Set ups

Bells · #1 20-10-2013

Hi guys
What I'm looking for is your angles and dangles so to speak
Front Caster , toe in , camber , springs soft med or hard , camber link length and ball stud height

Same for the rear and kick up if any , I've got so many options on my 210 that I'm sure I can get it more suited to cully's surface
Thanks

Bells · #2 22-10-2013

Ok what I'm after is more front grip , I've got loads of rear grip so any ideas for more front ?

I'm running 30 deg castor on front , I can go up or down on that figure , what does the b4 have ? Come on guys share your grip with me

neallewis · #3 22-10-2013

What front tyres do you run Ian?

Have you tried a softer front spring?

Why not fill out a setup sheet with your current setup, then we can see what changes can be made.

neallewis · #4 22-10-2013

This may also be if use to you: Elvo's Buggy Setup Quick reference - http://users.telenet.be/elvo/15/1.html

Danny Harrison · #5 22-10-2013

Moving shocks out 1 hole on the towers should give a bit more front end bud.

Lighter oil and softer spring should also help for slippy floors.

Tilly · #6 22-10-2013

do u run ur car with mini pins on the front, if so mini spikes might give u more front end grip. Well that's wot i have on my B4.1 anyway. Do u have any weight in the front of ur car? That might help too Ian. Also wot weight suspension fluid r u using?

NeilRalph77 · #7 22-10-2013

Raising the rear inner ball stud effectively loosens the back of the car giving the feel of more steering.

Bells · #8 22-10-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by neallewis

What front tyres do you run Ian?

Have you tried a softer front spring?

Why not fill out a setup sheet with your current setup, then we can see what changes can be made.

I had new mini pins on all round

I'm going to try softer springs

Bells · #9 22-10-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tilly

do u run ur car with mini pins on the front, if so mini spikes might give u more front end grip. Well that's wot i have on my B4.1 anyway. Do u have any weight in the front of ur car? That might help too Ian. Also wot weight suspension fluid r u using?

I only have a 20 gram under servo weight , I'm going to try different tyres on Friday

Bells · #10 22-10-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by NeilRalph77

Raising the rear inner ball stud effectively loosens the back of the car giving the feel of more steering.

I've done every mod/set up there is for rear grip , as I'm sure you know front end is not something they struggle with outside , so maybe as you've said I need to lose a bit on the rear to gain on the front

Bells · #11 22-10-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by Danny Harrison

Moving shocks out 1 hole on the towers should give a bit more front end bud.

Lighter oil and softer spring should also help for slippy floors.

Cheers danny

Bells · #12 22-10-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by neallewis

This may also be if use to you: Elvo's Buggy Setup Quick reference - http://users.telenet.be/elvo/15/1.html

Nice link thanks

Tilly · #13 22-10-2013

Be careful not to change too much in 1 go though as its hard to tell wot changes worked n wot hasn't

neallewis · #14 22-10-2013

Yes, Ian, Tilly is right. lots of changes in one go can leave you not knowing what worked.

I'd always look and try tyres first. I use yellow mini spikes on front and rear. front wheels are wide or uncut.

If you were running new fronts, they do take a meeting or two to bed in.

I'd then try Neil's rear end tune. More often than not you are adjusting the balance of grip between ends to get the feeling right. Concentrating too much on getting rear end grip can leave you with an under steering car.

I'd then try a little softer spring and damping combination, then more subtle changes like a longer front upper camber link, less caster, a little bit of toe-out, more ackerman, and the upper shock position.

Most of these changes can be done at the meeting between rounds. Maybe you could rebuild your front dampers beforehand, or have a spare set built at home ready to go?

Make one change every run to feel the difference. Have a plan of the changes to make, and stick to them until you get the car doing what you want.

jameswilkinson7 · #15 23-10-2013

I find old, well worn tyres to work best at Cullingworth. Tyres are always the best place to start when finding a set-up. At the moment I'm finding worn mini pins on the front and worn mini spikes on the rear are where its at for me and Jack.
I find Cullingworth changes from week to week grip wise and also changes throughout the night, so what works one week might not work the next.

Me and Jack both run a hard spring at the front. That seems to get the car turning in quicker and is better for the jumps. Maybe a shorter front camber link would also help with front end responsiveness. At the rear I also go shorter on the link, my car seems to rotate better and has more on power steering when I do this. It takes away a bit of the rear grip, but I don't struggle with that at cullingworth. When I go to Batley indoors I will lengthen it a again as its a bit more slippery there.

Weight... I find a light car copes well at Cullingworth. I've tried em heavy and I've tried em light, light is the way to go!

I think its because its only a small tight track and the car needs to be able to change direction quickly, weight adds inertia, so makes it safe but sluggish. I only really add weight at tracks when its bumpy or mega slippy.

Ian. When I had a quick go with James' car the other week I thought is was handling very well.

Bells · #16 23-10-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by jameswilkinson7

I find old, well worn tyres to work best at Cullingworth. Tyres are always the best place to start when finding a set-up. At the moment I'm finding worn mini pins on the front and worn mini spikes on the rear are where its at for me and Jack.
I find Cullingworth changes from week to week grip wise and also changes throughout the night, so what works one week might not work the next.

Me and Jack both run a hard spring at the front. That seems to get the car turning in quicker and is better for the jumps. Maybe a shorter front camber link would also help with front end responsiveness. At the rear I also go shorter on the link, my car seems to rotate better and has more on power steering when I do this. It takes away a bit of the rear grip, but I don't struggle with that at cullingworth. When I go to Batley indoors I will lengthen it a again as its a bit more slippery there.

Weight... I find a light car copes well at Cullingworth. I've tried em heavy and I've tried em light, light is the way to go!

I think its because its only a small tight track and the car needs to be able to change direction quickly, weight adds inertia, so makes it safe but sluggish. I only really add weight at tracks when its bumpy or mega slippy.

Ian. When I had a quick go with James' car the other week I thought is was handling very well.

Thanks James
There are 2 differences on our cars the first is the front c hub on mine the ball stud is 3 mm higher , this I will change before Friday
The other is James runs a gear diff and I run a ball diff , his gear diff has a shaft and 2 gears removed and he is running 650 cst shock oil
I know this goes against what nearly everyone thinks , if I get chance I will build a spare gearbox with a gear diff in and see if it works better