DEX210 Help!

mpg200 · #1 04-03-2013

I’ve recently tried to make the transition from a B4 FT to A DEX210 racing indoors on slippery floor/ carpet (York). Running the 210 in MM4 format I just can’t seem to find set up that works for my (below average) driving style. I Find the B4 stable and balanced with a little under steer on corner entry. It seems quite forgiving to my driving and only really misbehaves if I’m having a really bad meeting (like last Saturday). The 210 in contrast is just awful. It feels very twitchy with loads of over steer and no real balance. I’ve tried several setups from the Durango website. Currently using Adam Skelding Ardent raceway 14/01/2012. Previous setup was Richard Coates York setup. Both felt terrible to me. The only time I did feel I was getting somewhere was when I used really soft springs (Light blue) on the rear. But it was still a handful. I’m starting to think the 210 is just ‘not for me’. Has anyone else had the same trouble and found a cure? Is there a generic indoor setup I can start from and try to adapt?

Thanks
Matt

Origineelreclamebord · #2 04-03-2013

So far all Dutch 210 drivers I spoke to add weight to the rear of the car and try to reduce the amount of steer of the car, whereas I heard from them apparently many UK 210 setups add weight to the front... Since you're used to a rear motor car, perhaps it helps to bridge the gap a bit (for now) and add some weight to the rear and/or run a shorty LiPo as far back as possible?

What should (theoretically) help to reduce the twitchyness is a plastic tub chassis or a carbon chassis plate - people also seem to be quite fond with the longer wheelbase (not just DEX210). As this is quite an investment on a car you currently have your doubts about I would try the weight balance options first.

To solve your oversteer... there is a lot to try, especially on the DEX210. Could you tell us when it oversteers: corner entry, mid-corner or out of corners, and if this is just a low speed problem or also at higher speeds?

johnnygibbon · #3 05-03-2013

more rear camber move shocks inward on rear tower helped mine on slippy floor a lot

Danosborne6661 · #4 05-03-2013

Firstly your B4 has a lot of weight hanging off the rear so to counter that I expect your running a mini pin or a mini spike on the front? Seeing as the MM4 set-up doesn't have a huge motor hanging out the back the weight is much more central/forward. As a result we don't tend to run a mini-pin/spike up front, as like you said it makes it far too lively. If you're currently running one of those change the front for a Schumacher low profile cut stagger, you don't need front inserts and the front doesn't even need glueing on. This will make a HUGE difference to your for balance

mpg200 · #5 06-03-2013

Thanks for the response guys,
I can give you a few more details I missed out the first time. I’m only running a 10.5 motor and I already have a tresrey 25g rear traction weight. I also have 10g I think under the servo. Kit set up shock pistons I think but to be honest I don’t think I’ve ever checked. Front oil is 40wt and rear is 35wt. I ran last time on mini pins all-round. Then tried mini spikes all-round. I have some stegger ribs but have never tried them, looks like they might be the tyre of choice next time out. Taking into account all the above my plan for next time is to lower the oils to 35F 30R remove the 10g under the servo and put stegger ribs on the front, mini pins on back. I have been kindly given a docile setup by steveproracing so I’m hoping for some smiles when driving it next time
Matt

AfroP · #6 06-03-2013

Try running yellow mini spikes all round with medium inserts, no added weight at all
35w front 30w rear
light red springs front and light green springs rear

stand your rear shocks up more and add more rear camber

that should help

I run on a similar surface and on the slippery stuff, mini pins and cut staggers will give you no grip at all.
will be alright on the carpet bits though, but i'd imagine its the slippery stuff you have bother with

Fred79 · #7 06-03-2013

Have you checked if you have the right pistons in the rear and front shock's? in the manual it says to put the 1.3 in the front shock but they should be in the rear shock's, and 1.2 on the front shock's.
Hope this will sort it...... Did for me

Origineelreclamebord · #8 06-03-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by mpg200

Thanks for the response guys,
I can give you a few more details I missed out the first time. I’m only running a 10.5 motor and I already have a tresrey 25g rear traction weight. I also have 10g I think under the servo. Kit set up shock pistons I think but to be honest I don’t think I’ve ever checked. Front oil is 40wt and rear is 35wt. I ran last time on mini pins all-round. Then tried mini spikes all-round. I have some stegger ribs but have never tried them, looks like they might be the tyre of choice next time out. Taking into account all the above my plan for next time is to lower the oils to 35F 30R remove the 10g under the servo and put stegger ribs on the front, mini pins on back. I have been kindly given a docile setup by steveproracing so I’m hoping for some smiles when driving it next time
Matt

Sounds like the next run will make the car feel a lot better for you

Just throwing it out here... A quick thing you could try is reducing anti-squat? With a rear end that compresses more on acceleration you should lose some steering and get a lot of extra traction on the rear end... But of course, this only helps on acceleration.

mrspeedy · #9 06-03-2013

Its also worth remembering that Minipins are crap on polish when they're new, you need to bed them in and get a nice "flat" on the pins for them to work at all ...