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TRF201 Build Thread....
Right, after lots of waiting, anticipation, swearing at Customs and Excise... it finally arrived in ParcelForce depot, and I couldn't wait any longer, and drove to collect it a day early!!.... It came in a nice little box, with a carry handle, some bumff inside, including a flyer with a pic of Lee Martin's car. I also ordered some parts at the same time, front end bits and the Imperial front stub axles (54220). So, after a day of doing other things, on with the build.
GEARBOX Gearbox comes in the hard graphite plastic, and it is also like the new gearbox on the Kyosho, and the motor is centralised, rather than off set to the left. The diff now uses an alloy diff nut, but Tamiya have been clever, and the diff screw comes with threadlock on it. The diff is a normal diff (no fancy Schumacher tricks inside), but only comes with standard diff balls and not Carbide ones..... But once assembled, is very smooth in operation The gearbox cases are pretty substantial, with lots of internal ribbing to control any flex that may go on, as the gearbox is an internal structure of the rear end, to control flex... And everything fits in very tidy, the only thing I could mention, the topshaft could do with a lot more shimming, as there is plenty of endlfot (about 1.5mm). Also, the layshaft gear is held on by a pin and o-ring, not being the trusting sort, I fitted the pin with loctite too... Once together though, the gearbox runs smooth, no tight spots at all, and it a neat little unit, as capable as anything from AE, Losi and Kyosho. Next step.... Rear End
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
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[b]Rear End[/b]
The back of the car will be instantly recognisable to anyone who has built a Tamiya 4wd of late. It uses the suspension balls on the inner hinge pins, with captive outer pins. Upswept rear wishbones. The only part to take care of, in building the rear, is the left rear hub goes on the right, and vice versa.
The rear suspension hold is sandwiched between the gearbox and the chassis, but it is not integral part of the T-Piece. One little tip, if you smear a little Ceramic Grease on the screws, they thread in nice and easy on the hard graphite plastic. One note, the rear wishbones, although similar in design (and obviously metric and not imperial), are slightly longer than the B4, as seen in the pic below (Tamiya item is the lower one). The rear shock tower is quite a substantial item, it interlocks with the chassis, and there is a brace that goes from the tower to the gearbox. It also has mounts ready for fitting an anti-roll bar to. Once assembled, the drivetrain is very smooth and notch free, the suspension has no binding in it either, and like all Tamiya cars, you can buy shims for the suspension arms when they become a little worn. More to follow....
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
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What flavour are the wishbones? 501X, 511 high traction or the old DB-01 version?
Nice build thread, making me sorely tempted... |
#4
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High traction!
Didn't think of shimming the end float away, am I asking for trouble?? I never usually bother on this style of gearbox to be honest!?
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Dave "Amish FJ" Gibson RB Products ~ Yokomo Nuclear RC ~ Xpert ~ Hacker |
#5
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i dont shim it....dont worry pig hands
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Tamiya ~ Mugen Seiki ~ Viper RC ~ Pro-Line ~ Xpert Servos ~ BEAT ~ Protek RC ~ Amain Hobbies ~ LMR ~ Ultimate Racing ~ Nitrolux ~ Nibbo Designs ~ Stickit1 Racing ~ The World Famous TFR! |
#6
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seriously top shelf kit guys, I do like that important parts are screwed and key located too. And I haven't had to dremmel, modify or wonder WTF is going on.....
Front end is on, very cool, steering assembly can be removed with one screw by the looks.
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#7
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Nice! Goes together rather easy. the grease on the screws is a great tip!
Tell you one thing if the diff balls are the same size as my 501x diff balls then I have carbide balls already. I have 10 new carbide diff balls in the package. So if it uses 12 then I dunno... I dont think you can mix and match different diff balls as that would cause problems... Now that I think about it those diff balls are smaller, so they wouldnt work..nm
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Associated B44, Tamiya 501x Worlds Edition Losi XX-4 finished project TRF 201(coming soon) |
#8
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201x are 3/32
501 are 3mm |
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Same as AE and Losi, easily avialable
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#10
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I wonder what the kit rear toe in is, and also what the toe in is if the hubs are reversed.
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#11
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yep, 3/32 are way more common than 3mm balls.
I dont know why schumacher has odd balls, 2.4mm if I remember correctly. They also dont help themselves out by not using B4 style spurs. Anyway, enough schu talk, I'm over my cougar for the time being. This TRF has got my full attention. |
#12
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Quote:
Ali hubs with 0.5 and 1.0 toe are due out in July!
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Dave "Amish FJ" Gibson RB Products ~ Yokomo Nuclear RC ~ Xpert ~ Hacker |
#13
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Quote:
I will have a look at a TRF201 we have coming to TORCH this weekend |
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[b]Steering Assembly[/b]
This is a standard bellcrank affair, made of the same material as the chassis, fully ballraced with the opportunity for moving the inner ball stud position. Tamiya have opted to provide an adjustable servo saver, some may wish to glue this up, me, I am keeping it as a servo saver, as I would prefer not to strip servo horns, etc.
Once the assembly is made, you have to attach the bottom mount to the chassis, never seen this before, and to be honest, I like it you then place the steering assembly on on, then the top plate goes on, looking at it, you should be able to pull the steering assembly out without having to dismantle the front end, good forward thinking from the Tamiya guys!
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
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Front End
Nothing radical in this front end, although all the parts are keyed to each other for a positive fixing of the front bulkhead. Quality of the parts are ace as usual, although, curiously, you have to fit a small plastic spacer inside the steering arm, to space out the stub axle. Currently I have fitted the metric axle, although it is only one screw to change it to the imperial ones.
The caster blocks are also normal, run of the mill blocks, they look to be 30' too, made of the same material as the chassis and all the other 'stressed' parts. The front wishbones are nice and beefy, and in comparison to the B4 items, there is not much difference to them, to be fair... The wishbones are retained with captive pins, and there is also an alloy front brace to, which looks like it won't eat the little pips like on the B4. And the last item is the front tower and upper plate, from the pics, I thought this would be a little flimsy, but in reality it is quite substantial.
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#16
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Shocks.... droooool
These are the new HL shocks from Tamiya, with a lower shock seal cartridge, threaded adjustment, Nitride shock shafts with pistons of 1.3mm front and 1.4mm rear. The quality is ace, the less can be said about the o-rings, and as soon as Nortech can, some tasty whitties will be going in there!!
Did anyone get tapered pistons in there's?? Assembly is pretty simple (as long as you read the manual... ), I always grease the shock shafts before putting them through the o-rings. I followed the manual, filled, pumped, full to 1mm below the top, cap on, sorted easy. Kit comes with Red rear springs and new black front springs.
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#17
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Basics done
Got to admit, easy car to build, no need to fiddle, although I will pull the rear wishbones back off, as there is a bit of play on the inner hinge pins, and it does need shimming, but otherwise, really nice.
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#18
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Great build thread DCM thanksfor posting it up
Now get that Tamiya off the bin, have you no respect Andy
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#19
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That's where it belongs isn't it
Great build thread DCM, Looks great to Carl |
#20
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Once it goes on the track, it will be shown no respect lol
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
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