TRF Dampers for the Durga

[CAClark]

Hey guys, yet again I am stumped by what is I'm sure something quite obvious

I have a set of aeration dampers, but the instructions have got me stumped. Building the pistons and rods was fine, but cylinder end where the little red o-rings go has got me, because the instructions show a red o-ring, then a black spacer, then 2 4x0.1 shims, another black spacer, and then another o-ring. That means I should have 8 of those there shims, but there are not 8 of any component other then the black spacers. I have 4 white nylon spacers, and 5 metal shims (which are used to assemble the pistons as far as I made out).

This then compounded by there being upper and lower rod guides... the upper being shown sandwiched above the cylinder end ( the bottom seal cartridge bit), but the lower one seems to be shown effectively in the same place.

I'm sure it's not supposed to be difficult, and I am probably being dim, but some help would be well appreciated about now.

[jimmy]

Hmmmm, not built any of these, I assume these hopup Durga shocks use the low friction guide set? where all my 501X shocks use the old type seals.

Sorry I can't be of help but I'm sure someone will know

[DCM]

I think the black spacers are for under the piston to limit droop....

the order from top to bottom is

red o-ring
rod guide (white)
red o-ring
rod guide (white - top hat section)
then seal cap

I think that is right, if not, scan the instruction leaflet and post it up here for me to look at.

[Zipper]

Originally Posted by CAClark

Hey guys, yet again I am stumped by what is I'm sure something quite obvious

I have a set of aeration dampers, but the instructions have got me stumped. Building the pistons and rods was fine, but cylinder end where the little red o-rings go has got me, because the instructions show a red o-ring, then a black spacer, then 2 4x0.1 shims, another black spacer, and then another o-ring. That means I should have 8 of those there shims, but there are not 8 of any component other then the black spacers. I have 4 white nylon spacers, and 5 metal shims (which are used to assemble the pistons as far as I made out).

This then compounded by there being upper and lower rod guides... the upper being shown sandwiched above the cylinder end ( the bottom seal cartridge bit), but the lower one seems to be shown effectively in the same place.

I'm sure it's not supposed to be difficult, and I am probably being dim, but some help would be well appreciated about now.

I was also confused by this;

The White nylon spaces are the rod guides and go first in the cartridge end of the shock bodies (the hot looking ones go into the rears). The 0.1 shims are the metal shims, and from memory these go into the cartridge bit.

I'll have a look when I get home and let you know exactly how I built mine.

I ran the Durga with these shocks on Sunday and I was very very impressed!

[CAClark]

Thanks Zipper, that'd be grand... DCM, I'll post up the leaflet later if I am still stuck.

Appreciate the help guys, this place rocks.

[Peasey]

If you were anything like me and tore into the package because you were so excited you might have missed the 10pc bag of 0.1mm shims taped to the inside of the box. Construction of the bottom screw-in cartridge into the shock body is:-

| Shock Body
----------------------
| Upper rod guide
| Red o-ring
| Black spacer
| 0.1mm shim
| 0.1mm shim
| Black spacer
| Red O-ring
| Lower Rod guide
---------------------
| Screw-in bottom cap


The upper rod guide gets pushed into the shock body first from the bottom and is a tight fit.
Hope that helps!

[Zipper]

OK, I've had a look at the instructions at home...

You should have got; (This is what I had with mine)

Four upper rod guides (the white ones that look like top hats)
Four lower rod guides (plain white spacers)
Eight red O-rings
Eight black spacers
Eight 0.1mm silver shims
Four 0.2mm silver shims

You put one upper rod guide into each bottom of the shock bodies, then into the cartridge place one of the white lower rod guides, then red o-ring, black spacer, two 0.1mm shims, black spacer and then another red o-ring. Then screw into the bottom of the shock body.

[CAClark]

bugger it! I'll need to get some more damper oil I think before I can rebuild them..... though why the hell they choose to sellotape one bag of shims to the cardboard liner thingy is beyond me.

Thanks guys, this will be a massive help, is more of the same oil best, or would you recommend some specific oil?

Cheers!

[Spoolio]

Originally Posted by CAClark

bugger it! I'll need to get some more damper oil I think before I can rebuild them..... though why the hell they choose to sellotape one bag of shims to the cardboard liner thingy is beyond me.

Thanks guys, this will be a massive help, is more of the same oil best, or would you recommend some specific oil?

Cheers!

Hi dudes, I've joined this thread a little late and missed the action but I posted the bit about the shims being sellotaped to the underside of the packet way back about a month ago when I tore into mine too. Sneaky buggers Tamiya y'know! I ran mine with 40wt front and 35wt rear with Associated blue fronts and silver rears but may consider going down to 35/30 now I have silver fronts and black rears.

[jimmy]

I use the same setup as the 501X, so (front/back) 35/30wt - smallest hole/largest hole pistons - blue AE / silver AE

for limiting i run 2 orings inside the shocks, but if you're running CVDs you might need more limiting than that

[DaveG28]

I run 30wt oil all round, and whatever pistons have a "3" written on them, find them very good (I use the longer gold coloured shafts, not sure if the option dampers come with these?)

I am new to the world of the pistons counting for anything () so would like to know how people find the differences between the different options?

TBH, I am not a good tester anyway, I ran Tamiya #800 (80wt?) oil in a regional last year on a really bumpy grass track and never noticed the difference compared to more normal oil weights!