Yokomo Bmax2 M

[BazzerH]

Ok ill try that. Bit worried that grease would just attract dirt and sand etc so have been running the joints dry.

another question. .

i run shorty packs sideways and the 2 types I own are both a tight fit. Wondering whether to carry on running like that or shave a half mil from both side pods?

[Paultje040]

I milled out just enough to make the shorty fit.

I run to different brands and both needed some more room to fit nicely.
Turnigy and GensAce.

I run astro only, if you run loose dirt, try to minimize the use of grease. I'm not a fan of running these parts dry, moving parts wear fast when they get warm.

[janus_77]

Originally Posted by BazzerH

Ok ill try that. Bit worried that grease would just attract dirt and sand etc so have been running the joints dry.

I also thought it was a stupid idea, and true the area around the outdrive looks horrible after a day of driving. But the moving parts stay clean

[minty]

Hi, i think im going to purchase the Bmax2 MR Ver3 and ive just got a few questions.

Does the ver 3 kit come with metal gear diff internals and metal idler gears?

Also are there any upgrades that anyone feels are needed?

Has anyone found any parts to be particularly weak so i can order a few spares at the same time if needed?

Thanks

[dpackster1980]

You'll need nothing extra to make it stronger but I would buy the alloy bulkhead and the brass insert just as a tuning option.

It comes with a gear diff but personally I can't get away with it anywhere so I stick with the ball diff.

I have only broke a rear wishbone but was down to the type of track marking.

[minty]

Originally Posted by dpackster1980

You'll need nothing extra to make it stronger but I would buy the alloy bulkhead and the brass insert just as a tuning option.

It comes with a gear diff but personally I can't get away with it anywhere so I stick with the ball diff.

I have only broke a rear wishbone but was down to the type of track marking.

Cool thanks, I'll look into getting a ball diff as well

Do you know if the gear diff internals and idlers with the v3 are metal or plastic?

[minty]

Originally Posted by minty

Cool thanks, I'll look into getting a ball diff as well

Do you know if the gear diff internals and idlers with the v3 are metal or plastic?

Just looked on cml and it says the kit does come with the metal gears so nevermind

[dpackster1980]

Metal diff gears and gearbox internals.

[minty]

Originally Posted by dpackster1980

Metal diff gears and gearbox internals.

[neallewis]

Metal internals, buy you know that now. I find the ball diff lasts about one run on RHR astro before it feels like shite or starts slipping and needs tightening. The ball diff runs perfect on low traction tracks, but the astro kills it quickly. I find for astro the gear diff with 5k oil is perfect. I found with 3k you get the unloaded wheel spinning up a bit more, and lower than 3k is just silly, don't do it. I've also tried 7k, but went back to 5k. Not the oil, but the car was off that day, so I just went back to my previous setup.

Breakages. The car is really solid. I've done a few ball ends, on the rear when running long links. I went with a longer turnbuckle which helps stop them breaking. If you have the kit plastic rear hubs, get some spares, I've known them break. I've always had the alloy ones.
I've done one front wishbone, but it had taken some beating to get to that point. I've broken a top upper nose plate after a roll it cracked. I completed the day though with it cracked. I've also broken the front lower nose plate, where the steering cranks screw in. You won't have that problem with the full alloy chassis.

Extras and bling.
B4-415R00 - Aluminum rear hub carrier (Toe-in 0°) for B-MAX2/4: http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...-b-max2-4.html

Front alloy bulkhead with brass insert/ or the steel bulkhead or brass if you plan to run the shorty lipo down the centre as Lee Martin does now.
B2-300FLA - B-MAX2MR/RS Front lower suspension mount: http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...ion-mount.html
B2-300FLAW - Yokomo Europe 11g Brass Weights for B2-300FLA: http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...b2-300fla.html
B2-300FLB - Brass 50g front lower suspension mount (standard): http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...-standard.html
B2-300FLS - 45.8g Front Lower Suspension Mount (Steel): http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...unt-steel.html


Front upper mount: http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...arm-mount.html

B2-201BA - Aluminum steering bell crank
http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...max2mr-rs.html

This is a none essential nice to have:
B2-118MA - B-MAX2MR Graphite battery holder http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...ry-holder.html

I like this:
B2-118BW - Yokomo Europe 50g Under Battery Weight:
http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...ry-weight.html

The new Yataba Arena springs are the ones to go for for astro/indoor:
http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...ult/?q=+Yataba


If you are stating with new wheels, you may want to consider going for the hex conversion, as surely any future car will run the same 12mm hex wheels:
B2-HCOV - HEX Wheel Hub Conversion Kit: http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...rsion-kit.html

There are lots of new lightening bits out now, which may help if that's your thing.

