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#1
03-02-2013
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Inferno MP9
Hi,
I am thinking of getting in the 1/8th rallycross scene as there seems to be quite a few tracks within an hours drive. Also, having run 1/10th for the last 18 months or so, I am now starting to feel confident enough to start on the nitro and am looking to run at a number of club meets in the Midlands and gradually progress to regionals (very gradually given my driving abilities). Anyhow, the Inferno MP9 has caught my eye but I have a couple of questions regarding it. The first surrounds the real lack of people that seem to be running it or discussing it on the forums. I presume the price of it (about 150 more then the dearest competitor) puts people off it? Anyhow, are there many of these about, as I am not that keen on running one if I am a lone wolf so to speak. Second, what is the backup support for it in the UK? I presume, JE models is the place for spares etc? Finally, is it really worth the extra wonga? Thanks for any advice profferred. Cheers, Tom 
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#2
03-02-2013
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There is no shortage of people running the MP9, very popular car!
You cant hide that the MP9 is expensive. But, having built a number of cars over the years, I can see the reason why it costs what it does. There is probably a good £120 in the front knuckles and aluminium rear hubs which no other manufacturer comes with. So you've now got the kit down to £520, then there are other small upgrades which add up; aluminium wing stays and aluminium radio tray stays. The build is fantastic, everything slots together perfectly with only the usual sanding of sprues from the molding.
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#3
03-02-2013
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The money side of it is not irrelevant obviously, but I am of the opinion you get what you pay for and when you breakdown where the extra cost comes from then it does not seem excessively expensive in relation to the competition. Good to hear that there are a few out there being raced so that should be of some help when I inevitably break something!
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#4
03-02-2013
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It would seem that reliability is much improved over previous versions. Beefed up wishbones, changes in plastic hardness on gearboxes as well as general fit on a lot of parts.
Its worth speaking to Mick Craddock and Tommy Chung as they have built many many cars and have a number of tips and tricks to the build.
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#5
03-02-2013
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Kyosho store France. ~£500 and that included shipping. Get the TKI3 model (latest) and all you really need is the front suspension upper arm 'rear mount'. Already comes with front alloy knuckles and alloy rear hubs. A good option is the alloy C-hubs and 1.3mm straight hole pistons. Spares, Hertsrcmodels.co.uk is a good sauce of parts. Just phone them up as their website is still being worked on. Just follow the manual and you should be fine.
__________________
Nemo Racing | Spire Model Distribution | Turnip paint
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#6
04-02-2013
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Good choice! If its any help, I too joined the 1/8 scale Nitro buggy scene debuting a MP9 12 months ago. I generally run it at Herts RC where the support is awesome, in fact it was one of the reasons I chose the Kyosho.
The sales pitch which it sold it to me was that to get any other kit to the level of spec inside the 'K' box, it would have cost about the same. That alone does not make it affordable in the first instance, but if an MP9 is a contender for you I doubt you'd be having regrets 12 months in. I don't have any previous experience of build quality to compare against, as I have only run K cars, however I will happily endorse as so many people do, it screws together beautifully, no trimming or shaving to fit parts, at all. (I 'd expect that to be honest, of any kit, but I am told many other kits need mods) None of which matters particularly, as many of my mates run other kits, (most of whom are faster than me), however we all agree this one fits together and runs like a timepiece. One thing of note, which is unmatched by any other kit in my opinion is the smoothness of the drivetrain and the sublime shocks. Stella Artois once coined it ''Reassuringly expensive'' Rings true for the MP9 too. If you do, go for the Tki3, as suggested. Have fun deciding, whichever route you go!
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#7
04-02-2013
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Always good to know that there are a few others running them!
I have built a couple of 1/10th electrics, but the Mp9 is going to be the first Nitro, so I suspect the nitro element is going to be a bit of a learning curve (but with the advent of the internet how hard can it be!). What are we running in the MP9 engine wise, servos etc? Any advice is appreciated.
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#8
04-02-2013
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I am biased as we sell Nova Rossi too! but whatever power or price you want to pay there is a Nova engine to suit.
