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  #21  
Old 08-08-2013
Flauschi215 Flauschi215 is offline
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the new cab forward body
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  #22  
Old 08-08-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diago999 View Post
Delves, what does the tiny little grub screw (TLR6289) that goes into the aluminum front pivot block on page 17 do?

also congratulations on the new layout, (rear motor and then mid motor) much easier to read through

Question, can anyone see any issues with using saddles side by side with this new motor brace/battery compartment/flap bit and just using some foam to pad out the end, or modifying it so the post is moved closer?
This screw holds the block in position when you take the gearbox out. With the current car when you remove the gearbox in mid configuration the front suspension carrier moves about and inevitably the wishbones pop out. So this screw will eliminate that happening. Not performance enhancing but certainly makes working on the car easier.
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  #23  
Old 08-08-2013
vrooom vrooom is offline
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Look good but i like some part of it...

those ackerman steering rank look strange, it not adjustable for toward to front suspesion but toward to rear of car? it going to be strange. unless im missing something.

Im using exotek steering rank and this has changed my car big time.

I like those slipper clutch and new revised rear brace on mid motor

good jobs losi 22 team!
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  #24  
Old 08-08-2013
Flauschi215 Flauschi215 is offline
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http://www.horizonhobby.co.uk/autoon...html#medialink
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  #25  
Old 08-08-2013
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looking through the 2.0 manual

looking like ill need to buy the 2.0 mid motor rear chassis brace (as oppsoed to the TLR4162 Rear Chassis Brace - mid motor from the v1.0) as the new type have the hinges on for the new type esc/battery strap/flap

so hopefully these parts should be able to be bought separatly...

it should slot right into the v1.0 chassis...hopefully
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  #26  
Old 08-08-2013
diago999 diago999 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delves View Post
This screw holds the block in position when you take the gearbox out. With the current car when you remove the gearbox in mid configuration the front suspension carrier moves about and inevitably the wishbones pop out. So this screw will eliminate that happening. Not performance enhancing but certainly makes working on the car easier.
I think you misunderstood what I meant,

but I figured it out anyway, its for the new hingepins that hold the front suspension on, there's a corresponding groove which must relate to the grub screw position to stop the hingepins falling out
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  #27  
Old 08-08-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diago999 View Post
I think you misunderstood what I meant,

but I figured it out anyway, its for the new hingepins that hold the front suspension on, there's a corresponding groove which must relate to the grub screw position to stop the hingepins falling out
They have always been on 22 models, on plastic blocks too
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  #28  
Old 08-08-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frecklychimp View Post
They have always been on 22 models, on plastic blocks too
Don't I feel like a retard
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  #29  
Old 08-08-2013
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Origineelreclamebord Origineelreclamebord is offline
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Sounds and looks good - it's not that different, but to be fair the 22 didn't need a revolution... Some may not like the motor position in mid-motor, or it's sliding steering rack, but I think these are two features that characterize the car - I'm happy to see the car still has these and I think the tweaked steering rack may be an indication TLR team drivers have still found a sliding rack better than a bellcrank one with the right adjustments...

The car forward shell is really bad though: They must've been inspired by the bonnet of a car after a collision with a wall... Neither are a pretty sight!
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  #30  
Old 08-08-2013
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http://youtu.be/u1UH-oOUUtM. Good video about the car even if alittle long
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  #31  
Old 08-08-2013
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my only gripe with the car is the electronics placement
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  #32  
Old 08-08-2013
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A couple of thoughts,

How hard and how much do you think it will cost to convert an original 22, not completely, but with some of the nicer features. like the front end geometry and steering. not too bothered about the chassis changers and bleeder shocks.

And does anybody else think the new slipper is a little OTT, kind of like it was designed with a 4wd platform in mind!!
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  #33  
Old 08-08-2013
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you can just look up all the part numbers you want in the manual and check the local dealer. Our dealer already has all the parts in his list with prices.
Whats special about the slipper? Its just a copy of the old associated 2wd slipper and slipper pads. Dont see why this is a 4WD part...
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  #34  
Old 08-08-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Fly View Post
A couple of thoughts,

How hard and how much do you think it will cost to convert an original 22, not completely, but with some of the nicer features. like the front end geometry and steering. not too bothered about the chassis changers and bleeder shocks.

