Binding wheels

[Hpi_guy]

Anyone experienced problems with the front wheels binding and not spinning? On the x2

[budgio]

Yes
i use the Ansmann upgrade alloy hexes , problem solved
Kyosho slim hexes also work a treat.

[Hpi_guy]

Alright, cheers

[Smurfster]

I always struggled getting mine in the box, so currently using mi4 slim hexes, brings the width inside brca regs, and also solves the binding issue. Hope this helps.

[adon30]

Are they binding on the hub? Try using some shims as that is what I have with alloy hexes. Still fits in box fine.

[Hpi_guy]

It's binding on the hub and when tight the wheel won't spin freely I have to back it off by half a turn until it spins

[JezT]

As budgio says - Allloy Hexs are the cure (no shims) - the nut locks the wheel against the pin.... not the hub.

[MikePimlott]

Originally Posted by Smurfster

I always struggled getting mine in the box, so currently using mi4 slim hexes, brings the width inside brca regs, and also solves the binding issue. Hope this helps.

Also kyosho front rims have a slightly narrower offset and enable fitment into the box with ease (oooo errrrr)

Pretty sure i ran like this at nationals. With the green alloy hexes and kyosho front rims

[JezT]

BTW - I heard HPI Blitz C blocks, hubs and axles are a straight fit and 5mm (per side) narrower - will test when I get a chance,

[Hpi_guy]

Cheers jez, it may become a Mad ese hybrid then

[metalmickey0]

Originally Posted by JezT

BTW - I heard HPI Blitz C blocks, hubs and axles are a straight fit and 5mm (per side) narrower - will test when I get a chance,

Thats a great big YES they do as i got them on mine.
The only thing you need to do is adjust the top turnbuckle slightly to bring the camber back inline. You can also use the ones from the truck versions. As they the same parts. Which is what mine are. Got the same parts on my Chunk too which was borrowed from before i bought more.

[Mad-Wolfie]

i'm running the X4 alloy hex's on the fronts & the car goes in the box nice... i'm considering using some 8th clutch shims or some of those thin domed washers (usually seen on 1:12th diffs) though to push the wheels out a smidge as i sometimes have to loosen the wheel nut a tad so it spins free

[George]

Hi,

I've just got some of the alloy hexes to replace the standard plastic ones but I cannot get them to fit properly at the front or the rear. I know they are fitted the opposite way round to the plastic ones, but the spacer for the bearing won't fit over the stub axle. Do you have to drill them out before they will fit? I got them from JE Spares, part number is 125000997, are these the right ones?

Thanks,
George

[Moose]

this are the x4 ones. The X2 ones look a bit different.

Team C part TU0225 are for the 2WD car. I have them but only three fit nice so I am not sure if I would recommand them.
Best solution would be crush tubes. Somebody wrote one inner ball bearing ring would do the job, not tried jet.

[budgio]

http://www.tcmodels.net/index.php?pa...mart&Itemid=71

[George]

Cheers guys, I'll get a set of the right ones and see how I get on. I have also shimmed the stub axle in between the outer bearing and the pin which seems to have resolved the issue but this now leaves me with the width problem instead!!

I'm running narrowed wheels with slim staggers and it is still measuring about 255mm. Are these hexes likely to fix that too?

Sorry for all the questions, I'm pretty new to RC in general but have done a bit of touring car racing and am looking to start off road as well.

Thanks,
George

[pro4nut]

With the ally hex anything 4mm thick or less is ok

A big issue with the binding actually comes from the stupidly large c lip on the back, as you tighten the nut you pull this onto the rear face of the inner bearing and jam it up tight as it touches both the inner and outer races of the bearing. I would recommend a number of shims between the c clip and the bearing to stop this happening.