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#9
04-02-2013
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Well I am going to order the MP9 and then get building it. How long are looking at for building this thing for someone of fairly modest (alright, limited) intellect and engineering ability?
Once we have it built, I can then look at what engine I want to throw in it, or am I best building it with the engine and servos etc with it, or does that not matter? Ta
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#10
04-02-2013
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There's nothing overly complicated about building and 1/8th car over 1/10th.
Follow the manual regarding ensuring parts are free. Remember to grease all the moving parts of the diffs and you'll be fine. The only thing I'd suggest is not to trim the throttle/brake linkages until after the servos and engine are in, then you can cut them down (if necessary) and neaten everything up and likewise the exhaust mounting wire.
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#11
05-02-2013
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The throttle and brake linkages come pre-cut/pre bent to the correct lengths in the MP9 kit.
The popular engines seem to be Novarossi based (Novarossi, RB, Mugen BEAT, MAX) or O.S based (O.S, Bullitt, LRP, Nosram, Sworkz, HPI Hara, JQ) You shouldn't go wrong with those choices. Metal geared and high torque from most big brands are fine. From 50 quid Savox 1256 to top of the line KO PROPO RSX Power HC (150 quid) About 12-14 kg torque will be ok for steering, maybe higher speed for throttle. Above Savox has 20kg torque and KO has 31kg. There are a few things to look out for when building the MP9 kit e.g some of the bushes are best glued/siliconed in place. Otherwise its quite straightforward. A few hours work. Mike Cradock can build one in about an Hour! TommyC
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#12
05-02-2013
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Quote:
Once I have the engine installed and servo/horn centred and squared, I adjust the brake engagement point, throw and feel with lengths of fuel tube (instead of the supplied springs, I don't get enough brake force from them for my liking) and then trim any excess linkage wire off if necessary. As Tom says the MP9 is almost perfect from the box anway, so this may just be to neaten up the look more than avoid fouling the tank or fuel line. Older Kyosho kits (MP5/6/7.5) had very generous linkage wires that you cut to your required length.
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#13
05-02-2013
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The feedback on the build seems positive enough, so I am going to go ahead and buy the thing.
Currently I run Savox in my SV2 and I have never had a problem with them, so will probably stick with them. On engine choice, am I best going for an entry level type of engine, (something around the £150 mark), then learning how to use them etc and upgrade in time once I know how to drive the thing properly. I have run 1/10th buggies for about 18 months, and I can get round the track without crashing (a sure sign of a pro!) so am I being a little over cautious on this front? Does the MP9 need any special tools, hex drivers etc for construction? Currently I have the usual hex drivers for the SV2, so any need to purchase anymore? Finally, any recommendations on grease/oil for helping to aid construction? May as well purchase when I order the buggy!
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#14
05-02-2013
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Normal metric hex screws used in kit.
You might want to find/get 5.5mm small wrench to adjust the turnbuckles. This size will do all the turnbuckles on the car. 2x 5000 diff oil and 1x 3000 diff oil included in kit as well as good grease for crown and pinion etc. No shock oils in kit. Standard SP piston go well with 32.5-35 wt front and 27.5-30 wt rear at this time of the year. Im using Asso oil. TommyC
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#16
05-02-2013
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If you are new to engines I would not advise spending loads on the latest and greatest nor the cheapest and nastiest to tune.
For £150 you could get a Nova P5XLT. great choice
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#18
06-02-2013
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[/PHP]
I finished mine last week and I can honestly say that it drives better than anything I have driven....
__________________
Never count your days ...... Always make your days count! Centro C4 - AE B44.1 FT Sanwa Exzes - LRP SXX TC Version 1 - Orca 6.5t - Tekin 9.5t
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#20
06-02-2013
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Quote:
Try to keep the air filter clean and correctly oiled as much as possible (new on for the start of the meeting and maybe the final, depending on conditions). The aim is to keep as much dirt and debris out of the carb as possible. Sucking up water is also bad. Run the engine out of fuel at the end of each meeting, as the water in the fuel can cause surface corrosion internally. I also like to put after run oil in my engine if it is going to sit for longer than a couple of weeks.
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