D4 Tips

[ben27111973]

Hey all

a couple of building tips for you and things to watch.

dremel flat spots in the cvd's so the pins dont work themselves loose and also watch the diff bolts. they seem to be very fragile and we have broken two whilst adjusting the diffs and also had two failures mid race on the weekend.

problem has been solved by replacing them with a B4 diff bolt and nut.

apart from that the car is awesome. I had a BJ and if its possible the D4 steers even better...

[grindog]

Hi, any initial tips for this car? Mine should be here on thursday. I know that the diff screws are suspect and the drive pins need slotting but how is kit setup on grass/ astro etc?

Also, do the associated springs fit on to this car?

thanks

[PTRU]

Hi
the diff screws are a problem but if you are careful when you tighten them they are fine do not do this quickly take your time.
Do not over tighten them. tighten the screw right up then back the screw off about a 1/4 of a turn to 3/8.
The slipper is very important you need to get the slipper to give before the diff this helps the diff screw.
I had Tonys set on the astro when dry at Kiddy at 3/8 to 1/2 a turn this should be ok make sure you locktite the screw as it will come undone.
There are some set up sheets on the HB web site will be putting more up as we go along. Sorry but this is work in progress as we test/race race at each venue.

Other than that the car is good sorry the results are not showing how good the car is at present.

Phill T

[ben27111973]

Originally Posted by grindog

Hi, any initial tips for this car? Mine should be here on thursday. I know that the diff screws are suspect and the drive pins need slotting but how is kit setup on grass/ astro etc?

Also, do the associated springs fit on to this car?

thanks

no associated springs do not fit. losi does though.

[joffacn]

Hi

My car is built up to the point of the shocks. No paint on the body yet.

Diff Bolts:
I suggest to clean the bolt thread then screw into the nut and out before assembling in the diff.
Also squeese the spring in pliers before assembly.
Do not overtighten the diff bolt before backing off 1/4 turn. As long as the diff spur does not rotate as decribed in the check procedure.
It will need checking after running anyway.

Good build so far.

Any tips or points to watch out for with the shocks and setup?
I will be running on loose dusty tracks.

Jeff

[ben27111973]

Jeff

I would start with 35wt in the front, 30wt in the rear. blacks all round. #2 in front #3 in rear.

ride height as per manual. no sway bay. hole shots all round or bigshots in red on the rear.

this works good here in aus on loose surfaces.

ben

[KyoshoK]

Originally Posted by ben27111973

problem has been solved by replacing them with a B4 diff bolt and nut....

hi i not familiar with the B4, could you be kind enough to give me the part number i need? thank you

[Q_man]

Ben

Did you pickup your D4 locally?

Looking for one and considering where to purchase, here or OS.

Are parts available here in Australia yet?

Thanks

Wayne

[ben27111973]

Originally Posted by Q_man

Ben

Did you pickup your D4 locally?

Looking for one and considering where to purchase, here or OS.

Are parts available here in Australia yet?

Thanks

Wayne

Hey wayne

got mine here from frontline hobbies in newcastle. 0249291140 speak to craig and he will sort you out. they are around $539 from memory. they have all the parts in stock and the prices are really good.

cheers
Ben

[ben27111973]

Originally Posted by KyoshoK

hi i not familiar with the B4, could you be kind enough to give me the part number i need? thank you

seem to have fixed the diff bolt issue. have gone to the HB Ti diff bolt and also been playing with the adjustment on the diffs, they seem very critical in their adjustment. other cars I have used tend to run the diffs close to locked up.

the D4 diffs run a lot looser than that. if you set them like the instructions show you they will be fine. I did this but then used my own in car test and determined they were too loose. turns out they were fine, not sure why but they do not slip at the same point other diffs will.

diff bolts have been fine for the last three meetings.

ben

[joffacn]

HI

Diff: Just tight enough not to slip when holding the outdrives - as per the manual.
What adjustments to suit track conditions? What are the indicators and effects of too tight or too loose?

Slipper: Is the instruction to:
1. tighten all the way.
2. loosen 1 full turn plus 1/4 turn OR is it to loosen ONE only 1/4 turn?

The slipper should SLIP when the wheels are held and the spur turned with some reasonable force - correct?

