b44 advise

[chris_trcc]

hey, just woundering if anyone could share any tips and advise me what i should buy for the b44 to improve the performance ect.

so far its standard set up, 40wt front/ 30wt back shock oil on standard springs. rudebits brass lipo holder and battery braces. silver rear anti roll bar. and possible a one-way diff. i herd that people are relocating the rear shocks to the rear of the wishbone to improve the handling and just woundering how you do it ?. also what else should i require before entering the regionals cheers

[NeilD]

Originally Posted by chris_trcc

hey, just woundering if anyone could share any tips and advise me what i should buy for the b44 to improve the performance ect.

so far its standard set up, 40wt front/ 30wt back shock oil on standard springs. rudebits brass lipo holder and battery braces. silver rear anti roll bar. and possible a one-way diff. i herd that people are relocating the rear shocks to the rear of the wishbone to improve the handling and just woundering how you do it ?. also what else should i require before entering the regionals cheers

Hi mate fr shocks 40wt 2 piston and 1 limiter silver springs, rr 30wt 1 piston 1 limiter green springs. Try running a fr diff which needs to be slightly tighter than the rear. Black anti roll bar on the rr. Try running with the carbon battery bars at some point too. Last week, indoors, i ran with the AE carbon tray and no added weight and the car was really good.

HTH.

[chris_trcc]

i be running demon lipos and the buggy cant be underweight, do you pefer adding weights instead? atm i got the diffs set up as you say. the suspension seems right in what you where describing. all my elecronics be sorted tommorow with a 6.5 x11 motor. so i guess im nearly set to race

[NeilD]

Originally Posted by chris_trcc

i be running demon lipos and the buggy cant be underweight, do you pefer adding weights instead? atm i got the diffs set up as you say. the suspension seems right in what you where describing. all my elecronics be sorted tommorow with a 6.5 x11 motor. so i guess im nearly set to race

I ran it with no added weight at all, it was still over the minimum weight running LRP lipo's. I'll probably add 100G when i go outdoors again or i think i'm gonna ask Rude Tony to make me a split brass lipo tray so it'll be easier to take out and swap for the carbon one. I'm not bothering with the straps i don't think they will be neccessary for me. From what you've said i think you're ready to hit the track.

[chris_trcc]

think i use the 1-way for the outdoor season and the ball diff in the front for indoor, i got te cabon holder in the buggy atm. i try them both out see what suits my driving better, cheers for the advise

[NeilD]

Originally Posted by chris_trcc

think i use the 1-way for the outdoor season and the ball diff in the front for indoor, i got te cabon holder in the buggy atm. i try them both out see what suits my driving better, cheers for the advise

I've taken the one way out as i find the car drives better with the diff in and has better brakes but do 1 run with the diff then stick the one way in and see how it feels to you. Don't make loads of changes at once do them one at a time to see the difference above all don't get lost in the set up. Your current set up is good so you might only need minor changes if any at all.

[c0sie]

Ill be interested to hear more about the "relocating the rear shocks" thingy

[NeilD]

Originally Posted by c0sie

Ill be interested to hear more about the "relocating the rear shocks" thingy

One of the racers at our club has done it. I can't see any improvement over the original set up.

[chris_trcc]

3 lads done this also, i asked 1 of them and he said there is a slight increase of stabilty on the track, but i dont think you going to notice the difference,

i taken the b44 for its 1st run today on local field, after adjusting the slipper, the buggy handles superb, acceration is unreal with the lipos, cant wait to get it on the track

[NeilD]

Chris, the team run the car with the rear shocks on the front as normal so i don't see the point in moving them to the back. The car has loads of grips and rides the bumps really well. Let us know how you get on at the track.

[chris_trcc]

just little update, got the buggy on my indoor track tonight, but didnt race it, but my god this buggy is amasing. the handling and power is unreal. it was driving so smooth and quick on the corners and the straight with no problems at all. so easy to drive. i perfer the one-way diff imo. so thats staying in. rear silver roll bar on. rudebits lipo holder and battery holding bars. the extra weight is well worth it. all i need now is the rpm ball joints as when i clipped the corner my steering ball joint came off couple of times. dont think im going to upgrade the top deck yet just to see how i go. i just put washers on where the ball cups are

just scared of the power now i had to turn it down on the transmitter lol

[Big G]

ran mine on bumpy grass on Saturday which we'd had the lightest spell of rain on with oldish green schuy tyres on and it run amazing. The new Speed passion V3 5.5 motor is very nice to drive powered by a GTB (until my GT2.0 turns up)

very nice traction for the get away although I felt a little bit of slipper on the initial burst. no hint of grip roll at all even when I tried to make it roll over. the setup rode the bumps very nicely and even when I threw it around it held on.

30wt front 25wt rear. no ARB's. pretty much stock setup. front shocks are on the outer holes on the tower and arms. rears are as inner tower outer arms.

[jcb]

Ran my B44 all year with the following setup

Front
35 wt
Number 2 piston
Silver Spring
Inside on tower outside on wishbone

Rear
25 wt
Number 1 piston
Silver Spring
Inside on tower and wishbone

Short wheel base
1 Shim for Anti Squat

Camber links as per the manual with two washers under ball stud both front and rear

Diff in front, set slightly tighter than rear

RudeBits brass battery tray with carbon battery straps
Hot racing alloy rear plate

about the only setup changes were:
30 wt in rear shocks if car is bottoming out on jumps,
reduce number of washers under front camber link ball stud to reduce steering if still to much steering go up to 40 wt in front shocks,
lengthen wheel base if track is bumpy,

Didn't try mounting shocks on the rear of the rear wishbones, would think it would make it better when accelerating through bumpy sections but may have to go up on oil and or spring as there will be more leverage

[Big G]

what does adding washers on the camber links under the top deck do? my dad has quite a few on his front and back while I only have 1 on both.

I have lipo and he has nimh's though

[enfieldbanana]

Evening people,

If memory serves me correct adding washers under the top deck/ball studs for the camber links removes a small amount of body roll, side to side movement when turning. Have I got that correct? If I have please correct me.

Andy

[jcb]

Adding washers, so you end up lowering the ballstud gives you more side bite, so more grip in the middle of the corner, and will reduce forwards drive slightly to.

Basically it as the suspension is compressed the top of the tire will lean in more (like having more negative camber), so it increases the contact area when going round a corner, but gives gives less forwards drive as when the car squats under acceleration the tire leans in at the top reducing the contact patch on the track.

Hope that makes sense.

[Big G]

cool. in a nutshell gives me steering grip and less forward/brake grip?

[jcb]

Originally Posted by Big G

cool. in a nutshell gives me steering grip and less forward/brake grip?

Yep

[Big G]

the car ran really well with the new SP v3 brushless motor in there. Will try adding washers though to see if it makes much difference for next week. Got Kiddy before we race again down the club so I'll leave the car as it is for now.