KF2 Build advice

[Justingt5]

So not more than a week since I spat my dummy out over the "no more truck heat" situation, I have now got myself a new KF2 for tuesday night racing, (who says I dont support the club LOL)

Anyway, first new car Ive had from Schumacher and so far I am very impressed with the quality of the kit parts, very nicely finished and a great looking design which I am hoping will be just the ticket for our high grip indoor track.

So far I have only got the rear end and drivetrain in. I had to re do the wishbones as I didn't find the drawings in the manual very clear, but then it transpires you can run them on either side (normal or reversed) anyway.

I have one question though - the rear hinge pin system on this car is not what I am used to, it uses plastic pillow balls on either end which are pressed into the Ali hangers/holders, the issue I have is one side is as free as a bird and moves with zero binding, but the other is tight, to the point where I can hold it up and drop it and it wont move? Anyone have any tips on how I can release it without causing excess slop once its bedded in OR is it better to just build it and run and check it after a couple of nights use to see if its bedded in?

Disappointed to not see droop screws on this kit, or is not really used as much on these cars as it is on the bigger stuff?

3rd question, how tight or loose should the drive belt be? No info in the manual at all, with the drift cars you can tune throttle response (to a degree at least) by tightening or loosening the belt tension? Is this the same?

[wingers]

Good choice on the car Justin

Run the belt with enough tension that you can still twist it by 90degrees or so. They seem fairly happy across a range of tensions in reality.
The wishbones should move while the pins generally don't rotate. If yours is binding then maybe clean up the side faces of the plastic wishbone. Sometimes you can get a small step on the mould split line that cleans up with a needle file.

You can play with droop a few ways - most ppl leave it alone, but if you want then you can wind the ball joints more/less onto the shaft. You can also add spacers under the piston but that means that the shocks need to be rebuilt each time you change the droop.
The best way I've found is to use carbon spacers under the rear shock tower mounts. You need to get the latest aluminium upper housing for that but they are a worthwhile upgrade as they also allow you to fit shocks on the rear.

Wingers

[Justingt5]

Originally Posted by wingers

Good choice on the car Justin

Run the belt with enough tension that you can still twist it by 90degrees or so. They seem fairly happy across a range of tensions in reality.
The wishbones should move while the pins generally don't rotate. If yours is binding then maybe clean up the side faces of the plastic wishbone. Sometimes you can get a small step on the mould split line that cleans up with a needle file.

You can play with droop a few ways - most ppl leave it alone, but if you want then you can wind the ball joints more/less onto the shaft. You can also add spacers under the piston but that means that the shocks need to be rebuilt each time you change the droop.
The best way I've found is to use carbon spacers under the rear shock tower mounts. You need to get the latest aluminium upper housing for that but they are a worthwhile upgrade as they also allow you to fit shocks on the rear.

Wingers

Hi Wingers,

I had already filed out the rear arms, I think one of the pillowballs was gripping a bit too tight, I took it apart again and popped the pillowballs into the hangers first then polished the hingepins (Tessman style) and now its silky smooth both sides.

I will run the car stock and see where its at, need to get used to it first before I start tinkering I think.

The kit is all built now, just need to install the electrics and paint the shell before Tuesday which will be a test as off racing all this weekend and dont get a lot of time in the evenings at home these days.