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  #81  
Old 28-11-2011
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Ik rij met zo weinig power dat er weinig verschil is tussen inlopen en racen.
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  #82  
Old 28-11-2011
Tomboo_91 Tomboo_91 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flipside View Post
Ik heb de asso diff voor de 12h race in charleroi niet laten inlopen, maar wel alle plaatjes opheschuurd. Na 12u rijden was hij nog als nieuw.
welke korrel schuur je ze? heel licht of zo dat de groeven en nog wel in staan?
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  #83  
Old 29-11-2011
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800-1000


http://bfastrc.com/seethediff.html
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  #84  
Old 29-11-2011
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just started to build mine


impatient to
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  #85  
Old 29-11-2011
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Om diffplaatjes op te schuren is het belangrijk dat je een 100% vlakke ondergrond hebt.

Een BNK award is daar perfect voor
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  #86  
Old 29-11-2011
Tomboo_91 Tomboo_91 is offline
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Bedankt voor de tips!
Die bnk award gaat hem niet meer worden toch maar is op zoek naar een andere glasplaat.

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  #87  
Old 30-11-2011
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should I go MM3 or MM4 ? (kampenhout & black country arena most of the time)

(only) two screws missing in the kit so far...

there are three kind of greases in the intruction manual, but I only received two of them.

I guess the white/transparent one is the silicone/diff grease, but I can't tell if the other one is the "molybdene grease" or the "gear grease"...

which one is the equivalent of asso's "black grease" ? what's the other one for ?

Thanks !
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  #88  
Old 30-11-2011
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i also had 2 grease bottles.
1 diff greas and 1 axle/gear grease.
i used the black grease for the cvd's and to grease the gears in the gearbox
missing screw's? wait until the car is finished you couldn't believe your eyes how mutch screws are over .
i have built mine mm4 because thats the same layout like the x6 and cougar and all other midmotor cars
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  #89  
Old 30-11-2011
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I think MM3 is only good for very very very very high grip tracks. Where the rear grip is so high you need to take away some and to gain steering. I've heard of 1 story where someone converted his X6 to the old 3gear version to gain steering and lose some rear grip.
This option is probably available 'because we can' just like RM4.
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  #90  
Old 30-11-2011
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doing mm4

shocks and links remaining, then ready
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  #91  
Old 30-11-2011
Fernandez Fernandez is offline
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opzich wel een interesant punt.

wanneer gebruik je nu de 4 gear configuratie en wanneer verkies je de 3 gear configuratie.
laten we voor het gemakt de rear motor setup nemen.

dus wanneer RM3 of wanneer RM4 ?
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  #92  
Old 30-11-2011
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motor draait in zelfde richting als wielen = meer grip achteraan
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  #93  
Old 30-11-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomboo_91 View Post
Bedankt voor de tips!
Die bnk award gaat hem niet meer worden toch maar is op zoek naar een andere glasplaat.


bewaar jij die dingen??
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  #94  
Old 30-11-2011
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bottom shock caps (330312-5) suck big time !!!

just finished it, still have to put electronics and cut the body, but I have a question...

I already felt a bit short with a 26t pinion on my 8.5T motor in the B4, with the stock 81t spur. In the dex210, the spur is 87t and I heard that there is not enough space (at least in MM4) to put a bigger than 26 pinion.

have to buy a 6.5/7.5T ? any clue ?

(seems that gear ratio is the same B4/dex210 : 2.6)

edit : ok, just ordered a 81t
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  #95  
Old 02-12-2011
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damn ! I just did two packs yesterday evening, as a first test, and even with the stock setup I think I already gain like 2 seconds a lap

Really night & day, I couldn't believe my eyes. I don't know if it's just the mid motor effect (only used rear motors up to now), or if this car is really good, but It felt like it was on rails.

I'm curious about how a perfectly set up kit would work.

some points :

- The building of this kit it is not for 1st level noobs, at least with the actual instruction manual. Not a single indication about diff or slipper settings, not a word about tuning the car, some mistakes... I'm glad I already built & fixed other kits before. not to become a gift to your 14yo nephew as a first car...

- compared to associated diffs, this one must be a lot tighter to work. when I build the diff, I tightened it like I always do for my asso kits (some resistance, but not too much), and when I did my first test it was slipping like hell. Tought it was the slipper, but no, this diff really has to be hard as... whatever.

- shock caps (top ones because of the joints, bottom ones because they're shitty) must be slightly, gently, slowly tighten, with no more force that you'd use to screw something into melted butter...

- lot of tuning options in the kit, but I don't think it's the easiest car to "maintain" (I can't find the word for "entretenir"). for example, It takes me hardly 2 minutes to get the diff off my B4. I think it could take me 7 or 8 minutes here...

- besides of that, it rocks ya mamma's asses
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  #96  
Old 02-12-2011
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where is the smiley for that last sentence Jonas ?
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  #97  
Old 02-12-2011
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Did you test in BCA? I experienced the mid-motor effect is awesome there, I'm much faster with the CR2 than with the B4. Or at least that's how it feels.
(ps: might have old 27MHz receiver(s) for you, but have to check first)


Quote:
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where is the smiley for that last sentence Jonas ?
yes indeed!
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  #98  
Old 02-12-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cooper View Post
where is the smiley for that last sentence Jonas ?


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  #99  
Old 02-12-2011
Kusal Kusal is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soobah View Post
Did you test in BCA? I experienced the mid-motor effect is awesome there, I'm much faster with the CR2 than with the B4. Or at least that's how it feels.
(ps: might have old 27MHz receiver(s) for you, but have to check first)


yes indeed!
Agreed!
My X2C is also faster/easier/more stable at BCA then my B4 while at Kampenhout they are comparable!
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  #100  
Old 05-12-2011
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