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#1
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Main drive belt A-3208.
Has anyone used this belt in there X-5? I no the extra-flex belt is the way to go but in a pinch?
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#2
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I think Chris Long tried this and it skipped like fook, best wait for him to confirm.
I actually run the XXX4 yellow belt in mine quite a lot, the back of the teeth seems to be thicker and even more resiliant to skipping, you have to file the tensioner slots back a few mm's to take up the extra belt length. (note there is nothing wrong with the normal belt). Dan
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Nortech is ACE! |
#3
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The xxx4 belt is wider than the XXXs belt, hence more contact area with the pulley and less skip. I tried the green and yellow and although the green skips a little less the transmission is a bit tighter.
XXX4 yellow belt was my belt of choice. |
#4
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sounds like I need to break out the file and get to work on fitting a XXX4 belt. I'm not getting much skipping with the extra flex belt from the XXXS but I'm only running a 14x2 on a tight track right now. That could change any time and I want to be ready!!!!!!
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#5
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Quote:
Dan
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Nortech is ACE! |
#6
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Yea but it can't hurt. I wonder why it was not designed to use the XXX4 belt? The wider, the better I'd say. You may lose a tiny bit of efficiency but you get it back in the durability department!!!!
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#7
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Hey guys,
I know Chazz went for the best efficiency from the parts chosen to be used, which is why he went for the narrower XXXS belt over the XXX4 belt. I tried the black belt, and this did run slightly free-er, but then it skipped like mad on braking compared to the XXXS, so by the time I had it so tight it wasn't worth using I swapped it back for the XXXS belt. The Black belt came with a large black rolller, this is much larger than the normal black roller, I use the big one - I think I am the only one who does. Since the fold is less, it run free and lifts the belt on the idler better = more belt contact with teeth. I have never tried any of the XXX4 belts. Chris |
#8
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Great input Chris. I think I have a large black 2 bearing roller here somewhere. I'll give that a shot. It sounds like the easiest trick yet.
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#9
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You are welcome.
If you try anything that we haven't, or hasn't been mentioned - let us all know. I am currently running my X-5 with standard belts, and standard gears all round. One thing I have done recently, is with the layshaft gear on a shaft, I put it into a pillar drill and gently filed the internal sides of the belt support so they taper outwards. Isn't an essential thing, but if your belt runs to either side of the gear it stops the friction.... and I thought my transmission felt even nicer once done.... but it may have just been 'trick of the mind' Also, we have been running a 2nd roller on the alloy belt tensioner, the 2nd on is further forward and as high as possible, so this one lifts the belt into the layshaft gear whereas the original one still tensions... but can only do this with small rollers, not the big black one.... im back to the big black one on its own now, and I think I prefer it. Don't worry about a little skip on braking, I have my brakes turned down to 3/4 or less so its gentle to the belt. I encourage best efficiency at the cost of a few noises.. on power it can skip a little too, but I let my slipper absorb that. |
#10
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Well now that you mention it I have done something i got from Jesse Roberts. When building your diffs, try using the XXX-CR rings kit. Like this: Add a tiny bit of diff lub to the diff half and then add the copper ring. Then swear a tiny bit of diff lub on the copper ring, then add the diff ring and build the diff as usual. I only add a drop of diff lub to each diff ball on one side and build it. I think that adding lots of diff lube will help to hold heat and that's not a good thing. Anyway, building the diffs this way they stay super smooth for a really long time. Really long, long time......
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#11
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Clearly I'm not up so speed here, what copper ring?
I think I'm currently on full X factory diff gears, I have been known to run the XX4 gear on the layshaft though, but don't set the belt too loose on that or it looses all its teeth. Going to order some bits tonight for a rebuild in a few weeks, Chris, is there a part# for that black idler do you know? Dan
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Nortech is ACE! |
#12
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The new XXX-CR diff rings come with a copper shim that sits between the diff ring and diff half Dan.
G
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Graham North http://www.atomic-carbon.co.uk https://www.facebook.com/atomiccarbon https://www.facebook.com/nortechracing |
#13
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Will the copper rings fit? they must add width to the assembly, is there room to allow this?
I have built a XXX-CR so I know what you mean, but I don't understand the advantage of it.... Dan, I haven't got the part number, but I will try and find out later... will email. |
#14
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They're only a very thin shim. They just 'protect' things I think
G
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Graham North http://www.atomic-carbon.co.uk https://www.facebook.com/atomiccarbon https://www.facebook.com/nortechracing |
#15
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Ok, here's the deal on the diff set up. The CR rings are round. Not the standard D rings. The CR rings are thinner so adding the shim will make it the same as the old D ring set up. Just hake sure you build it the way I explained and you'll smile ear to ear when its done. I also just installed the big pulley and I must say it gets the top belts close to touching. I mounted it on the farthest away hole of the two. I hope that was right?
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#16
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So to clarify:
1. XX4 belts too loose and skip like hell even on decent tension? 2. XXX4 belts are wider, but require mod to the pulleys? 3. XXXS belts are perfect fit? I have a couple of old XXXS belts with every other tooth cut off...hope these will work because they'll come in handy for sure!
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X-5^2 :: CR2 :: XXX-T MF |
#17
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1) xx4 belts won't fit in an X5, no way no how
2) the xxx4 belt is a fraction wider if any but it is notably longer (to make up difference in wheelbase between xxx4 and xxxs). You must use either a larger tensioner pulley to take up the difference in belt lenth or you can file the tensioner screw holes furthe back, to move the tensioner arm further back to take up the difference in belt length. I think the flat back edge of the belt is thicker which makes it more resistant to skipping., it is also incredably durable. 3) You used to be able to cut every other tooth off the xxx4 belt in the xxx4 cos the pulley were so MASSIVE you still had plenty of teeth in contact to give drive. The X5 has much smaller diff pulleys like the xx4 (lower and better handling) so with every other tooth off I imagine it would skip quite easily. Doesn't sound good other than in an emergency to me.
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Nortech is ACE! |
#18
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the xxx4 yellow belts fit just fine, and are 1mm wider than the yellow xxxs belt so do provide a small amount of extra grip, i did'nt file the holes but moved the tensioner further back into another hole and used the extra belt tensioner mod from 4wdrc.com
works a treat,have the xxx4 green belt but havent tried that yet
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Mattys the driver,my names carl
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#19
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As quickly as I can get to it -- put parts in bags, take photos, write ad copy, etc. -- we'll be selling a kit with the 3213 xxx-4 yellow belt, an extra, larger idler pulley, and the hardware to mount it.
You'll note the Squared idler bar has two extra holes in it. With the new kit you'll move the standard idler pulley from the "center" hole where it is now to the rear hole and put the new big pulley in the front. This takes up the extra length of the 3213 without filing on the chassis and also increases belt wrap on the drive pulley. Wide belt, more wrap = less skip. Kewell. |
#20
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ace work mate thanks for the info
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Mattys the driver,my names carl
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