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#1
20-02-2010
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I'm super discouraged!!!
I raced my cat sx today for the first time and have to say I have my doubts about this car, as bad as that is to say!!!!
I was racing on a dirt track In practice a harmless slide at low speed on my rear wheel resulted in a broken hub....a couple of high jump landings resulted in two broken arms(both broken at the pivot pin) and two bent aluminum pivot blocks(both left front) I am by no means a expert racer but I have been mucking around in the hobby for 20 years and have never experienced anything like this. To have broken different parts would have been understandable, but to have the same part break in the same way from landing a jump clean stinks!!! The car bottoms out in a thud all the time, I know what you will say, put stiffer springs. I did, didn't help. I know Shumacher has softer arms and plastic pivot blocks as option parts, will changing them help or is this kind of breaking normal. My question is this, what do I have to change to make this buggy last like a 500 dollar buggy should? 
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#2
20-02-2010
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How big are the jumps and what oil are you using etc.
Broken v little on my Cat SX so far. Had it since June last year. Any big bolders on the track?
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#3
20-02-2010
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was it very cold?? plastic gets brittle when its cold, having said that we have never had problems like that, and we have tested are old car big time.
__________________
Mattys the driver,my names carl
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#4
20-02-2010
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No bolders, the jumps give about 2 feet of air.
I'm using 40 weight oil and lellow spings. I though ti might have to do with the lipo being on the left, because every time I corrected my car with the throttle the car tilted left mid air I'll post a picture of the track
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#5
20-02-2010
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Have you done the droop mods with longer shock bottom ends ?
A bit more droop would aid landings.
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#6
21-02-2010
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Quote:
I also saw that someone was making a bar to join the bivot blocks,making them stronger, but I can't find anyone selling them. I very curious about the softer shock arms... do they break less than the originals. I was also thinking of a old school mod.... we use to put a small piece of gas feul tube on the shock shaft to keep cars from bottoming out. Do you think it will affect the handlind in a negative way, because these guys already have a low ride height.
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#7
21-02-2010
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This sounds like the exact same thing I went through a few years ago with a Corally RDX touring car. The very first time I set the car on the track, I hadn't even gotten to the driver's stand and was hit by another car practicing, and it broke a rear arm and hub carrier. Following that, every time I put the car on the track for practice, heats or races, something on the car broke. I'm not a world-class driver, but I'm not a hack either, and I couldn't believe how much breakage there was.
Ironically, I sold the RDX for a Schumacher Mi3, and never broke another part for 2 full seasons of racing touring cars (stock rubber). As much as I thought the RDX was a beautiful car with absolutely top shelf quality and design, the car just had really bad mojo in my hands. No matter what I did, I was buying replacement parts and sitting in the pits repairing things on far too regular of an occurrence. I still think the RDX was a really great car to drive, but I couldn't hit ANYTHING because I knew it was so fragile for me. Regardless of how many strong parts I put on the car, I still bent or broke them, and it ruined my driving. I drove every session paranoid of breakage—missing apexes by over a foot on purpose. It wasn't worth it anymore, so I sold the car. What I'm trying to say is maybe that car and you aren't having good juju. Cut your losses, and move on to something else before you lose your mind with the car. Just a thought from someone who dealt with the same thing before and spent a lot chasing "fixes."
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#8
21-02-2010
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Bad vibes is right, I'm about to call a witch doctor to try lift the curse. My partner is running a cat so I bought it to be able to share experience and parts. He actually hasn't broken as much as me all year as I did in two qualifiers.
I was always a (sorry) kyosho fan. I'm going to give the cat two more races...If I cant get it to handle the way I want I'm going to make cat soup out of it. So can all you cat pro's out there please give me all the help you can with this Thank you
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#9
21-02-2010
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I had simular problem, I will explain. My Cat was good straight out the box, no problems, then I changed a few bits during routine maintanance, then it broke almost every run, I did spurs, diffs came un done, wishbones, and even had trouble with the receiver, I worked through it, fixed all the broken bits, and it has been good since,
So don't give up too quickly, and once you have worked all the bugs out I think you will really like the Cat 
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#10
21-02-2010
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It seems the current generation of Schumachers aren't for everyone - I've been hearing reports that both the Cat SX and Mi4 are high-maintenance vehicles - fast, yes, but for the likes of me, who drops his car on the track with barely a glance, not a good match.
I'm wondering if the Cougar SV will depart from this trend - it certainly looks tough!
__________________
 Photos: Oople Invernational 2010 - Sodden Sunday Muchmore N. Irish GP 2010 (Touring cars) BADMCC 1/8th Nitro buggies Current cars: X6^2 | JC BJ4WE | TM E4 & E4JS | HPI E-Firestorm | Losi Crawler | + many F1s, super crawlers, scalers, drifters in the works...
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#12
22-02-2010
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Quote:
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#13
22-02-2010
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He is Stegger on here BW-racing@hotmail.com I have both braces he makes, but not even used them yet 
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#15
22-02-2010
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Quote:
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#16
22-02-2010
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I find the car weak too, the softer arms will help some though. The BW brace is essential as the alloy front blocks are imo very soft alloy.
I like the car I just dont think its made strong enough for todays brushless performance.
__________________
Three Orange Whips
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#17
23-02-2010
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I don't think that brushless motors have too much power for the car to handle, I actually think the car is too heavy. The weight is making it hard for me to setup.He's a link to a video of the track. I broke my front arm once on the last jump, before the staightaway, landind a little past the jump on the flat. The second arm broke on the first jump after the straight again because I overshot the jump. As you can see ther is no real big air jumps and its on dirt so its even more forgiving. Can anyone suggest a setup for this track?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=moRuBYauvq0
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#19
23-02-2010
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Could be a siezed wheel bearing??? My car jumps good, its not the design of the car thats giving you trouble, it must be mechanical.
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Schumacher
and make a good car go bad.
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