Sworkz S104 Evo Thread

[mark-rc]

Originally Posted by hardijs

Last weekend it was first time on track with my S104 evo.
Our track is small tight 100% carpet track, with small edgy ramps.
Build the car full stock, except springs I put AE hard ones.
At shocks removed plactic spacer between o-rings to make shocks more free.
Shock oils where 600cst/400cst, diff oils 20k/1M/10k
Ride height 16mm front and 17mm rear

Car was very easy to drive, I`m not a pro driver, so I managed to flip it over several times, but I have never so many times cached the car when it trys to flip over...run on two wheels for a time and then sattle it back to all four...I have seen how pro`s do it... I thought that is impossible...mega skills necessary, but now with this car I can also be like a pro

This firs practice day I enjoyed and just drived, not experimented with setup, but still some things where need improvements:
1. Car was a bit understeer, any ideas how to reduce it?
2. The same as others said, car squats a little to much, and it probably makes understeer...
3. Stock wing... could it be a reason for understeer, as its with high downforce.. which other wing you can advice?
4. For our track also my shock setup seemd to be a bit to stiff/hard, because on to pass small edgy rams the car feels very stiff... I plan to change oils to a bit lighter...actualy I dont know when springs and when oils must be changed to lighter or to stiffer... so here also some advice necessary

Above you said that longer wheel base could help to avoid squating, so some mm of rear arms are removed- do you remove those mm just at inside hinge pin, or also at outside?

Hi hardijs, I think the 1 Million in the centre is to heavy, try coming down to 200k. Also try coming down on shock oil's to 300cst rear / 500cst front, Run the shocks in the outer hole on the arms. I would keep the heavier springs on, especially on the rear. Keep the pistons as 1.5 all round, running a bigger hole rear piston will give more steering and a little better straight line bump handling, but it will also make the car want to squat even more! Your ride height looks ok. after making the changes, and if you still need more steering, come down to 10k in the front diff.

The rear arms, your taking the 2mm away from the inner pin side, as per my photo above.

Hope this is of some help, let us know how you get on.

[Stickygeko]

Silly question, but for those who are using associated springs (front mainly)
Are you using the 2 or 4wd ones... ive seen some that look like theyre short so assumed theyd be 2wd ones

[s22jgs]

Originally Posted by Stickygeko

Silly question, but for those who are using associated springs (front mainly)
Are you using the 2 or 4wd ones... ive seen some that look like theyre short so assumed theyd be 2wd ones

the big bore springs are for both 2wd and 4wd. no specific springs for either

[Stickygeko]

Originally Posted by s22jgs

the big bore springs are for both 2wd and 4wd. no specific springs for either

Thanks Steven, Ive plenty of AE springs from our b5m's to give them a try then

[hardijs]

Originally Posted by s22jgs

If running wide staggers on the front and pins on the rear you will need to remove grip from the rear. Check my setup posted the other day as these are the tyres i was running. I raised the rear hinge pin, moved the shocks and rear link.

When i said standard lexan wing, i meant any generic lexan wing. Sworkz dont make one at the moment.

Rear arm mod, sorry i miss read you original question. You only need to remove plastic from the inside hinge pin area. No need to remove anything from where the rear hub attaches.

Thank you Steve! will try it all on this weekend and will give a feedback

[hardijs]

Originally Posted by mark-rc

Hi hardijs, I think the 1 Million in the centre is to heavy, try coming down to 200k. Also try coming down on shock oil's to 300cst rear / 500cst front, Run the shocks in the outer hole on the arms. I would keep the heavier springs on, especially on the rear. Keep the pistons as 1.5 all round, running a bigger hole rear piston will give more steering and a little better straight line bump handling, but it will also make the car want to squat even more! Your ride height looks ok. after making the changes, and if you still need more steering, come down to 10k in the front diff.

The rear arms, your taking the 2mm away from the inner pin side, as per my photo above.

Hope this is of some help, let us know how you get on.

Hi Mark,
Thanks for advices!
Will try lighter oils, but diff oils will keep the same, as we have limited track avilability, as its build at gym and removed after every meeting.
So this Sunday is the last practice before the first indoor stage, so the main thing I need is practice-track time, as it will be my first 1/10 4wd buggy season (I have driven 1/8 buggy outdoors, but not on high grip, so here is a quite big difference how to drive) at the moment I think that car is much better already with existing setup than my driving skill, so will change just those things which I can quickly swich back while motor will cool down, so compare mine feeling.

And 1M at center diff - I liked that car is like a rocket, I guess lighter center diff oil will reduce cars punch abilities...

Next week will let you know how the changes worked.
Will try also post some pictures, as this car not only drives great, but also looks fantastic

[s22jgs]

Originally Posted by hardijs

And 1M at center diff - I liked that car is like a rocket, I guess lighter center diff oil will reduce cars punch abilities...