And does anybody else think the new slipper is a little OTT, kind of like it was designed with a 4wd platform in mind!!
I have the same idea...don't want to get a new kit, just some of the parts to upgrade it to a near enough 2.0

How much do you think it would be?
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  #35  
Old 08-08-2013
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Looks great mine is on order !!
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  #36  
Old 09-08-2013
Flauschi215 Flauschi215 is offline
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The New Steering Rack with Ackermann Adjustment


Dustin´s Steering Rack @ROAR Nats
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  #37  
Old 09-08-2013
Dr Fly Dr Fly is offline
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I am completely missing something here, The new steering rack the steering turnbuckle balljoint faces backwards, as in the thread is towards the front of the car. But in the picture of Dustins car the balljoint is facing forwards, with some sort of bell assembly, is this the expensive third party steering? Becasue it definatly aint the new one from the v2

Also Dustins car has the Velcro battery straps and not the new plastic holder.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flauschi215 View Post
The New Steering Rack with Ackermann Adjustment


Dustin´s Steering Rack @ROAR Nats
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  #38  
Old 09-08-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Fly View Post
I am completely missing something here, The new steering rack the steering turnbuckle balljoint faces backwards, as in the thread is towards the front of the car. But in the picture of Dustins car the balljoint is facing forwards, with some sort of bell assembly, is this the expensive third party steering? Becasue it definatly aint the new one from the v2

Also Dustins car has the Velcro battery straps and not the new plastic holder.
You didn't miss anything,but whatever steering rack Dustin is running you can see it's not the "expensive third party steering" as you can see (BELOW) it's plastic instead of alloy.

According to Todd Hodge - "Now onto the rack versus the bell cranks. During our initial testing we found that the rack was fine. It gave the appropriate Ackerman we were looking for, which is why we included it on the 22 2.0. After the worlds warmup we tested bell cranks, which actually give the car less Ackerman. Less Ackerman is when the outside turning tire turns close to the same rate as the inside tire. More Ackerman is when the inside tire turns at a faster rate than the outside. Less Ackerman actually gives the car a better balance on high grip tracks, such as the worlds track we are racing on this weekend. When I say better balance I mean that the less Ackerman actually gives us less steering compared to the rack. Now on lower bite tracks the rack will most likely be better because it will provide more steering. We discovered all of this entirely too late in the project and couldn't design, tool and include it in the vehicle quick enough. We are looking at the design right now and will start soon. We are still learning about this and collecting data on the 22 2.0."

As you noted, Dustin's car also has the velcro batter strap - along with the original battery stop. He's also got the gen-1 chassis, as you can see there's no milling of the servo mount area to get the servo lower in the chassis like in the 2.0
According to the U.S. forums the team drivers have just been updating their original cars with updated parts as they've become available, and word has it that he was satisfied with the older battery straps and/or hadn't received the updated parts in time and/or didn't feel comfortable using them for the ROAR Nats this week. He has been using the new cab-forward body and new rear-end geometry (3-hole shock tower and rear arms, driveshafts/axles).

The 2.0 also include adjustable off-set rear axle where the axle can be mounted 1mm further into the rear hubs, which causes a less supported rear end and increased forward drive out of turns. For higher grip surfaces, a 1mm spacer is included in the kit to allow the axle to be mounting in the same location as the original 22 for a more supported rear end feel which is also the kit setup.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg AT4_5126-L.jpg (133.9 KB, 54 views)
File Type: jpg twentytwo 2.0 (17).jpg (93.8 KB, 50 views)
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  #39  
Old 09-08-2013
Robby Robby is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Fly View Post
A couple of thoughts,

How hard and how much do you think it will cost to convert an original 22, not completely, but with some of the nicer features. like the front end geometry and steering. not too bothered about the chassis changers and bleeder shocks.

And does anybody else think the new slipper is a little OTT, kind of like it was designed with a 4wd platform in mind!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cremegg View Post
I have the same idea...don't want to get a new kit, just some of the parts to upgrade it to a near enough 2.0

How much do you think it would be?

Here's two 1.0 - 2.0 updates lists I've found - the first being everything (thereby showing it's cheaper just to buy the kit), and the second being just the geometry changed items (what most are probably looking for).
- U.S. Dollar prices, so take exchange rate into consideration -
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 22 2.0 Update List (1).jpg (313.5 KB, 61 views)
File Type: jpg 22 2.0 Update List geometry only.jpg (124.3 KB, 70 views)
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  #40  
Old 10-08-2013
Dr Fly Dr Fly is offline
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One final thought then i promise i will stop asking questions. In the video they talk about a new post-heat treating machined outdrive with flatter surface. However looking at the part number in the instruction manual (TLR2955), it is the same as the original. Any thoughts on this?
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