Cougar KF2 Launched - Page 6

hazeandfizz · #**101** 03-02-2015

Built as per kit, didn't need the extra shims.

James.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boons

Do you guys place the extra shims in the diff or build as per kit and adjust feel with oil weight only?

hazeandfizz · #**102** 03-02-2015

1. Yes
2. As instructions.
3. Std ones are fine, I've broken Ti ones but never these latest kit ones.
4. Sorry I'm no help on this one.

Regards,
James.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kelk

I picked mine up on Friday but haven't started the build yet. Couple of questions for those that have:

1) does the v2 rear suspension kit from the KF1 fit?
2) how are people setting anti-squat at the rear? (high front low rear?)
3) are the titanium turnbuckles worth it? If so is it strength or lightness or both? I never used them on the v1
4) I ran the svr drive shafts on the kf1, are the new ones looking longer than the original kf1's or do I need to use these again?

Muzzie · #**103** 03-02-2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by rossiracer

I cannot understand why people would spend £280 on a car and have to use a dremel to get the battery in poor design if u ask me what happened to the tm2 v2 muzz

Just thought I'd have a change and this is what happen when you walk into Pbm for tyres and there is a shiny new box saying "buy me"

I'm keeping the TM2 v1 and If I dont like it I can sell it and get a new TM2

.

The build quality of the KF2 is amazing and very well engineered, I just hope the parts are as robust. My only issue it the dremeling. I'm keen to see how it goes on Wed....

Npdp72 · #**104** 03-02-2015

4) SVR/KR CVD driveshafts fit the KF2 fine, just as they do the KF.

Quote:

Originally Posted by hazeandfizz

1. Yes
2. As instructions.
3. Std ones are fine, I've broken Ti ones but never these latest kit ones.
4. Sorry I'm no help on this one.

Regards,
James.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kelk

I picked mine up on Friday but haven't started the build yet. Couple of questions for those that have:

1) does the v2 rear suspension kit from the KF1 fit?
2) how are people setting anti-squat at the rear? (high front low rear?)
3) are the titanium turnbuckles worth it? If so is it strength or lightness or both? I never used them on the v1
4) I ran the svr drive shafts on the kf1, are the new ones looking longer than the original kf1's or do I need to use these again?

Kelk · #**105** 03-02-2015

Thanks for the answers guys

hazeandfizz · #**106** 03-02-2015

Here you go.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Muzzie

Has anyone got a picture of the side guards dremeled? How much do you have to remove?

James27 · #**107** 03-02-2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by Muzzie

Has anyone got a picture of the side guards dremeled? How much do you have to remove?

I run a weight under my shorty and my lrp are slightly swollen so I've had to dremel quite a lot!

Boons · #**108** 03-02-2015

Crikey, I was going to run shortys but not sure I want to massacre my chassis. Saddles it may have to be!

hazeandfizz · #**109** 04-02-2015

It's only the plastic side rail and hardly a massacre.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boons

Crikey, I was going to run shortys but not sure I want to massacre my chassis. Saddles it may have to be!

Muzzie · #**110** 04-02-2015

Here's a picture of mine built, I may need to trim more off the side rail as the shorty is still a bit tight.

What shock oil have people used?

I've put the kit shock oil in the rear (it doesn't look or feel like 35WT) and 37.5WT in the front.

hazeandfizz · #**111** 04-02-2015

I'm running core oils,

Low grip 450/350 rear.
High grip 550/450 rear.

James.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Muzzie

Here's a picture of mine built, I may need to trim more off the side rail as the shorty is still a bit tight.

What shock oil have people used?

I've put the kit shock oil in the rear (it doesn't look or feel like 35WT) and 37.5WT in the front.

Muzzie · #**112** 05-02-2015

I ran the car (indoor carpet) for the first time last night and I have to say the car felt good, a bit edgy and very direct. It felt easier to drive the harder I pushed – This is good

Things I changed from kit:

30 wt / 350 in the rear shock 37.5 / 450 in the front
Short wheel base
Rear Shock on the outer hole on the wish bone

However, I did suffer from what we call at my club as the ‘Schumacher curse’. This is the third car I’ve built but the first car to fall apart. It may have been me being a gentleman sausage, but I have now brought some industrial strength lock tight LOL.

So for people who have never built a Schumacher before remember; lock tight, lock tight, lock tight……

Question – Can’t get the ride height on the rear any lower then 20mm?

steveproracing · #**113** 05-02-2015

You need the alloy spring seats to get rear ride height bellow 20mm.
Not ideal I know but it's how the team do it!

badger5 · #**114** 05-02-2015

If you're going to use some threadlocker don't go to mad with it. If it's Loctite the second number in the three digit product code will tell you how strong it is, if it's 221 or 222 this is low strength, if it's 24 something this is medium and more than you'll ever need on an RC model, if it's 27 something then let's just call it permanent fixture and you'll need heat to release it.

I personally use 248 which comes in a nice Pritt Stick type applicator which makes it much easier to control how much you apply. You can get it from Halfords.

Muzzie · #**115** 05-02-2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by badger5

If you're going to use some threadlocker don't go to mad with it. If it's Loctite the second number in the three digit product code will tell you how strong it is, if it's 221 or 222 this is low strength, if it's 24 something this is medium and more than you'll ever need on an RC model, if it's 27 something then let's just call it permanent fixture and you'll need heat to release it.

I personally use 248 which comes in a nice Pritt Stick type applicator which makes it much easier to control how much you apply. You can get it from Halfords.

Thanks for the advice

wingers · #**116** 05-02-2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by steveproracing

You need the alloy spring seats to get rear ride height bellow 20mm.
Not ideal I know but it's how the team do it!

There are a lot of variables that go into this. I've run mine down to 17mm with std shock cups, but I run zero rebound in the dampers. I'm also on soft springs which are going to sag a bit more.

With the V2 alloy gearbox uppers you can also modify the shock tower height which affects the min ride height.

Wingers

CARB · #**117** 05-02-2015

I have built several Schumachers and have never used thread lock on any of them and never had a part fall over either, The red stuff they put in the kit is super strong so be warned if you want to get things a part in a rush.

The blue stuff from loctite is a much softer version so try that if you must, better to just keep things tight especially after a crash as this stretches the screws which then become lose.

Ritchie T · #**118** 06-02-2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by steveproracing

You need the alloy spring seats to get rear ride height bellow 20mm.
Not ideal I know but it's how the team do it!

badger5 · #**119** 06-02-2015

With the KF you could run with the rear suspension in either low or high position or a mixture of the two with the alloy blocks, will we be able to shim the suspension hangers to achieve this? And where is the KF2 stock setting compared to the KF's high and low positions?

badger5 · #**120** 06-02-2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by CARB

I have built several Schumachers and have never used thread lock on any of them and never had a part fall over either, The red stuff they put in the kit is super strong so be warned if you want to get things a part in a rush.

The blue stuff from loctite is a much softer version so try that if you must, better to just keep things tight especially after a crash as this stretches the screws which then become lose.

Strange your if findings, I'm not sure what the stuff is in the Schumacher bottles but as a general rule of thumb for threadlock red is low strength (221 etc) blue is medium (243 etc) and green is high strength (270).