Alloy idler gears... I found they wear and get noisy, so went back to plastic. Check the topshaft outer bearing regularly and they last well. Leave it and you may find you kill an idler gear.

Hope that helps, it's a great car.

[PJC]

The only other things I can think of is running the BMAX4 rear arms and I use the Team C idlers which are working well. Both have threads on oople.

[minty]

Originally Posted by neallewis

Metal internals, buy you know that now. I find the ball diff lasts about one run on RHR astro before it feels like shite or starts slipping and needs tightening. The ball diff runs perfect on low traction tracks, but the astro kills it quickly. I find for astro the gear diff with 5k oil is perfect. I found with 3k you get the unloaded wheel spinning up a bit more, and lower than 3k is just silly, don't do it. I've also tried 7k, but went back to 5k. Not the oil, but the car was off that day, so I just went back to my previous setup.

Breakages. The car is really solid. I've done a few ball ends, on the rear when running long links. I went with a longer turnbuckle which helps stop them breaking. If you have the kit plastic rear hubs, get some spares, I've known them break. I've always had the alloy ones.
I've done one front wishbone, but it had taken some beating to get to that point. I've broken a top upper nose plate after a roll it cracked. I completed the day though with it cracked. I've also broken the front lower nose plate, where the steering cranks screw in. You won't have that problem with the full alloy chassis.

Extras and bling.
B4-415R00 - Aluminum rear hub carrier (Toe-in 0°) for B-MAX2/4: http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...-b-max2-4.html

Front alloy bulkhead with brass insert/ or the steel bulkhead or brass if you plan to run the shorty lipo down the centre as Lee Martin does now.
B2-300FLA - B-MAX2MR/RS Front lower suspension mount: http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...ion-mount.html
B2-300FLAW - Yokomo Europe 11g Brass Weights for B2-300FLA: http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...b2-300fla.html
B2-300FLB - Brass 50g front lower suspension mount (standard): http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...-standard.html
B2-300FLS - 45.8g Front Lower Suspension Mount (Steel): http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...unt-steel.html


Front upper mount: http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...arm-mount.html

B2-201BA - Aluminum steering bell crank
http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...max2mr-rs.html

This is a none essential nice to have:
B2-118MA - B-MAX2MR Graphite battery holder http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...ry-holder.html

I like this:
B2-118BW - Yokomo Europe 50g Under Battery Weight:
http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...ry-weight.html

The new Yataba Arena springs are the ones to go for for astro/indoor:
http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...ult/?q=+Yataba


If you are stating with new wheels, you may want to consider going for the hex conversion, as surely any future car will run the same 12mm hex wheels:
B2-HCOV - HEX Wheel Hub Conversion Kit: http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...rsion-kit.html

There are lots of new lightening bits out now, which may help if that's your thing.

Alloy idler gears... I found they wear and get noisy, so went back to plastic. Check the topshaft outer bearing regularly and they last well. Leave it and you may find you kill an idler gear.

Hope that helps, it's a great car.

Cheers, plenty of good info there.

Originally Posted by PJC

The only other things I can think of is running the BMAX4 rear arms and I use the Team C idlers which are working well. Both have threads on oople.

Ive got a set of the bmax4 II arms already as i was going to try them on my bmax 4 III, but the car has been great already so i haven't had to use them yet. Thanks for the heads up on the team c idlers

[skyaflake]

Personally I've got no problems with the sound the alu idlers produce

But, for the rest, Neal's post is spot on.

[minty]

Kit ordered! (with a couple of extra blingy bits )

[mes]

Congrats, I am sure you'll enjoy it! I am not sure if the titanium turnbuckles and aluminum shock caps were mentioned; those are nice to have, too. Check out if the 1.6x2 and 1.7x2 shock pistons are included, you'll want to have these.

I've been running the B-Max2 since day one, converted it to MR and V2.5 standard, and I still love it. I hope I won't regret giving the VBC Racing Firebolt DM a try, but after running the Max for about three seasons, it is time for something new.

[minty]

almost done

[neallewis]

Originally Posted by minty

almost done

Looking good!

[ReneT]

I think too that the the alu idlers turn noisy quite quick.

If you do run aluminium idlers make sure that when you rebuild your gerbox, you put them the same way back in. Keep the one closest to the topshaft at that spot, same with the one closest to the diff. Also keep left and right orientation the same. They wear less like that.

Having said that, I run topshaft-plastic-alu-diff since a while.

[MoMo_Fr]

Hello all,

I will have to change my batteries. What is the best configuration: shorty or saddle ??? I will principaly turn on astroturf with midship motor.

Thanks for your response ..

[PJC]

I swapped from Saddles to a Shorty. I notice the car was better, I then switched the Shorty to run along the chassis instead of across, and it was better again. I did buy a bit of brass plate off ebay and cut it to size to put under the lipo, about 45g I think.