TLR 22 Build and Set-ups

[RDG 40]

has anyone experimented with anti squat yet? curious as to how it affects set up on this car and if its a valuable change to whats already been said?

should it be before links or after in set up order?

Russ

[till]

hey gnarly old dog (or everyone else who can help me), would you give me a better discribtion of your setup on the rear. especially on the heading camber link, in which holes did you put the ballcup??? (in the kit setup it is 1/b)
and as i interpret your setup you have 3mm on the hub and none on the camber block?? sorry if this was asked before.

[Nitrius]

Anyone know which esc's that will fit on the brace in the mid motor configuration?

[tony12795]

Till, what the team have been doing is running the camber link in 1 - B with 3mm on the hub (outer) and 2mm on the shock tower block (inner) in most conditions. If you need more rear end grip the just remove the 2mm inner spacer.

Tony

Originally Posted by till

hey gnarly old dog (or everyone else who can help me), would you give me a better discribtion of your setup on the rear. especially on the heading camber link, in which holes did you put the ballcup??? (in the kit setup it is 1/b)
and as i interpret your setup you have 3mm on the hub and none on the camber block?? sorry if this was asked before.

[jamesmorl]

Originally Posted by RDG 40

save the hassle contact nick on the thread he has on his new tapered ones

Can someone give me details for Nick so i can contact him re getting some tapered pistons please

[sparrow.2]

Tried the 22 mid the first time today and what can I say. With the setup sorted out from this thread minus the HRC blocks the car was not very good on a grippy astro surface.

I started playing around with the setup a little and still couldn't get it feeling comfy.

A mate was there with his bog standard, out of the box rear-motor car so had a go with that and couldn't belive the difference! So much better straight off and so much easier to drive consistently fast with.

Mine is now rebuilt into rear-motor config and will stay that way for the foreseeable future.

Really happy with the car apart from a few small issues like wandering driveshaft pins (not the CVD end) and leaking shocks (yes I built them properly)

[Nitrius]

Originally Posted by sparrow.2

Tried the 22 mid the first time today and what can I say. With the setup sorted out from this thread minus the HRC blocks the car was not very good on a grippy astro surface.

I started playing around with the setup a little and still couldn't get it feeling comfy.

A mate was there with his bog standard, out of the box rear-motor car so had a go with that and couldn't belive the difference! So much better straight off and so much easier to drive consistently fast with.

Mine is now rebuilt into rear-motor config and will stay that way for the foreseeable future.

Really happy with the car apart from a few small issues like wandering driveshaft pins (not the CVD end) and leaking shocks (yes I built them properly)

Hmm interesting, haven't been able to drive my 22 yet, but just by reading that it got me wondering if i should rebuild mine into a rear motor as well.

Anyone else got similar experiences as @sparrow above?

[Bob_Zahn]

If I was going to buy one or two HRC blocks for racing on carpet track which toe-in would be recommended? Track is on the small size but has a lot of jumps and rhythm sections. Should I stick with 4 degree or go with more toe-in?

Thanks in advance

[Delves]

Originally Posted by Nitrius

Hmm interesting, haven't been able to drive my 22 yet, but just by reading that it got me wondering if i should rebuild mine into a rear motor as well.

Anyone else got similar experiences as @sparrow above?

I ran my 22 at EPR yesterday and the car was awesome. I was running Andy Carters Set up in mid configuration with HRC block and had lots of rear traction. I think the HRC block really does help to keep the back end tied down, so if you do convert your car back to mid configuration I would recommend that you try the HRC block as I think it will make the world of difference.

[Gnarly Old Dog]

@Bob_Zahn - I wouldn't go for any more than 4 deg toe-in myself. Depends how locked in you want it to feel? More toe does lock the rear end in but the sacrifice you pay is that it won't carry the same corner speed through the longer corners.

If you can balance the throttle and traction out of the tight corners then less is more IMO.

@sparrow.2 - sorry to hear that you couldn't get on with the car in mid configuration but glad you found the rear car to your liking. I guess that's the thing with the 22 - it really is the best of both worlds.

[Delves]

Originally Posted by Bob_Zahn

If I was going to buy one or two HRC blocks for racing on carpet track which toe-in would be recommended? Track is on the small size but has a lot of jumps and rhythm sections. Should I stick with 4 degree or go with more toe-in?

Thanks in advance

I've never run on carpet, but I had more than enough rear end traction with the 4degree HRC block yesterday at EPR. I think Andy ran 4degree HRC at the Off Road Wars meeting and Taplow. Might be worth having a look at the set ups he posted a few weeks back.

[Rich D]

Originally Posted by jamesmorl

Can someone give me details for Nick so i can contact him re getting some tapered pistons please

Drop him a pm on here James. Hes away racing today but will definitely reply to you tomorrow. I run the pistons too, the car just glides over the bumps

[Gnarly Old Dog]

Originally Posted by tony12795

Till, what the team have been doing is running the camber link in 1 - B with 3mm on the hub (outer) and 2mm on the shock tower block (inner) in most conditions. If you need more rear end grip the just remove the 2mm inner spacer.

Tony

I'd agree with Tony except I prefer 2-B (2 being the outer hole on the camber block and 1 being the inner)
I went from 2-C to 2-B yesterday and felt that the car was more consistent. On new tyres, the difference isn't massive but as the tyres wore, I felt the rear end was working to generate more grip during the turn with the link in the B position on the hub as opposed to the C position.
HTH

[Gnarly Old Dog]

Originally Posted by Rich D

Drop him a pm on here James. Hes away racing today but will definitely reply to you tomorrow. I run the pistons too, the car just glides over the bumps

Me too
Nick's Pistons are fantastic

[jamesmorl]

Originally Posted by Rich D

Drop him a pm on here James. Hes away racing today but will definitely reply to you tomorrow. I run the pistons too, the car just glides over the bumps

I will do, whats his user name?

[Rich D]

Originally Posted by jamesmorl

I will do, whats his user name?

His user name is Nick - he started the tapered pistons thread

[jamesmorl]

Cheers Rich!!

[frogger]

Originally Posted by Bob_Zahn

If I was going to buy one or two HRC blocks for racing on carpet track which toe-in would be recommended? Track is on the small size but has a lot of jumps and rhythm sections. Should I stick with 4 degree or go with more toe-in?

The guys at Taplow on Friday were running 3 or 3.5 degree HRC blocks with around 3 degrees anti squat. I only had a 4.5 degree HRC block and it was way too much so I'll be getting 3 and 3.5.

[Neil78]

Looking at getting the hrc blocks can you keep them on the car for wet conditions or do you need to switch back to the lrc blocks?

[wrightcs77]

I noticed many people on here drilling holes in the ball cups to adjust the ball studs easier. Would this be ok to do on a car that runs on dirt outdoor tracks? Wondering if too much dirt would get into the ball cup.