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#1
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Monochrome aerosol jobs post yours!
Wondering if anyone has had any succes spraying their own shells with a one or two colour scheme using just aerosol based paints?
I want to try my hand at some simple one or two colour shells as I'm too scared to bash around in the shell that Jon did for me! I've seen some single solid colour jobs and with the correct finish and some decals they look retty good just wondering what the best technique is without having to buy too much pro gear.
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RC10 B3 Team / Losi XX4 WE (in progress!) Nosram Matrix Evo / Nosram Matrix Reverse LRP Vector X11 10.5t / Nosram Storm 4.5t KO Propo 2343 / KO Propo 2173 Sanwa RX 311 Sanwa Super Exzes Trakpower & Bionic Bantam BC6 |
#2
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Draw it out, get the design firm in your head, work out what will work and what won't ( like small details... ) and then just do it, the drawing will give a good idea but you won't know until you try it on a shell. It is real helpful to have a clear picture of what you're doing though !
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#3
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Here's one i did last year using Tamiya masking tape and Halfords aerosol cans. Just mark on the outside your design, then cut inside and spray.
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#4
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Loving the crisp black lines!
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RC10 B3 Team / Losi XX4 WE (in progress!) Nosram Matrix Evo / Nosram Matrix Reverse LRP Vector X11 10.5t / Nosram Storm 4.5t KO Propo 2343 / KO Propo 2173 Sanwa RX 311 Sanwa Super Exzes Trakpower & Bionic Bantam BC6 |
#5
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You can do allsorts of nice paint jobs using spray cans your imagination is the limit, the tricky bit is not hammering onto much paint so you cant see the rest of the design and obviously shadows would be a touch tricky .
I used to measure the size of the area i was painting, draw the design out on card and cut out as a stencils, laydown some wide masking tape (ovelap if neede be) on a cutting board, draw around the stencil. but it is also more costly to buy loads of cans at £5 ish per can, I would normally do 3 colour max with cans. 2 main colours and a dividing colour. Good luck |
#6
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Just go the whole hog and buy an airbrush, you know you want to, go on, just one try you won't get addicted, none of the rest of us have
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#7
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I do all mine using rattle cans. Tamiya white and gunmetal and fastrax chrome
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Mark Dyson Clown |
#8
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my gosh mark that is sublime
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RC10 B3 Team / Losi XX4 WE (in progress!) Nosram Matrix Evo / Nosram Matrix Reverse LRP Vector X11 10.5t / Nosram Storm 4.5t KO Propo 2343 / KO Propo 2173 Sanwa RX 311 Sanwa Super Exzes Trakpower & Bionic Bantam BC6 |
#9
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if i dont have film on the outside of the shell do i need to liquid mask it to prevent overspray. what markers do i used to ensure i can get it off!
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RC10 B3 Team / Losi XX4 WE (in progress!) Nosram Matrix Evo / Nosram Matrix Reverse LRP Vector X11 10.5t / Nosram Storm 4.5t KO Propo 2343 / KO Propo 2173 Sanwa RX 311 Sanwa Super Exzes Trakpower & Bionic Bantam BC6 |
#10
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If you dont have film for the outside, just use cling-film. As for markers, i just use a small black felt tip pen.
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#11
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cheers and to mask windows etc does tape leave clean enough finish or liquid mask better
to be honest im not going to take this up big time but want to do 2 or 3 of my own but not have to fork out wedge on pro stuff
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RC10 B3 Team / Losi XX4 WE (in progress!) Nosram Matrix Evo / Nosram Matrix Reverse LRP Vector X11 10.5t / Nosram Storm 4.5t KO Propo 2343 / KO Propo 2173 Sanwa RX 311 Sanwa Super Exzes Trakpower & Bionic Bantam BC6 |
#12
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Masking tape is ok but it doesn't leave no where near as crisp and clean lines as liquid mask.
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#13
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Thanks . I use Tamiya masking tape for straight edges and Parma uncut vinyl mask sheet (PAR10799) for curved ones and to cover large areas I use Copydex. For anyone that doesn't know, Copydex is a liquid latex fabric adheasive that you brush on and it dries clear(ish). Ive not seen anyone else use Copydex apart from me but its great for covering large areas and the outside of shells that don't have protection film. The only problem is you cant cut it easily so its best to use masking tape for the edges then just fill inbeteen. When you need to remove it it comes off in one neat sheet with no resedue, and its cheap
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Mark Dyson Clown |
#14
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if you dont want to use liquid mask, try 3m fine line tape, its what we use on full size stuff for lining out stripe work, masking tape the paint tends to seep under the edges, unless you cut it with a sharp blade
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#15
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The Tamiya masking tape is super cool though, from Japan and the best I've ever used. 3mm Fine line tape is okay for bigger stuff but you can't get the curves on these little shells so I use much thinner paper tape, I think they sell it down to 1mm in size so ideal for getting stupidly thin lines I get it from here You won't get a super crisp line with it, liquid mask is still the best stuff for that. Tamiya tape should see you well though, I've seen painters cover whole crash helmets in that stuff and draw on it and then cut the design out.
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#16
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depending on time and skill/ application/job in hand etc etc..... liquid mask you can be a bit more brutal with paint thicknis application whereas tape you need to layer more gradually.
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#17
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The first (and only one) I've ever done:
Tamiya rattle cans and liquid mask.
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#18
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more simple designs are stupidly sped p by tape etc though.
so all in all, depends on the job in hand and whether for you or others etc |
#19
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sorry, keyboard acting up....
or is it the buckfast??? |
#20
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this is my last rattle can paint job, fair does its not a 2 color paint job but i was happy with it.
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