22 diff screw

[DCM]

Feel a numpty for asking, but the manual isn't clear, diff screw head, mid motor, does it go on the left or right, I keep telling myself, left.

[Chris56]

Originally Posted by DCM

Feel a numpty for asking, but the manual isn't clear, diff screw head, mid motor, does it go on the left or right, I keep telling myself, left.

Screw goes to right if looking at the car from the rear

[Gnarly Old Dog]

Originally Posted by DCM

Feel a numpty for asking, but the manual isn't clear, diff screw head, mid motor, does it go on the left or right, I keep telling myself, left.

So long as the thrust race is working, it won't affect performance whichever way round you fit it but for ease of access, I tend to always build my diffs so the adjusting screw hex head is on the non spur-side of the car cos it's easier to see it and easier to adjust.

So in terms of mid motor, hex head to the right but in terms of rear motor, hex head to the left.

As for the numpty feeling - don't worry - I actually asked the car's designer and I think he nearly fell of his chair laughing. His point to me was that if I was worried about it loosening off if I fitted it the wrong way, then it must also then tighten itself when fitted the right way. So I deffo felt like a proper numpty then

[DCM]

Thats ok then... now got to work out why the box binds when tightened, looks like warped gearbox halves....

[Gnarly Old Dog]

Hmmm,
My mid gearbox did appear to have a slight high spot when I built it. It was noticeably worse if I pinched up the screws and the motor plate bolts hard so I ended up carefully tightening all the screws and bolts in a cross pattern (like you would for a cylinder head) and backing them off a touch as soon as I felt the high spot. On rctech, I think I read somewhere that some guys were using threadlock on the motor plate and not torquing the plate down hard.
I don't know why but the mid gearbox does appear to be more critical to torque down than the rear gearbox does.

Also, make sure the idler shafts are fully inserted and pressed into the case half - from memory, I think the top one is quite tight.

As for the high spot now - it certainly doesn't appear to have affected the gearbox at all in operation and I can't detect it now so it seems to have bedded in.
Don't know what the cause is but perhaps the shape of the mid gearbox makes it more prone to warpage during post mold cooling?

[DCM]

It is definitely a moulding issue, as when you mate the halves together, dry, they aren't fluch, so as you do nip the screws up, the casings start to distort. Could you report it back through the Team network, to be checked? I got it reasonably free, but nowhere near as free as it should be.