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#4
21-10-2011
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this is a Reilly good solder http://www.racing-cars.com/pp/Old_Ca...TRe/U3107.html
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C4.1 RSpro redline 7.5 B44.2 RSpro redline 6.5 durango dex410 HW 120a redline 5.5 durango desc410R RX8 PRO4 4000 
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#5
21-10-2011
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60/40 solder is still the easiest to use.
It is banned from industrial use but is not banned from hobby use. The health implications from doing half-a-dozen joints are not worth worrying about. It's not as easy to find on shop shelves as it used to be, but it is still out there. More likely at your local hardware shop than at Maplin. Lead-free is a pain to use at home - avoid it.
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#6
21-10-2011
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I find using some flux paste really helps to get the solder flowing, I got a big tub of it in the plumbing section of B&Q (yellow tub) - think it was about a tenner but should last for ages - I think you're supposed to wipe off the excess flux from the joint afterwards to stop corrosion.
Also make sure you use quite a broad tip as the terminals/wire used are very good at taking the heat away from where you want it - the broad tip will be able to resist this better and deliver the heat to the joint. I think I'm just using some bog standard cheapo ebay solder with an Iroda gas iron (broad tip) and the flux and it seems to get the job done fine (battery terminals, motor connections etc.)
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#7
21-10-2011
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this in my opinion is the best flux to use, ive been using it years, the 100g will last you a lifetime, ive got the 50g tin and had it for about 20 years and still not used it and i solder quite a bit
http://www.google.co.uk/products/cat...ed=0CDkQ8wIwAQ shame you dont live near me, i could give you loads of solder, got about 10 tubes of lead free and a massive role of 60/40
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racer for life http://www.youtube.com/user/dooronron69 https://www.facebook.com/pages/Torba...44601622232368 www.actionmodelcentre.co.uk www.rcmodelimports.co.uk R.I.P www.gpmracing.com.hk my feedback: http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=69066
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#8
21-10-2011
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Quote:
  Quote:
 Damn, I hate the over-reacting environmental sorts. Hobbyists have been using lead-based solder for decades, and I've yet to see a single one's autopsy results have the cause of death listed as lead poisoning. To the OP, regardless the type or mix of solder you choose - the real trick to soldering is using some type of flux (liquid or paste) as it helps the solder flow and make the connection quicker, while making sure to wipe off any residue when you're finished.
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#9
21-10-2011
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Uk available lead/tin solder
http://www.clasohlson.co.uk/Product/...x?id=164741475 The increase in de-soldered plugs and connectors certainly increased when we stopped using this, the increased heat required seems to have caused an increase in poorly soldered plugs and connectors. The joint will look good externally but if the part being soldered is not hot enough an air gap will exist inside causing arcing and heat build up. None of the the stuff available through RC distributors contain lead and unless you plan on eating it there is really no risk at all.
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#10
21-10-2011
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Any solder should be good. I've tried to use leaded solder where possible due to it's easier use.
The key to soldering is heat and flux. The flux makes it easier for the joint to flow but you still need to keep the heat on for long enough and apply enough solder. It's hard to explain soldering as I've years of experience doing it but I'm sure there are some videos on YouTube that may be useful. Practice on a few other connections beforedoing any for your car. That way you'll get a feel of the solder flow.
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