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#181
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Thought I'd post a pic of my Mardave. I've made it to run to GT12 spec but using an alloy chassis. I can run 1s 13.5 or 2s 21.5 but must admit my preferred is 2s at the moment. I've shown a pic of my battery holder for 2s that fits inside my 1s holder. Cost me £1.50 from ebay and a bit of time with a dremmel. There is 80 grams of weight under the battery holder. Whole car weighs in at 990g.
I've fitted an xray foam bumper to the front as well to better protect the shell. Handles brilliantly and is such good fun to drive. Shell painted by Matt Coleman. |
#182
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my carbon dave
here is mine
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#183
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Shells
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Hi there, what make shell is the Chevy type in the pic, and what kind of wheel are they, looks very nice.... |
#184
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its a 1/10th scale shell on a 1/10th pan car shame mardave dont make this shell in 1/12th scale
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#185
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it's a protoform sophia on my WGT car. Didn't take a picture of the mardave on its own so it's got the WGT in the background. Tried to photoshop it out but failed so just left it in.
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#186
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My slightly modified V12 Legend chassis with a mini bodyshell.
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Kyosho Inferno US Sports:- RB WS7 III engine,HN 2047 pipe & HN13mm shocks. |
#187
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This is my Mardave, has yet to be raced (bloody outdoor season), can't wait to try it out, will only be used for club racing.. Any suggestions of additions anyone thinks I will need on a small indoor track are welcome
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Predator X11 '08 Lipo Xray XB2 '20 Yokomo BD8 '18 Schumacher CAT 98 Mardave Cobra Tamiya TB02 |
#188
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does the fusion system need a booster then?
(i assume thats a booster)
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southampton mardave r/c car club |
#189
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Yes I have to run a booster with the fusion system when running 1s lipo, I got mine from Hobbyking for about £3 (around £5.50 with postage) and seems to work a treat (though I have not tested this for a full 5 min race yet).
(and yes that is the booster on the servo)
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Predator X11 '08 Lipo Xray XB2 '20 Yokomo BD8 '18 Schumacher CAT 98 Mardave Cobra Tamiya TB02 |
#190
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Ready to go for its next outing. |
#191
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What did you balance it with?
Tyre weights? Any pictures to show weight placement?
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X6 Squared. No2 car. Novak. Savox. X6 Squared. No1 car. RS Pro, LRP. SC10 4x4 FT. Toro 120A. Tenshock. Savox. SC10. Stock spec ESC & motor. KO Propo. Powered by Nanotechnology. |
#192
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Quote:
Last edited by f888fhw; 02-10-2012 at 11:18 AM. Reason: spelling |
#193
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New F1 Car
My new F1 Car
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#194
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Quote:
Reason I'm asking is cos I want to run 1s in my dave but my esc is 2s and have never had any dealings with 1s or what can or cant be done. Would this overcome the problem?
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if it aint broke-drive harder |
#195
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Neither. You plug the booster into the receiver. Depending on the speedo you switch it on or leave it off. With LRP and Nosram speedos DO NOT switch the speedo on. Leaving the speedo switch off is the safe option.
Wire the booster to the cell, usually by soldering the wires to the speedo where the cell connections come in. Plug the booster into the receiver in any spare socket. If your receiver has a special 'bind' connection, do not plug it in there. 'Batt' or channel 3 will do. Once it is all wired and plugged in, switch on the Tx and switch on the booster. It should all come to life and work normally. If it doesn't, flick the speedo switch on and off quickly and see if you get any LEDs up. If you do, then switch on the speedo. The usual errors are that you don't wire it up correctly, and that's dangerous as that will probably release the smoke capsules in one or all of the electrics! Be very sure you have wired it all up right before switching on. If it's an LRP or Nosram speedo, wire in the booster, switch it on and it will all come to life. Tape over the speedo switch so you are never tempted to switch it on, even in a hurry! Maybe others can give you the switching regime for other makes. It's all quite easy really, just take care and you'll be running 1S in no time. HTH |
#196
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thanks for the info good job i didnt just get one and try it then!!
Looking at Off-roaderMatt's setup, it looks like the booster is plugged into the receiver or is this a different type? At the moment i'm running 2 daves with 2s lipo, 2 ezrun's-a 35a and a 60a sensorless esc with 13t motors(throttle turned down to 50%) but am hoping to use the esc with 1s and 13.5t(our club is quite relaxed on the rules!!) A plug in type would be nice but what do you recommend?! oh and will post some pictures later! thanks
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if it aint broke-drive harder |
#197
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these are the daves of me and my lad.
the pink calibra is his VRX with diff and the black(and sometimes purple calibra) is my ce with diff currently both running 2s shorty lipo, ezrun 35a/60a sensorless esc and 13t motors(taken from our mini's) with the throttle turned down to 50% which makes them the same as a 1s 13.5t looking to go to 1s 13.5 with the same esc if possible(booster) or iof not then try 2s 21.5t. also the esc can run 0deg timing so would this be the same as "blinky mode"?
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if it aint broke-drive harder |
#198
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Two good ones available...
http://www.actionmodelcentre.com/pro...QC%2DTQBOOSTER http://www.rcdynamics.co.uk/Products.html The RC Dynamics one is well proven and bullet proof. A post in the Wanted ads on here might get you one someone no longer needs. The alternative for just a few pounds more is the Core RC 1S speedo. For your extra money you get something that does an excellent job, has no need for a booster and is ideal for 13.5 1S. If you are running a 13.5, then you can dispense with the fan as well. It is BRCA legal. If you will need to invest in the motor and cell as well, check out their package deal for all three on the same website. HTH |
#199
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Quote:
Dave
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Team Associated Hobbywing SRT Reedy My feedback http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63097 |
#200
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Now I understand-I think!!!!
Might go for a couple of the core esc's then and sell the ezrun's. Already got a couple of turnigy 5800 1s lipos so only need the esc at the moment as I can run the 13t at our club without any problems and pick up a couple of 13.5t later if needed. Thanks for the info
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if it aint broke-drive harder |
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