How much slip is advisable?
Should the slipper "slip" for a metre or so when accelerating hard?
Should this amount of slip be adjusted for the amount of grip on each type of surface?
That is on a low grip surface I should loosen the slipper to get some slip on hard acceleration rather than get a lot of wheel spin?


Thanks Jeff

[AndyM]

Does anyone know if losi shocks will go on the D4?
thanks

[Q_man]

Hi Ben,

Thanks for the advice, talked to Craig. Great to talk to someone who knows his stuff.

Just waiting on stock.

Thanks

Wayne

[ben27111973]

Originally Posted by joffacn

HI

Diff: Just tight enough not to slip when holding the outdrives - as per the manual.
What adjustments to suit track conditions? What are the indicators and effects of too tight or too loose?

Slipper: Is the instruction to:
1. tighten all the way.
2. loosen 1 full turn plus 1/4 turn OR is it to loosen ONE only 1/4 turn?

The slipper should SLIP when the wheels are held and the spur turned with some reasonable force - correct?

How much slip is advisable?
Should the slipper "slip" for a metre or so when accelerating hard?
Should this amount of slip be adjusted for the amount of grip on each type of surface?
That is on a low grip surface I should loosen the slipper to get some slip on hard acceleration rather than get a lot of wheel spin?


Thanks Jeff

Jeff

Adjust diffs as per manual and you will have no issue.

Slipper is not there to control traction or to "slip" its to provide some protection for the drivetrain when jumping etc.

You should set it 1/2 turn out from locked and make sure you use a good quality loctite.

The car should launch hard and straight, if anything is slipping it will be the diffs as the slipper will not present any noticable slip when its a 1/2 turn out.

cheers
Ben

[joffacn]

Hi

Let me see if I have this correct.
Shock limiting has an effect on the downtravel of the wheel.
What does this effect on the handling?

How do you make this adjustment on the D4?

Jeff

[joffacn]

HELP!!!

My threadlocker was too much or too strong. When I tried to tighten the diff the metal insert in the diff nut just spun inside the plastic part of the nut.

The means I can remove the plastic part but the metal part of the nut is still deep inside the outdrive and threadlocked to the diff bolt. I cannot tighten or remove the diff bolt.

ANY IDEAS to remove?

What is a substitute replacement part with a full metal nut like on the slipper? These are M2 bolt and 2 mm special nut.
OR
Does the plastic part of the diff nut hold it in place without threadlock?

Thanks Jeff

[Somerwil]

Hi guys,

I gave my D4 some runs today and here's what I've found:

The bad:
The first race my rear standard diff bolt broke. I read about that here on the forum but my car was already put together and I decided to give it a try. The second race I ended up with a slipping front diff. I tried to adjust that but by doing that, the bolt broke as well. I replaced both the bolts by Associated diff bolts. The 3rd battery was quiet OK, but I thought it would be a good idea to loosen the slipper clutch after that run. This slipper clutch is pretty critical and cannot be tested or adjusted easily. At least not in a way that I know of. This is the way I do it now: I take the driveline apart (remove the alu part on top of the motor mount), take the slipper out, adjust the clutch, put the driveline together and give it a try...
It took 4 tries before I felt is was set right.

After loosening the slipper I gave the car a 4th pack resulting in another broken Associated diff screw.

Conclusion: 4 packs, 3 diff screws. Besides that, setting the slipper cannot be done easily.

Here comes the gooed news:
Apart from the problems, I found that the car was really good around the track. I think my Inside Jobs weren't all that great in forward traction on our local track, but I will have to wait for the 61499 Losi converters to run other tyres... The basic setup is pretty good actually. I would recommend 35-40WT up front and 30WT on the back end of the car. The manual tells you to run 30WT in all dampers.

Gr,
Michael

BTW: Our track is 50% clay (with a pretty loose surface) and 50% carpet which makes is difficult to find the best tyre. On a 2WD we normally use Big Shots or Medial Pro Crysp.

[mark christopher]

how i set slipper is both top decks off slipper top plate off and lift it out, takes couple of mins.

had 5 packs through mine on standard diff bolts niether are slipping!!

[gramey]

I'm wondering if it's the slipper being too tight that is causing the diff bolts to shear. Any recommendations on how tight or loose to run the slipper and would running it to tight be the cause of the problem?