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#1
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captive ball joints
hi can someone tell me what the part number is to put the k2 captive ball joints
onto my k1 and any other parts i might need thanks |
#2
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Take a look on the schuey website, (K2 suspension section) you can get various lengths of threaded rod, but the end length is the same.
On the rear wheels they can catch, so may be worth just changing the front. You don't need anything else, just the rod ends. |
#3
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thanks i will check for the part number
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#4
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Don't bother that are crap, the turnbuckles push in all the time, Schumacher looking to make newer versions and quite a few people are replacing them on their k2 to older spec ball and cups !!!!!
__________________
Schumacher K2 Schumacher KC Hobbywing XR10 Pro V4 - Xerun V10 - Sanwa - Highest HV www.racing-cars.com |
#5
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to late ordered parts this morning
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#6
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You can run the newer captive ball studs on the K1, but you will need to match them up with Lunsford 3.5mm turnbuckles. The stock Schumacher turnbuckles are 3mm and a good hit will either strip them out or ram them into the captive cups. Don't forget to use the new chrome washers that come with the captive cups as well, without them you will experience binding.
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#7
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Must be some heavy crashers out there!
I've been running them for months and every time I put the car on the setup station its spot on! I managed to tear the entire front of KF2 off last month and no issues with the turnbuckles pushing at all.. |
#8
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I have had the rear links go short on me a couple of times. I just put it down to me crashing off big jumps rather than a fault with the links! But thinking about it my K1 never had that happen and I ran that for three years!
Don't miss them popping off as was the standard for the K1 though! Lol |
#9
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Buy some lunsford super duty 3.5mm turnbuckles. Part numbers below.
1 x 11067 2 x 11070 The kit ones will take some abuse but in all honesty not that much. All it takes is a good solid whack then they're no good. I'm much happier with the lunsford ones. |
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