Yokomo Bmax2 M - Page 37

discothesnake · #**721** 09-02-2014

I finished my Worlds kit over the weekend. Went together really well. Quality seems better than early kits.

The one piece chassis is really nice but really can't see where they get £85 from. As I say it's nice, just not that nice.

Will be racing it indoors next week.

Origineelreclamebord · #**722** 10-02-2014

Well, with those prices for the alu chassis there's room for someone to step up and make an affordable version themselves - much like this guy did for the DEX210 (click)

It can only be a matter of time, right?

discothesnake · #**723** 10-02-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by Origineelreclamebord

Well, with those prices for the alu chassis there's room for someone to step up and make an affordable version themselves - much like this guy did for the DEX210 (click)

It can only be a matter of time, right?

Mmmmmm, not so sure. Anytime you involve a kick up then it becomes expensive. Especially if you are going to do it in small numbers.

Carbon fibre would be nice but I doubt it'd be any cheaper.

Origineelreclamebord · #**724** 10-02-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by discothesnake

Mmmmmm, not so sure. Anytime you involve a kick up then it becomes expensive. Especially if you are going to do it in small numbers.

Carbon fibre would be nice but I doubt it'd be any cheaper.

You are right, the kickup will add costs, but not to the likes of 85GBP: It's quite similar in the amount of manufacturing work to the DEX210 chassis, which only costs 37GBP. The TLR22-4 chassis (which is undeniably intricately manufactured) comes in under 60GBP.

So with this information, I bet that the flat plate can be sold at healthy profits for as little as 25GBP and the one-piece chassis no more than 40GBP despite the kickup feature.

What seems weird to me though (now I looked it up) is that I can't find whether the sidepods are available seperately - and if so, how much they cost.

I can only imagine Yokomo pushes those prices up so people are more tempted to buy a whole kit instead of buying the parts seperately. It gets the second hand market going for the BMax 2s (possibly increasing market share - even if it's not with new kits, it is with spares). If people commit to buying the Worlds car but also keep the old car, they invest more in their brand and are more likely to stay customers for a while - which is not a bad thing with the fierce competition we currently have in the buggy market

discothesnake · #**725** 10-02-2014

Dont think the sidepods are available on their own. The come with the new chassis and the flat alloy chassis. Never saw them on their own.

Dont suppose they are going to bother to cater for people not buying their products.

discothesnake · #**726** 10-02-2014

http://www.teamyokomo.eu/yokomo-euro...m-main-chassis

Just checked and they are available on their own. Result.

skyaflake · #**727** 10-02-2014

I'm currently searching a way to produce the worlds chassis cheaper. First I'm looking into a Dutch supplier and if they can't produce, possibly I have to go overseas.

I helped building a worlds Saturday. Build went together smoothly. Chassis is pretty sweet. I'm slightly jealous.

I'm also designing a new brace (which is in #B2-118MR) to mount a 25/30 MM fan for those high temperature days. My 3D drawing skills are not that great (it takes a lot of time

), but I guess I can 3D print some test parts soon. A friend of me has a 3D printer, so the first prototypes are cheap for me to produce.

I had a meeting yesterday. My shock setup (with CSI pistons) was good. Car was, despite the too thick differential oil (5000), pretty good. Need some work on the sliding: need more grip in the rear.

I had one good run in total. First qualification was a bit crappy, second was, to my standards, pretty solid and the third my battery died on me. So overall a crap qualification. Thus I went to a final lower to my standards (no problem, I'm always having fun

), but most of the people didn't knew how to pass or let people pass, lots of bumping and crashing in result. They even smacked/bumped me in the border before the straight when I was passing someone.

Really love the B-Max2, I'm starting to understand the car. Hope to get more speed during the new season.

Gunthar Guntharsën · #**728** 15-02-2014

TD310023 driveshaft boots fit nicely on the bmax. Got to keep the dirt out.

neallewis · #**729** 15-02-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gunthar Guntharsën

TD310023 driveshaft boots fit nicely on the bmax. Got to keep the dirt out.

Yokomo do their own:
http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...ber-boots.html

Gunthar Guntharsën · #**730** 18-02-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by neallewis

Yokomo do their own:
http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...ber-boots.html

That's good to know if these fail (I did not test them yet). Thanks Neal.

mes · #**731** 28-02-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by skyaflake

For me it's not worth the money.

