TLR 22 Build and Set-ups

[Razer]

Originally Posted by Gnarly Old Dog

I believe the difference is about 1mm.

How it felt on the track was that the HRC car felt less likely to dump itself over on the outer wheel at high speed on the limit - the EPR raceway corner best illustrated this - with the HRC block, the car would drive into the corner and you could power through but with the LRC block, you had to be more cautious else it would dump the rear end part way through the corner when it tried to break away.
Not on every lap but enough to make you feel a little less committed as you approached it for the next lap.

I believe the LRC blocks will grip harder initially but the HRC block tends to make the car more consistent - possibly with a little less grip overall.

A higher roll center mount will make the rear end roll less, add more pressure to the wheel instead of the suspension absorbing all force. On a high grip surface that means initial response is very good, and the grip could feel better until the point where it will snap away a bit easier than a low roll center that has a bit more give, and should be smoother.

When it's only talk of 1mm, it's less than what we modded on the CR. When you wrote high and low, I was thinking something like on the XXX-S touring car, where it was 3-4mm difference between the high and low; VEEEERY noticeable that one...

Regarding that last point, I don't think the LRC will grip harder, but the rear end should feel a bit softer, and roll deeper.

But then again, you're the one who's actually tested this stuff

[Gnarly Old Dog]

Hey Martin, you've got me here
I'm just trying to convey what it felt like when I was driving it - your understanding of the dynamics behind it blows me away - respect to you.

All I can say is that it was more consistent - for whatever reason - with the HRC block - but the difference wasn't massive like the XXX-S you mention - but both David and I felt the same and when we went back to the HRC block, things just felt nicer again.
May have been a variety of reasons - but the consensus for us was that consistency was improved with the HRC block.

[Buggy Driver]

Does the kit come with any antisquat shims? Or do you need to get the antisquat set?
And which and how many pistons are included?

As it seems Losi´s own 22 servo saver set was discontinued. Can you use any other external servo saver? Which one is good and will fit?

[Dave Dodd]

Originally Posted by reg

i might be running mine in the finals

I take it you've been Losified

[Gnarly Old Dog]

Originally Posted by Buggy Driver

Does the kit come with any antisquat shims? Or do you need to get the antisquat set?
And which and how many pistons are included?

As it seems Losi´s own 22 servo saver set was discontinued. Can you use any other external servo saver? Which one is good and will fit?

You get a full set of 4 hole pistons in the kit - 56, 55 and 54 hole and you get a full anti squat shim kit for the Low Roll Centre blocks. The spare parts are in the F-bag in the kit box I believe - although I haven't yet got that far myself

If you choose to run a HRC block, you will need a corresponding HRC squat shim kit (TLR2045)

As for servo saver, I'm sorry but I don't know what other type would fit. You might get a small kimbro under the bulkhead and you might need to trim the width of the top of the servo saver to get enough clearance with the bulkhead under lock - but this is not something we've tried (sorry)

[pugboy]

Originally Posted by Gnarly Old Dog

You get a full set of 4 hole pistons in the kit - 56, 55 and 54 hole and you get a full anti squat shim kit for the Low Roll Centre blocks. The spare parts are in the F-bag in the kit box I believe - although I haven't yet got that far myself

If you choose to run a HRC block, you will need a corresponding HRC squat shim kit (TLR2045)

As for servo saver, I'm sorry but I don't know what other type would fit. You might get a small kimbro under the bulkhead and you might need to trim the width of the top of the servo saver to get enough clearance with the bulkhead under lock - but this is not something we've tried (sorry)

All looks a bit tight for Kimbro type but there is always the xx4 type, ie bendy servo horn if it is too tight and you want to run something. Funnily enough just saw something on Youtube of one of the US Losi boys pulling out of a race with the 22 because the servo horn stripped...

[frogger]

Any recommendations on a starting point for pinion size for indoor carpet and a Novak Ballistic 6.5 motor?

[Gnarly Old Dog]

Originally Posted by frogger

Any recommendations on a starting point for pinion size for indoor carpet and a Novak Ballistic 6.5 motor?

I would start off with a 19/76 or 20/76 - depending on ESC settings and size of hall

If your ESC can boost timing then you might want to drop even further.

Some motors appear to like being geared higher than others but I think this also has alot to do with the ESC being used. I have no experience with the Novak equipment I'm afraid but the internal ratio of the 22 is 2.43:1 - just like the old XXX-CR - so I would gear it similarly to whatever you would normally run at to achieve the same overall ratio.

[stall4king]

Er!-Remove the protective film from the wing before spraying-it's on the underside of the wing!!-Don't ask how I know this!!Happy building!!

[stall4king]

Er2!!-Window masks must be right first time..If it's peeled off and re-positioned then the 1st spray coat will buckle them..Don't ask how I know this!! Carry on!!

[Delves]

Originally Posted by PaulUpton

My top tip is get someone else to do the turnbuckles or your fingers will hurt Ive stopped at bag c for the night, and still got 2 more cars to build

I agree 100% with you Paul! My fingers are aching from building my wagon today... Just got the shocks to go then an electronics install

[reg]

Originally Posted by Delves

I agree 100% with you Paul! My fingers are aching from building my wagon today... Just got the shocks to go then an electronics install

i used a screw the same size as the turnbuckle and some shock oil to do the normal threadiv only got3 blisters

[reg]

could we have a shock filling prosses and bleeding guide,full rebound half or none.........ppwweeezzzz

[Kit Jones]

If you use a reamer to create a slight taper on the ball cup then it makes building the turnbuckles much easier (and less painful) but sounds like its a bit late now...

[RookieBOB]

Is there any compatibility with other brands, or should i change all my AE wheels ?
Thks !

[Delves]

Originally Posted by Kit Jones

If you use a reamer to create a slight taper on the ball cup then it makes building the turnbuckles much easier (and less painful) but sounds like its a bit late now...

Hi Kit,the advise made it to me through Andy so not too late at all

[Delves]

Originally Posted by RookieBOB

Is there any compatibility with other brands, or should i change all my AE wheels ?
Thks !

As far as I'm aware you will need to swap over to the new TLR wheels as it is all hex drive now rather than pin.

[/tobys]

Do Kyosho wheels fit the 22?

[RookieBOB]

Originally Posted by Delves

As far as I'm aware you will need to swap over to the new TLR wheels as it is all hex drive now rather than pin.

Losi's front wheels seem to be wide...Have you some tips to fit schum staggered on them?

[PaulUpton]

Originally Posted by Delves

I agree 100% with you Paul! My fingers are aching from building my wagon today... Just got the shocks to go then an electronics install

I've had 3 to build, done 2 of them hands are feeling it. Going to get a little mini drill tomorrow, hopefully one the ball joints will fit into swell to screw them onto the turnbuckles