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#1
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First few weeks ... some Questions
Hi
I'm fairly new to durango. I bought a dex410 about a month ago and it has been up and running for a few weeks now. And there are some questions i could not answer by just lurking around in the forum. So i'm gona address them in a new thread.
lots of questions i hope you guys can help me answer a few of them, thx snook |
#2
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Uneven tyre where could be your set up, or the way you drive. Poping ball joints is a known problem I belive losi ball cups with hpi studs is the favoured upgrade.
Servo saver was probably too tight, change to ally parts break the horn or strip the gears. Spur gear wobble is fine, escentric movement is not!! |
#3
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Quote:
im trying to drive as smooth as i can, i still need to get used to the car. Quote:
Quote:
hmm i guess il have to get a replacement then... |
#4
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if your running m4 tires don't expect them to last long.. astro has massive grip and you'll do nothing but run those down. may consider running harder compound (m3).
in 4wd the fronts will wear a faster rate, regardless of the brand. the contact patch is smaller, and they recieve the same amount of drive, and they take friction of the turns (increasing wear)
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2WD Kyosho RB6 |
#5
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front tyres wearing faster. does the car push a lot during corner ie. understeer heavily?
can't say I've ever had a ball joint pop off in 8 months of ownership. I may change mine to purely remove the play. I've had the plastic servo arm on mine since I built the car. I only replaced it for the red alloy one because I'm a tart |
#6
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M4 vs. M3 compound:
i was just surprised how much difference it was, front tires no more tread at all and the rears barley had wear at all. just the most inner pins of the rears had suffered a wee bit. Quote:
hmm maybe it was a faulty plastic part, cant rly tell. |
#7
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I too notice the front tires wearing faster than the rear. This seems track dependent to me, because it doesn't always happen.
The first thing I replace on my kit were the ball cups. I really hated how they would pop off just from adjustment. I replaced the servo horn and servo saver with aluminum parts. The kit plastic is not very strong. My general rule of thumb is, if they make an aluminum aftermarket part, get it, because the plastic part will break at some point. |
#8
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Snook, let me tell ya what many of us here in the "colonies" like to do to our rangos to make em bulletproof. We use aluminum front pivot blocks with metal inserts to match. Metal crunch spacers for the hubs. Aluminum servo saver, servo horn, and rear diff loop. And if you don't want your ball cups to pop off every time you adust them you can replace them as well. I'm using Team Associated TC5 "metric" ball studs and cups. I have had no problems with my since I broke a plastic diff loop just after buying it. My slipper was too tight. I should mention that I'm still using the plastic diff loop. I will eventually replace it with a Tresrey aluminum one when I get around to it. Good luck.
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#9
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The Treshey red diff holder is slightly lower than the kit one. I had a boot on my centre shaft to keep the dirt out of the grease and after fitting the red one the boot was rubbing on the lipo. I fitted 2 washers and it sorted it out no problem.
could be related to the 23/25mm lipo height although it does have double holes on it. it appears more of the diff height rather than lipo height. oh well. |
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