|
||
|
 |
|
||||||||||||||||||
|
#41
20-01-2012
|
|||
|
|||
I have bought loads of spares and still am waiting to use any of them. No breakages at MK GP nor at Area 51 so maybe I am going to break loads at Offroad wars
 , I think not, seems to be as tuff as old boots!
__________________
Schumacher KC, KD, CAT XLS, CAT L1 | Team C TM2 V2, TM4, TC02 | JQ The Car | Mugen MBX6 | Losi 8T,8BE 1.5 | Durango DEX-410V4 | FTX Blaze | XRAY M18T | Kyosho STR,Surf Dude,Nexus 30 | Nimrif Makara | MFA Spear | She Devil | T-Rex 450SEV2,250SE | Ark X-400 | Protech Butterfly,Zoom 400 | Ikarus Piccolo | VW T4 | Smart 450 | KC-250 | BoltRC Kraken 5" | Emax Nighthawk 250 | Gravity 250 | S550 | Prusa i3 | TronXY X5A | Must stop collecting stuff! 
|
|
#42
20-01-2012
|
||||
|
||||
|
I have about 80% of the plastics brought as spares and have used 0
Only gripe I have had-Was ball cups-Changed Rear tower-Replaced with Carbon Car has been faultless so far
|
|
#43
20-01-2012
|
||||
|
||||
|
I haven't broken a thing after 3 months and I haven't had a transmitter in my hands for over 10 years before buying the 210. Ballcups have been good until a couple of weeks ago, then suddenly they started popping off all the time. I just changed to rpm ballcups and tc5 studs.
Everything on my car is box stock (except now the ballstuds en cups). Original thrust bearing and diff balls. I haven't even taken the diff apart since building it and it's still smooth as butter. 
|
|
#44
22-01-2012
|
||||
|
||||
|
First breakage this afternoon, rear tower went after giving the car an absolute hammering all day due to my inability to clear a double. I cannot fault this car, thumbs up to Durango
__________________
www.caldicotrcracers.co.uk
|
|
#45
22-01-2012
|
||||
|
||||
|
hmmmmmmmm
a fellow TORCH'r, broke the rear side casing from the gearbox/rear end, damn it was a major reaqr strip down to repair it.
but all done and he went on to do well.... love the look and design of the rango, but sticking the schumy way for now.... Happy racing.........
__________________
XB4 & MORE , Team Xray, Team Gainsy Graphics, DPP Racing 2013 & 2014 OOPLE INVERNATIONAL BEER RACE RUNNER UP! FEEDBACK LINK =
|
|
#47
23-01-2012
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
__________________
Schumacher KC, KD, CAT XLS, CAT L1 | Team C TM2 V2, TM4, TC02 | JQ The Car | Mugen MBX6 | Losi 8T,8BE 1.5 | Durango DEX-410V4 | FTX Blaze | XRAY M18T | Kyosho STR,Surf Dude,Nexus 30 | Nimrif Makara | MFA Spear | She Devil | T-Rex 450SEV2,250SE | Ark X-400 | Protech Butterfly,Zoom 400 | Ikarus Piccolo | VW T4 | Smart 450 | KC-250 | BoltRC Kraken 5" | Emax Nighthawk 250 | Gravity 250 | S550 | Prusa i3 | TronXY X5A | Must stop collecting stuff!
|
|
#49
23-01-2012
|
||||
|
||||
|
I had a carbon link plate on my 210 at torch yesterday lasted 2 laps in practise before snapping from brushing a pipe
|
|
#50
25-01-2012
|
|||
|
|||
|
A carbon rear tower broke, when another car crashed into mine. Other than that I only bent a rear outer hinge pin and stripped a servo horn (the Savöx 1251 is still fine, btw). Ballcups popped off only two or three times, but will be replaced soon. When I removed the ball diff, I noticed some more than normal worn out outdrives. I replaced the diff with a SC10 gear diff anyway...
I'm running on a fast indoor carpet track, so when crashes happen, they usually happen at relatively high speeds. So far nothing to complain about in terms of durability.
|
|
#51
26-01-2012
|
||||
|
||||
|
i think the gear case will be the first thing to give in, thats why i created a G10 brace, similar to Nick ( Forum member here) Rear Camber link CF. will try to post some pics, aside from that just had some Ball cups popping out, will be needing to change to Losi HD cups and some TC5 studs. Also fabricated my own steering links as the plastic ones are weak. Rear and Front towers will definately be replaced. Using SC10 Gear Diffs ( still have the full Ball Diff in Plastic), and oh , also using the Losi 25T Savox allu Horn, rimmed out the thread to fit in the TD steering stud. a Rear allu pivot is a must, still waiting from Tresrey/RDRP or on here to become available.
|
|
#52
26-01-2012
|
||||
|
||||
|
I know this has been discussed to the death on here but what ball studs do I need to purchase. Can anyone give me comprehensive lists of part numbers required please?
I have purchased RPM ball cups, both short shank and long shank so just need to know what ball studs I need to buy to use with them. I assume I will need different lengths as they are not all the same on the kit, but just dont know what I need?  To be fair I havent had one pop off in a race yet and I have used it for two meetings, but they frustrate the hell out of me trying to adjust them. To try and stop them popping off when adjusting I used some black thrust grease on the threads, but now that has resulted in the thread slipping inside the ball cup so it gets to a point and wont tighten anymore, it just slips the thread and spins.
__________________
Feedback : http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80473
|
|
#53
26-01-2012
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
|
|
#54
26-01-2012
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
__________________
Feedback : http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80473
|
|
#55
27-01-2012
|
|||
|
|||
|
Bearing 601022 that holds the slipper shaft in place inside the gearbox case. Stripped a couple of spurs before I noticed the problem
__________________
|
 |
|
|
Team Durango
Linear Mode
