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#2
07-07-2012
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Boil the parts, adds some strength to it. Did it to mine and Ive had it sanp once, done the camber links a few times, but with that said they were fast shunts.
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"I`m sorry Mr Race Controller, i misjudged the turn and ended up going full chat straight into him!!!" Life`s Boring unless your sideways. 
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#3
07-07-2012
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Didnt team C make a stronger front nose piece ?
Found em http://www.teamcracing.net/index.php...mart&Itemid=71 http://www.teamcracing.net/index.php...mart&Itemid=71
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#4
07-07-2012
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Not broke mine as i`ve done a few crashes, even a endo cartwheel on a straight and it didnt break.
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#5
07-07-2012
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Never had a problem with mine, I know a few people with the same problem but somehow after a few major crashes, still in one piece! I have also heard that the kevlar one is brittle but not from my own experiences from someone elses who broke it 1 race after putting it on.
 Sam
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Sam Harris Serpent Spyder SRX-2 MM
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#6
07-07-2012
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Have to say i've not broke anything front end since i've had mine. I had a phase when i snapped 2 or 3 front axles within a week or two but since that they've been fine. Sometimes just luck (or no luck) as to whether things break or not.
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TLR 22 3.0/3300kv brushless Lunchbox/Helion 2wd sct/Dromida MT4.18/Orlandoo F-150/Mardave Cobra/Re-re Cat xls w/uprated tranny/Re-re Top Force/Carisma GT24R http://www.norfolkbuggyclub.moonfruit.com/
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#7
08-07-2012
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Its not weak at all, i ran mine for two years and never broke the front end, other than a wishbone or two...
Simple answer though would be... Dont crash it 
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Team Losi Racing, Horizon Hobby TLR 22 5.0, TLR 22X-4, TLR 22-4, 22-4 2.0 Atomic Carbon S2, S44, Vega B4.1 Trader feedback: http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19374
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#8
08-07-2012
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Try the newest version of the front chassis parts: http://www.eurorc.com/product/2266/t...-mount-updated
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#9
08-07-2012
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It all depends on what track you race on, indoors I have broke 2/3 in one night before. Only broke one outdoor trying to clear a load of jumps.
There is defiantly a issue with the bottom kick piece, as I've seen then brake just landing off jumps. Lee try adding some fibre tape along the bottom of the kick piece, one thing I noticed is indoor with running the car lower the front actually rubs more causing wear on the kick up making it thinner. Obviously if you clout something it will still brake. Worth a try......or stop hitting things 
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PR Racing - Insideline Racing - Zen Racing - GForce - PureRC - Puppy Paint
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#10
08-07-2012
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I broke 3 (!!!) of those pieces.
But I must say, its my own fault. Trying to clear jumps on a 1/8 track (which I easily clear with my 1/8 buggy on 4s lipo) with a 1/10 2wd SC truck. I now have bought the new parts and hope that they will last!
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#12
08-07-2012
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in the 3 Ansmann buggies i've had i've only ever broken 1 kickplate, when i accidentally drove the car at full speed into a wall.
The reason the plate broke is because it had the 2 striped kicker, where newer ones are a block that goes under the hinge pin holder. It may be a daft idea, but download the mad-rat manual & see if the part number for the kicker plate is different to the one in the x2c manual.. many parts numbers on the X pro cars & those on the standard rat / monkey / macnum etc family series are different although the parts are compatible.. the rat parts should be softer than the X2c / X car parts so should have some degree of flex to counter knocks better.
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Ansmann Racing
Linear Mode
