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#1
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410R for spare?
Is it worth it to buy a 410R for spare?
What do you think? |
#2
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I might do it! I think it is totaly worth it.
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#3
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I've been thinking of getting one as a spare car, don't always have enough time between races to fix anything that might go wrong.
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Model Junction, Boughton Raceway. |
#4
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I've only just got the full fat version and have just bought a few spares which came to over £50 , the new drive shafts I'm told will cost £90 if you decide to carry a spare diff there's an other £40 , so I think buying a 410r for £250 is well worth it , just need to save up again now !
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Xray xb4 18 Tenno eb410 B6.1 Merxworx mercedes indepedant specialists Www.Merxworxltd.com 01482 218000 http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19383 trader feedback |
#5
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i thought about buying the R version too for a spare but have decided not to bother i have'nt had a problem with the drive shaft pins but i will probably end up getting the newer version driveshafts
if they are 90 quid better spending that than 250 quid on a full kit that your not going to use half the parts i bought a fair few spares when i bought the car just before christmas and i have broken a shock shaft and a servo saver arm so with my driving skills not being the best and had a fair few big crashes i think the car is very strong and you won't need to many spares i will be buying the new crunch spacers though paul |
#6
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Quote:
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#7
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4PK, DEX408v2, DEX410 Pro, DESC410, DEX210v2 MOTOCROSS: Because Rollercoasters Are Too Slow!
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#8
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You guys have far too much money if you can buy another one for spares
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MB Models....Team Durango....Telsshells....韦恩是一个无线电遥控赛车上帝,克雷格是同性恋
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#9
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What are the crunch spacers?
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#10
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I didnt think I wanted a durango! Now i do! But im wondering whether to just buy the full fat version when its updated....... hmmmmmmmmm what to do!?!??!
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#11
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But you have just got your Tamiya 511 mush. But you know you want one At least it would be easier to get spares for than the Tamiya.
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Schumacher KC, KD, CAT XLS, CAT L1 | Team C TM2 V2, TM4, TC02 | JQ The Car | Mugen MBX6 | Losi 8T,8BE 1.5 | Durango DEX-410V4 | FTX Blaze | XRAY M18T | Kyosho STR,Surf Dude,Nexus 30 | Nimrif Makara | MFA Spear | She Devil | T-Rex 450SEV2,250SE | Ark X-400 | Protech Butterfly,Zoom 400 | Ikarus Piccolo | VW T4 | Smart 450 | KC-250 | BoltRC Kraken 5" | Emax Nighthawk 250 | Gravity 250 | S550 | Prusa i3 | TronXY X5A | Must stop collecting stuff! |
#12
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I know mate, the tam is awesome but i have rc car addiction issues! Nothing like the scale of your problem but I have it all the same!
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#13
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Yeah but it is the helicopters, planes and boats as well mush. Hi I am Grant and I am an RC addict
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Schumacher KC, KD, CAT XLS, CAT L1 | Team C TM2 V2, TM4, TC02 | JQ The Car | Mugen MBX6 | Losi 8T,8BE 1.5 | Durango DEX-410V4 | FTX Blaze | XRAY M18T | Kyosho STR,Surf Dude,Nexus 30 | Nimrif Makara | MFA Spear | She Devil | T-Rex 450SEV2,250SE | Ark X-400 | Protech Butterfly,Zoom 400 | Ikarus Piccolo | VW T4 | Smart 450 | KC-250 | BoltRC Kraken 5" | Emax Nighthawk 250 | Gravity 250 | S550 | Prusa i3 | TronXY X5A | Must stop collecting stuff! |
#14
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I might have a few sneaky boats planes and helis!
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#15
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inserts that go between the bearings in the hubs
http://www.team-durango.com/search.p...chTerms=crunch
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o0ple Trader Feedback NE Venue's New & Old my space on YouTube CFR RCTV Channel Glenn Atterton BRCA 2005 1/10th Off-Road Veterans Champion LMP12 National Champion 2003/2004 / F3 class |
#16
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Im assuming that these crunch spacers are new bits to use as people have been noticing bearings in wheels are breaking?
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#17
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New ones are steel and the original ones are alloy as per link.
Owners were over tightening the nuts and crunching the crunch spacer which caused the bearings to feel notchy
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o0ple Trader Feedback NE Venue's New & Old my space on YouTube CFR RCTV Channel Glenn Atterton BRCA 2005 1/10th Off-Road Veterans Champion LMP12 National Champion 2003/2004 / F3 class |
#18
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For rear crunch spacer use the inside of a broken bearing. Same size.
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#19
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I think is good to change the new crunch spacers though, because the new steel one should be more stronger, and this can save you some money for changing the steering kuncles. The alu. one probably was a bit too soft and in some cases may change its shape after a hit.
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