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#1
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Sc10 rear wheels pins problem
Has any body had problems with the rear pins striping the wheel. I no the pins are sitting right in the slots I am only running a 10.5 motor the car has just ran up an down the road to test the car????? If so what other wheels to buy
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#2
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pin problems
Iv'e heard of this happening and iv'e been told to fill in the moulding on the inside of the wheel (not the slot you use for the pin)with putty or anythihg that sets hard and it stops the plastic spreading under load.And you might be running the slipper clutch to hard so back it off a bit.I myself have invested in traxxas wheels and a 12mm hex conversion from e-bay USA,you can also get 17mm hex conversion and run rally x wheels and tyres but i think that would be a no no in any race series.Hope this helps.
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#3
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Thanks for the info will check the slipper to night
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#4
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Hi
the original kits had an issue with not having enough strength around the pin slots in the wheels ( hence filling the gaps with araldite etc ) but this was only on the very early kits ! the recent ones have reinforced wheels and no longer cause an issue! how old is your kit ? and where was it purchased. |
#5
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Or you could use longer pins....
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Graham North http://www.atomic-carbon.co.uk https://www.facebook.com/atomiccarbon https://www.facebook.com/nortechracing |
#6
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Quote:
It was from Maidstone models about week befor Xmas |
#7
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i would also sugest above, see the man above who can supply them, cheap and perfect..... the pins are good too
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MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD |
#8
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I got a new set of wheels recently and, as Wes has said, these have now been strengthened from the originals. The picture below is of an AE #9808 wheel and as you can see there is a lot more material around where the pin goes.
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Gareth Stanton |
#9
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b4 wheel nuts grip more to the CVD than the bigger sc10 ones
tested a few "stronger" wheels and found that the wheel nuts are the biggest issue
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Team Associated- HobbyWing- Reedy- CML |
#10
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If you go to your local model shop you can buy a length of spring steel for peanuts and have drive pins an inch long if you like
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#11
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Heres a pic of the difference between old and new rims:
Quote:
Stick your old rims in the oven, 180deg C, 4 mins on a baking tray, then you'll be able to pull the old tyres off the rims if they are still in decent condition. Then just buy new rims.
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Yellow wheels are faster - FACT |
#12
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My wheels are knackered, even with longer pins. Somehow im still using them and just keep re-tightening them between runs.
Still on original wheels, kit bought new from JEspares about August/Sept 2009. Infact, Ive just bought new wheels 2 weeks ago from the shop at Bury indoor club, unused but glued to new tyres ready - and those wheels are also of the old design!!!!!! (Wez, help!! ) |
#13
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I had the same issue (destroyed two sets of wheels...) and consequently converted to hex drives (TC3 ones). I had to get the axle more to the inside, though. I managed to do so by cutting the original bearing spacer in half and putting the halves on the (cvd) axles before pushing them into the bearings.
Looks great and works great, but was a little late for me after having issues for the entire season... I really liked the old aluminum RC10s of my friends (myself driving a Cougar 2 with brittle front plate at that time), but I'm a little disappointed of the 1st series SC10. The newer one seems to have all major problems solved: toe-in in the rear, more caster in the front, reinforced chassis and suspension (had no problems with these...) and ruggedized rear wheels. I wonder when there will be a FT version...
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NRW Offroad Cup |
#14
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where can I find these updates?
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www.rc-offroad.be Never argue with a stupid man. He will drag you down to his level and beat you because of his experience. |
#15
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Hmm...found the same issue with the wheels on my SC10. I'm going to use Nortech longer pins, put some araldite around the wheel pin slot to reinforce it and get some of those Fastrax wheel nuts!
Also read on another thread about using a washer on the outside of the wheel to ensure the nuts aren't getting to the end of the axle thread and will nip up tightly to ensure the pin is nicely engaged. Be interested to know about the other updates as Cooper asked Anyone got more details of these?
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Losi Muggy-R (Spek, SH .28, 48T Spur, Steering mod, ACE) Losi 8Te (Castle MMM, 2200kv, Hyperion 6500mah 4s 35C Lipo, RC-M motor mount, Losi battery/radio tray) Maverick Atom XB 1/18 (Spek) Associated B4RS (Spek, Castle MM/5700KV, Lipo) Associated SC10 (Spek, Novak/8.5 Turnigy, Lipo) www.ddgraphics.co.uk |
#16
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I stripped the original wheels, so bought some Proline Split 6's and the blue B4 wheelnuts and havent had a problem since.
Matt |
#17
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Running 2 sc10's..Tried all the wheels and they all munch in the end..Original pin too short and huge diameter wheel...somethings got to give...My solution which totally works...crude i admit, dremel a neat slot fully across the hub and cut a pin from piano wire about25mm long.. Put wheel back on tight and it will stay on til tyre wears through to the insert!
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#18
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Quote:
A pack gives you 4, so 2 for the B4 and 2 to put on the SC10
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Losi Muggy-R (Spek, SH .28, 48T Spur, Steering mod, ACE) Losi 8Te (Castle MMM, 2200kv, Hyperion 6500mah 4s 35C Lipo, RC-M motor mount, Losi battery/radio tray) Maverick Atom XB 1/18 (Spek) Associated B4RS (Spek, Castle MM/5700KV, Lipo) Associated SC10 (Spek, Novak/8.5 Turnigy, Lipo) www.ddgraphics.co.uk |
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