I would agree with Mark on the centre diff. I tried 1mil on Sunday and it was too agressive so went back to 500k. You will also get a better steering response with a lighter centre diff

[hardijs]

Originally Posted by s22jgs

I would agree with Mark on the centre diff. I tried 1mil on Sunday and it was too agressive so went back to 500k. You will also get a better steering response with a lighter centre diff

ok, will cut 15-20min from my race time and will change diff oils at center diff, to check how it drives with 1M and 500k.
What about rear diff- now I have at front 20k and at rear 10k, Mark said Front 20k and Rear 15k... can you feel difference between 15k an10k at rear? As when I turned them at hand they felt so similar... 20k and 10k. At 1/8 buggy diffs 10k difference is very remarkable, but here it was just a little difference..almost none...at least at my hands

[s22jgs]

i also run 20 and 15 at the moment.
found it much better than 8 or 10 in the rear

[mark-rc]

I started with 10k front and 7k rear, but found the car to feel inconsistent, at 20k fr and 15k rr, the car felt alot more balanced with Front to rear grip. With 1 million in the centre diff, you couldn't feed the throttle in how I wanted and the car was almost popping wheelies. Running a softer centre diff let me use the power more on flowing and slow corners.

[Chris Elworthy]

Thanks for the info Mark. I've been running 1million in the centre diff but as you say it's a bit aggressive on throttle, not uncontrollable but could be a factor in causing a little on power push. I will give the 500k a try for next time.

Ran my car indoor on carpet at West Bridgford at the weekend and could have been doing with a softer centre diff then. Didn't fancy trying to change the crazy thick oil trackside though.


Chris

[Stickygeko]

How did you get on chris

[Chris Elworthy]

Did ok but my driving was a little inconsistent early on so took me a few runs to get on pace.

Qualified 2nd overall but with time pressing on and Nottingham Forest's match finishing shortly before I was due to race the final I decided to not race the final and head home as I didn't want to be stuck in traffic for hours on end.

Made minor changes such as going to 4wd cut staggers on the front and softening the front spring and stiffening the rear. Car was decent but would probably benefit from a lighter centre diff oil as said earlier.

For the next meeting I will increase my F/R diff oils also.. Not sure when I will be racing next however as I'm busy for the coming weeks.


Chris

[mkb]

Just one question with 1M in the middle diff as you intended

Do you mean 1.000.000 cst (1000k) or 100.000 cst (100k)

1000k That's very high. You'll then need a spoon to use it

[Chris Elworthy]

Yeah that's right 1million cst diff oil it's incredibly thick and you do need a wrench or spoon to put in the diff half.

I'm going to be trying 500,000cst next time which is half the weight


Chris

[Stickygeko]

Hayden ran kit setup last night 5k front and back 100 centre, 500 front an rear shocks, stock springs, Mark setup the camber, toe etc. 1st heat the 10.5 esc and motor popped so took the speed passion reventon 8.5 combo out of his b5m and put it in the evo, no further issues. Hayden finds the car really easy to drive, he went 2nd in heat 2 (I think...may be 3rd behind Anna) then won heat 3. That put him P1 for Bfinal, missed out on A final by less than a second. He started 1st and finished 1st, very consistent lap times too. He pulled away massively infield but we have some rumble strips and weird jumps all put together, if hayden put any power down here he flipped (rear end was too hard for the bumps) so slowed right down there, next time we are going to try a lot lighter oil in the rear dropping down from 500 (kit) to 300. Doing that tonight ready for chadderton tomorrow.

[Stickygeko]

Hayden raced at chadderton today, unfortunately only finished 2 heats(1&3)... heat 1 was fine but car still had 500 front and back pill along with roll bars.... took them off which was miles better, with them on the back flipped up on the little bumps, roll bar off and this stopped happening ... on the 13th laps with a few minutes to go Hayden broke a control arm, I didn't have any spares so glued it back together.... this held for heat 3, he did alright but wasnt pushing cos he knew he had a broken arm bur managed to finish... heat 4... car ok the line..wouldn't set off... closer inspection a wire had come off the motor... final came round he managed 3 laps when the glue gave up and retired

here's a video from one of heats https://youtu.be/qbebXztexsk

A few who were watching had said the car looks good but was a little loose, so will follow Marks advice and soften the oil in the rear shocks for next time

[s22jgs]

Originally Posted by Stickygeko

Hayden raced at chadderton today, unfortunately only finished 2 heats(1&3)... heat 1 was fine but car still had 500 front and back pill along with roll bars.... took them off which was miles better, with them on the back flipped up on the little bumps, roll bar off and this stopped happening ... on the 13th laps with a few minutes to go Hayden broke a control arm, I didn't have any spares so glued it back together.... this held for heat 3, he did alright but wasnt pushing cos he knew he had a broken arm bur managed to finish... heat 4... car ok the line..wouldn't set off... closer inspection a wire had come off the motor... final came round he managed 3 laps when the glue gave up and retired

here's a video from one of heats https://youtu.be/qbebXztexsk

A few who were watching had said the car looks good but was a little loose, so will follow Marks advice and soften the oil in the rear shocks for next time

Rear looks skatey. Drop the rear hinge pins down if ure still on kit setup. Will allow it to roll more and give more rear side grip

[Stickygeko]

steven the rear hinge pins set to down/down on the back

[s22jgs]

Originally Posted by Stickygeko

steven the rear hinge pins set to down/down on the back

ok where are the rear link positions and shock positions?