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#1
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BRUSHLESS MOTORS
With the range of brushless motor types being so large, sensored / sensorless / high RPM / high torque / with or without fans / with or without slots / bonded / sintered and some different makes actually being the same, what are peoples views on the best or worst motors they have tried
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#2
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i personally find sensored, sintered to be the better motors
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#3
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i second the above
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#4
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i also agree with the above.
found nosram to be extremely good, although my orion seems to have way more torque and doesnt rev as high i feel. |
#5
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the LRP X12 motors come exactly how the team ended up using the X11 motors with the 12.5mm sintered rotor.
the X12 comes with an all-new can design and is just generally a very good weapon. bonded is pretty much no more, its all sintered. the bigger the sintered rotor the more torque but less rpm and vice versa. the 12.5mm sintered rotor in the X12 LRP motors is pretty much the best all-round.
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Chris Doughty Team Durango |
#6
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This doesn't really answer the question. But it's an old sheet that offers a quick reference between the motors purely on spec. It's not up to date, but it gives you an idea.
http://gallery.myff.org/gallery/4344...otor+Table.xls My opinion doesn't qualify on motors, only used Novak Velocity. 5.5R, 4.5L, 6.5 Bonded. About to receive 7.5L and 6.5L. I like them, but they do not like wet at all and will stop at the slightest hint of water near the sensor wire. Blue tac a must if outside. |
#7
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Dont you find the novak L's run a bit on the hot side benh?
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#8
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My 'L' motors always run HOT because the windings are thinner wire, so you have to watch out you don't fry them as i did one of mine at a very wet meetings where i wragged a 5.5L to the point I burnt it out very good motors but be sure to gear them right and treat them nicely espec in 4wd, the 5.5L in my 2wd was freakin awsome to point i sold it when i changed motor brand
bonded rotors are pretty much obselete now and no-one tends to produce them now as sintered is so much better in many ways, I don't run a heatsink or fan on my motors as they don't need them and most offroad cars don't have the space for a decent heatsink or fans in the chassis to help keep the motor running cooler, I just make sure my shells are well ventilated at the front and rear the hot air inside the car can escape so the fresh air can help the motor run alittle cooler, slots in the can of the motor in some brands are just there to run a little cooler although i don't think they make a huge difference but can then let dirt into the motor which some may not like, there are alot of brands now that are all very reliable like lrp/nosram, novak, speed passion, losi, tekin etc i could go on... sensored i think is better as you have more control over the throttle than with sensorless thats more like an on off switch. I don't have a 'worst motor' as all the brushless motors i've tried that are sensored have all been very good and not much different from each other, I guess it's more of a which brand and colour do you want these days as there isn't any real advantage from any of the top brands in my opinion
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Custom MG-Racing Associated DMS |
#9
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My 4.5 got warm, but nothing noticable, and never had a problem. I have plenty of holes in the shell and also I have made a real effort to wire the cars as cleanly as possible, allowing the air to get through. I have only one "L" at the moment, the others are on their way
You watch 'em all go and cook on their first outings now! Just out of curiosity, what do you use to measure the running temp. A standard thermometer as soon as you pull it off the track, or a telemetry kit? I have only used the ancient method - If it takes skin, it's too hot. By how much, 10 degrees C per layer. |
#10
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get a heat gun from maplin, there £15 think
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Custom MG-Racing Associated DMS |
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