TLR 22 dif probs

[Pip Squeak]

Looks like Ive wasted my money buying this car

[millser]

Originally Posted by Pip Squeak

Looks like Ive wasted my money buying this car

HAHAHAHAHAHA

[Chris56]

Originally Posted by Pip Squeak

Looks like Ive wasted my money buying this car

The car itself is great, only the diff is its Achilles heel.

If you haven't built the car yet, it might be worth getting some ceramic balls for the diff before you get to that bit

[slow bob]

i think wasted your money is abit of an overreaction the only problem on the entire car is with the diff and its not exactly expensive or hard to fix

I still think for the cash its the best 2wd out there .

[lynx75]

Originally Posted by steveproracing

As a fix for the dodgy nut holder u have several solutions that work
1. Put the nut in the holder then drip superglue in the nut end and let it set before rebuilding diff
2 use a tamiya nut and diff holder. (they are an exact fit!)

3. Use an associated diff screw and 1 piece nut/holder. This is also a perfect fit. The thread is not the same as losi which is why u need the screw as well.
The screw is a little longer so u get a more progressive adjustment range. However it is not too long that it impinges any driveshft travel in the outdrives

Number 3 IMO is the best fix. And a permanent one that is much cheaper than paying £10-15 for an alloy nut holder!!

Thank you for that.

Could you let me know the part code for the tamiya nut and diff holder, please?

Thanks.

[kinggareth]

Originally Posted by slow bob

I have also found the plastic nut holder the main diff bolt goes through rounds out letting the nut spin. I thought I had rounded out the hex head at first ...

I've had this happen and have spent 10 minutes trying to get the screw back out so that i can replace the nut and nut holder but just can't get any purchase on the nut to stop it spinning. How have you guys got your diff back apart - because I don't want to be spending out on on new outdrives just because of a stupid nut holder!

[slow bob]

if you have a small flat head screwdriver you can force it down the side of the diff nut this will stop it spinning enough to get the screw out ..

[sly]

Originally Posted by pugboy

Si

Are you still on the standard diff and thrust balls then? Ran mine at Southport Sunday and all was good out on track but the diff does feel a bit rough..

Cheers

I have put all ceramic balls in and glues the rings to the outdrive to try and stop them from spining.
Garden test is ok but the true test is on our track on Sunday.

[pugboy]

Originally Posted by sly

I have put all ceramic balls in and glues the rings to the outdrive to try and stop them from spining.
Garden test is ok but the true test is on our track on Sunday.

I'll hope mine stays ok for the regional but then I think I'll have to go down the ceramic route as it isn't gonna get any better.

regarding gluing rings to outdrives, I don't know why they did away with the old Losi system with the flat on the inside of the diff ring and matching flat on outdrive, much better IMO.

[Delves]

Ive just rebuilt my diff after destroying it at the weekend. Things that I did differently;

1) I used Tamiya Hard Damper grease on the back of the diff plates to stop the plate from slipping (I always used this grease when building my TC Tamiya diffs to stop the plates slipping on the diff halves... got this tip of Hupo when he was driving for Tam a few years back).

2) I have used a whole world of black grease on the thrust, and then again a load of clear grease in the diff.

3) Ran the diff in at low speed (for around 5-8 mins) and slowly tightened it up till it was as tight

I have kept everything standard, so no ceramic balls! But after all that the diff feels good on the bench, but the test will be after the first practice on Sunday. Just thought I would share this and hope the info comes in handy... will report back after sunday to let you guys know if the diff held up better than before

[slow bob]

So do we think this a flaw in the quality and as such should we all get a free set of the upgraded balls from the shop we puchased the kit from ??

i know the same happened with the cougar gearbox ect and we all got a free upgrade from shuey ..

[Spencer Mulcahy]

Not to bothered about the diff balls it's the nut that is pissing me off I have gone through three now so I have ordered the associated ones I hope that sorts it. Other than the diff the car is ace.

[Legacy555]

Ceramic balls and Associated Black Grease have been necessary in the Losi cars since the XX. I wouldn't get too worried about it if you never noticed the problem in the older cars.

I personally prefered the keyed diff rings in the XX. I copied the traxxas TRX-1 build and glued mine down for years. Recently I've reverted to running a file around the outdrive and diff ring - seems to work fine.

[coleman758]

Originally Posted by Spencer Mulcahy

Not to bothered about the diff balls it's the nut that is pissing me off I have gone through three now so I have ordered the associated ones I hope that sorts it. Other than the diff the car is ace.

Make sure you get the bolt also, as the AE nuts are imperial (Correct me if i'm wrong!)

[Muggydude]

So is the spring the problem too? or will new balls, the ae nut/screw, and sand rings do the trick?

What is a better greaser to put under the rings on the outdrives?

AE Black Grease
AE Clear Grease
BFAST Clear Grease
TLR Black Grease (from the kit)
TLR Clear Grease (from the kit)

And out of those which do you guys think is the best stuff to use while building the diff.

[chris_dono]

I took my diff out and used ceramic balls this time round, seems to be ncie and free regardless of how tight I set it now

One quick thing though, is there a trick to getting access to the diff without taking the whole rear end apart ?

[ianhaye]

Originally Posted by chris_dono

One quick thing though, is there a trick to getting access to the diff without taking the whole rear end apart ?

yep if you pop one of the ball cups off on the rear link that alows you to move the wheel back and driveshaft out to give you access to the allen key to adjust the diff, just rem witch side you put the allenkey side as you cant do it from the nut side ;-)

[bigred5765]

Originally Posted by Spencer Mulcahy

Not to bothered about the diff balls it's the nut that is pissing me off I have gone through three now so I have ordered the associated ones I hope that sorts it. Other than the diff the car is ace.

Spence Ive built a few now not spun a single nut, may be you've got a cocker hand are just ripping them apart lol,
no i would just glue it in with super glue, thats all i did,and not had one complaint yet lol tempting fate yeah I'm sure

[reg]

i found it better if you crush the spring before you fit it and just run the bolt through the nut before you put it in the diff

[chris_dono]

Originally Posted by ianhaye

yep if you pop one of the ball cups off on the rear link that alows you to move the wheel back and driveshaft out to give you access to the allen key to adjust the diff, just rem witch side you put the allenkey side as you cant do it from the nut side ;-)

sorry, me not being clear there hehe

I meant to get the diff out for a rebuild