As I currently have 3 options: plastic (low grip), carbon (medium/high) and alu 2 piece chassis (medium/high). I do like the looks of it though, but in my opinion it's not worth the 90euro.

A friend of me is going to build his worlds this Saturday and I'm looking forward to the end result. I'll be sitting next to him, to solder his electronics.

Skyaflake, when do you use the plastic and when the cf chassis? I preferred the original B-Max2 chassis over the MR plastic chassis as it felt more consistent (stiffer in the rear). I'd go back for the old chassis, but I'll probably keep the car in mid-motor config for the whole season, even on the lower traction tracks in Hamm and Dortmund. I am not a point-and-shoot guy.

Gunthar Guntharsën · #**732** 01-03-2014

So I've had about 4 testing days since I bought the car. On wednesday I only had less than two hours time, so the only thing I changed was to move the front hubs back (spacer in front of the hub).

This made a huge difference in on-power steering. Before, the front end would wash out in the fast turns and now it sticks. The first day the car had me frowning, but on wednesday it had me smiling. It kinda feels like my dex210 but more planted and lots of rear traction.

My setup:
https://workspaces.acrobat.com/?d=K3...pp-nxpfg7c5NwQ

skyaflake · #**733** 03-03-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by mes

Skyaflake, when do you use the plastic and when the cf chassis? I preferred the original B-Max2 chassis over the MR plastic chassis as it felt more consistent (stiffer in the rear). I'd go back for the old chassis, but I'll probably keep the car in mid-motor config for the whole season, even on the lower traction tracks in Hamm and Dortmund. I am not a point-and-shoot guy.

I mostly drive on medium (to high) grip tracks, so the CF chassis is fine. I would use the plastic on low/medium traction only and I don't drive on those tracks very often. So I just stick with the CF chassis for now. I only drive mid-motor, haven't raced the car in rear-motor configuration yet, as I don't need to.

Arnefles · #**734** 03-03-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by OneKiwi

Well I have done my 2nd wheel axel within a couple of weeks.
It broke off at the last thread. Anyone else have these issues?

I broke two pieces of it on my B-max4III as I was driving on carpet. The metal must be bad, never had this problem on any yokomo's before... I had to finish the race as 2wd, as I didn't have the spares...

ReneT · #**735** 03-03-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by mes

Skyaflake, when do you use the plastic and when the cf chassis? I preferred the original B-Max2 chassis over the MR plastic chassis as it felt more consistent (stiffer in the rear). I'd go back for the old chassis, but I'll probably keep the car in mid-motor config for the whole season, even on the lower traction tracks in Hamm and Dortmund. I am not a point-and-shoot guy.

I started driving the CF chassis in mid on our outdoor dirt/clay track. The track was redone, with new clay and the surface isn't really settled yet, it's slippery as hell.
The lighter weight of the CF vs the aluminium makes it easier to shift the weight around, so on slippery stuff it's already better than the aluminium. Didn't run the plastic chassis on this surface yet.

The Mid setup is still pretty far from easy to drive, accellerating makes it spin out way to fast, but besides that the car handles great. We'll see how things develop.

So far I like the CF chassis!

mes · #**736** 04-03-2014

Sounds good! As the first of the two races on slippery dirt I am planning to attend will be held in late June, I've got plenty time to think about getting one...

Car was great this weekend, just made too many driving mistakes in the qualifiers and ended up CQ. I quit early as I wasn't too fond of running in a field of eleven on a tight indoor track, but at least I could refine my carpet set-up a bit. Coming from Schumacher (old-school) staggers and mini pins, I'll give PL's carpet tyres a try at the Intermodellbau NORC race. Hopefully the Wedge Squared front tyres will provide a little more steering.

PJC · #**737** 04-03-2014

Is there a thread on oople where I can get a CFchasis for the BMAX2 from?

mes · #**738** 04-03-2014

Contact skyaflake or try the links in his signature.

skyaflake · #**739** 04-03-2014

Jep. Just contact me by using the website or a PM on oople is OK too.

mes · #**740** 05-03-2014

Anyone with access to a B5M body? I wonder if the B5M Phantom might fit on the B-Max2MR...