Caster SK10 Pro. Any other Casterites out there?

[V6Jim]

Originally Posted by newberyclan

looking good im a bit concerned about the cuts also you want to fit a shock tower brace they snap the gear box lugs for a past time use the one that came with it or buy the proper one cheers

Hi! Yeah, I'll put the one on that you made until I can get the fancy alloy one.

Pretty sure the chassis won't be compromised at all. Any shock that could stress that part will be absorbed by the top deck.

Can you remember what shock and diff oil were in it when you sold it? This'll help me get the right range of oils for my pitbox!

Keep in touch!

Jimmy

[newberyclan]

i used 2000wt rear 6000 front in diffs and 35wt front and 30 rear shocks i ran on fairly smooth grass/ astro with a couple of low jumps hope this helps

[V6Jim]

Originally Posted by newberyclan

i used 2000wt rear 6000 front in diffs and 35wt front and 30 rear shocks i ran on fairly smooth grass/ astro with a couple of low jumps hope this helps

Thanks!

Jimmy

[discothesnake]

Originally Posted by Col

I'd be concerned about the chassis snapping! Is this a mod suggested on the states forum?

That's exactly what I thought when I saw this. In my opinion it looks like it'll be way too stiff. I'd go with the pastic chassis all day long.

[V6Jim]

Originally Posted by discothesnake

That's exactly what I thought when I saw this. In my opinion it looks like it'll be way too stiff. I'd go with the pastic chassis all day long.

It won't break, but I think you could be right about it being too stiff. We'll see. I'm ready to drop everything back into the plastic chassis at a moments notice!

Jimmy

[V6Jim]

Been contacted by the chap who runs the Caster factory in Taiwan. He's seen the photos of the mods and is very interested to see how it works out! The wonders of the internet!

This is all fine and dandy, but until my ****** charger arrives from China I'm stuck looking at it! Aaaarghhh...

Jimmy.

[KennyClark]

I would say that before deciding on what chassis/ top deck combo, you need to look at what surfaces/grip level you will be racing on.
If its going to be low grip then more torsional flex will help generate grip.
A stiffer chassis in a high grip situation will make the car a bit easier to drive.
Without trying the car you will never know.
Putting the cuts in the chassis before racing it was probably the wrong thing to do as you cant undo it.
Personally I would of gone alloy chassis/plastic top decks.

[V6Jim]

Here's the thinking, Kenny.

It is pretty commonly accepted that the alloy/alloy combo is way too stiff in standard form, even for high grip surfaces. However, with the alloy top deck fully tightened up without the flex-joints it is pretty much totally solid - virtually zero flex, even with the chassis cuts.

I'm hoping that with the chassis cuts, and a variety of levels of flex-joints, I can vary the flex for different situations. What I'm trying to do just now is to get some way to measure the flex. (Torsional flexiometer required!). I have a sneaking suspicion that even with a fully flexied upper deck, the chassis is still going to be too stiff! At this point I'd say the chassis is probably similar to the standard alloy chassis and the plastic uppers. But possibly not as soft as the plastic chassis and alloy uppers.

Anyway, I want to have the car at a stage where at least I can try and adjust it at a meeting just by adding or removing some flex-joints. Could be interesting....

You going to Ayr?

Jimmy

[KennyClark]

Yeah will be at Ayr.

Come and race at Falkirk this weekend to try it.

[V6Jim]

Originally Posted by KennyClark

Yeah will be at Ayr.

Come and race at Falkirk this weekend to try it.

Still don't have a charger! Urgghh. Might arrive tomorrow though! Also don't have any shock or diff oil. I'll be ordering that stuff tomorrow.... Quite fancy it though. We'll see.

Jimmy

[KennyClark]

I will have a spare power supply & charger with me you can use.
I also have shock oil.
Im sure the guys that run Durango's can help you out if you need diff oils.
Get yourself through.

[V6Jim]

Originally Posted by KennyClark

I will have a spare power supply & charger with me you can use.
I also have shock oil.
Im sure the guys that run Durango's can help you out if you need diff oils.
Get yourself through.

That's me told! I'll see if I can wangle it.....

Jimmy

[V6Jim]

Not going to make it. No charger, no shock oil, no body with an undertray etc etc. Don't want to run it until I'm sorted. See you at Ayr!

Jimmy

[mounty]

hi plastic chassis alloy top deck works well any where an surface

[V6Jim]

It's finally done!

New body (Hotbodies D44) fits absolutely perfectly - including undertray. Paintjob is a bit retro, but I like a simple design. Bold and crisp at a distance!

CasterFin1.jpg
CasterFin2.jpg

I have further modified the chassis. Those of you who know this car will notice that I have removed some bits of the top deck too. This should increase the flex a little more, but has the more useful benefit of allowing the slipper to be adjusted more quickly. Won't effect top deck strength.
CasterFin3.jpg

Racing this weekend for the first time in 20 years! Cross your fingers for me!

Jimmy

[450kid]

Hi a team of us used the caster for the York ebor24hr race apart from the car eating itself because our stock motor failed in the first half hour and we then ran a 6.5 for the rest of it. The was good handeld well and got plenty of traction, the only things which were not so cracking were the shockers don't compare to the oppositions and bit at the front hinge pins rub in to the chassis or and the slippers garbage! Probably sounds like I don't rate it ,but I really enjoyed driving it and with a couple of changes it could be a top car.
Ben

[V6Jim]

Originally Posted by 450kid

Hi a team of us used the caster for the York ebor24hr race apart from the car eating itself because our stock motor failed in the first half hour and we then ran a 6.5 for the rest of it. The was good handeld well and got plenty of traction, the only things which were not so cracking were the shockers don't compare to the oppositions and bit at the front hinge pins rub in to the chassis or and the slippers garbage! Probably sounds like I don't rate it ,but I really enjoyed driving it and with a couple of changes it could be a top car.
Ben

Were the shocks the 14mm wide bodied ones? Mine seem fine, but I haven't driven it in anger yet. I have noted the front hinge pin thing and am keeping an eye on it. I think it was designed to do this, but it looks a bit dodgy! The slipper isn't great, but seems serviceable.

Jimmy

[12-nitroman]

with the chassis cuts,haven't you thought that alloy doesn't bend like plastic? plastic bends and flexes back into its position whereas if you have a bad landing or crash it could permanantly bend the chassis ?

thanks

[450kid]

dont think they were a large bore, we ended up using kyosho big bore springs on them (only cause i had some). we also milled out the chassis but only to let air to the motor, with 4 slots with a 45degree chamferd edge about 5mm gaps the width of the motor. the diffs were good, no bearings failed only went through 2 slippers and spur gears, 3 drive shafts in 24hrs non stop and a box full of tyres!

[V6Jim]

Originally Posted by 12-nitroman

with the chassis cuts,haven't you thought that alloy doesn't bend like plastic? plastic bends and flexes back into its position whereas if you have a bad landing or crash it could permanantly bend the chassis ?

thanks

Yeah, the alloy will never bend like the plastic one, but the original chassis with the alloy chassis/top deck is absolutely solid! With the chassis cuts, flex joints and upper deck reduction it now moves about as much as an all carbon fibre setup. ie still not much! Better than before though... I don't think the chassis is permanently bendable! I tried!

Jimmy