.

4- Center cvd cups - all wobbly on the slipper axle... is this "normal", again? worth trying going aftermarket?

Have you got the little grub screws installed into the cups that hold the pins in at both ends? It all tightens up properly once these are fitted.

5- last but not least... anyone has a 9783 blue alum part for sale (front deck-to-tower block) please? OOS everywhere


Thanks all for the help
Paul

[Richard Lowe]

1 - Sounds to me like you've put the drive pin through the CVA and then put the hex on after with the hex the wrong way round. You need the hex on the driveshaft first with the groove for the drivepin facing the outside of the car, then you put the pin through.
(Don't worry, I remember Jimmy making the same mistake when he got his review BJ4 )

2 - The two bits of plastic from the top of the steering assembly that seat in the holes in the topdeck are pretty loose, that's just how they are. I keep meaning to try drilling a hole through the topdeck so the screw that holds the top plastic part of the steering assembly on goes through the topdeck as well. Though I suspect the slightly loose fit is intentional to allow the chassis/topdeck to flex without tweaking the steering and binding it up.

3 - Sounds like something's shimmed wrong or the grubscrew of the pinion is hitting the spur or something like that, the gearbox's on the car are very quiet. You don't need to 'run in' the gearbox, it's either built as intended or not - I just build mine up and run it.

4 - The rear cup should be pretty solid, the front one is a bit wobbily. Again this is just how it is, makes no difference.

Rich

[mattb]

The top of the steering rack sits tight in my top deck

[Lonestar]

Thanks all for the quality replies Going one by one

1- oops. Enough said

2- sounds like it's a common issue. Say there's about a quarter of a millimiter on each of the post caps (yes, they're on ) in their cwf holes... not enough for the posts to move that much, especially once the deck is tightened down, but still too much for my taste especially as it's just about machining the top deck right... I guess I'll run it like that.

3- that's the one that's really upsetting me. Ok, I'll tear the car apart again and try to figure out what's up again, point #1 was humbling enough to make me skeptical about my kit-building abilities It IS turning, but not really freewheeling like I'd expect from a shaft car, although this is way less of an issue with the HP and capacity in the modern BL/lipo setups than it was in the good ole brushed motor days

4- yes the grub screws/oring are on. All right, I'll do with slightly wobbily cups.

Wilco if I find anything interesting re drivetrain. Thanks all

Best,
Paul

PS: no one with a 9783 for sale, then? they've been bo'ed everywhere since I started looking 2mths ago

[MikePimlott]

Originally Posted by Lonestar

Thanks all for the quality replies Going one by one

1- oops. Enough said

Made me laugh.

[McPhee]

Have you used the correct pins in the centre CVD cups as mine are both rock solid on the shaft??

[Lonestar]

Originally Posted by McPhee

Have you used the correct pins in the centre CVD cups as mine are both rock solid on the shaft??

Hi

well, I have no spare pins left after building the kit and if there was one too small there there would be one too big somewhere else and it wouldn't fit, so I would expect that the right ones are at the right place... but Mr. Lowe seem to confirm that some wobble, especially on the front cup is normal. As said, I'll tear the car apart again. Was running 8th scale this weekend so couldn't wrench on the AE

Wilco

Thanks
Paul

[Lonestar]

Originally Posted by MikePimlott

Made me laugh.

Looks like I'm ready to start my own world-class RC website

[gazhillAE]

9783 should be back in at CML in a week or two

Gaz

[Lonestar]

Originally Posted by gazhillAE

9783 should be back in at CML in a week or two

Gaz

good to know, cheers