Aero Setups - Page 9

KevLee · #**161** 02-06-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by redscott

I was wondering has anyone tried using associated or losi shocks. the car is cool on small minor jumps ans straights but, stiff and poor on large jumps.
I've gone from 40wt 2 30wt oil n the front using orange springs. n the rear I've gone from 40wt 2 25wt oil using pink springs. not sure what pistons im using. I left the piston alone since I know david gibson already did some of the shock mods that have been recommended on. just looking 4 options. by way thanks 4 all the servo help.

Can you tell me what pistons hole sizes you have in there and also can you confirm the seals have been changed?

KevLee · #**162** 02-06-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaveG28

Hi again mate, the pistons were at .052" in all holes as far as I can remember, also had the better orings and thinner middle spacer in there!

Someone told me Lee used Losi Shocks last year, not sure if anyone else can verfy that? Both Losi and Associated should work though, just need the right spacing at the top to make sure the shocks sit at the right angle!

Sorry just read this

. I think that may be a little soft on the piston. I'm running 56 holes in the front (1.18mm or .0465") and in the back two holes drilled to 56 and one to 55 (1.32mm .0520"). Yesterday i ended up on 32.5wt in the front and 25 in the back.

Lee did run Losi shocks last year but only because the Aero shocks wern't available back then. they are a similar shock to Losi but slighlty bigger diameter.

redscott · #**163** 03-06-2008

after driving my s4 and testing the aero with associated shocks and springs I desided 2 take the losi shocks off my s4 4 a minute and try them on the aero. all I can say is losi r the kings n the r/c shock game. the car now handles like a completely different monster. now I have 2 wait till this weekend 2 give it a better and more definded test.
Thanx 4 all u guys help. i will post an update later this week. please feel free 2 post any more tip 4 this will b my first weekend racing the aero A1. last was just getting a feel 4 the car on the track.

Ron Burgundy · #**164** 03-06-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by KevLee

Hi,

Losi rears are identical fitment and offset so you can use Aero/Losi/Associated rear wheels. On the front aero have slightly shorter wishbones and more offset on the wheel so Losi front wheels will fit but will give a slightly narrower car.

Spares are available in the UK from the raceplace.co.uk or direct from the Aero site, i'm sure either could get them to you somehow.

the shocks are very good, they are just improved by having the seals replaced (i'd recommend the Nortec whiteys) and that frees them up, Aero are looking at this for the future though. You also will need to drill the pistons as they come with a pilot hole, but again Aero are working on a range of pistons.

The fit and finish is very good and the car is simple to build and work on.

The main problem with the first release was the plastic (at cold temps) but that was resolved quickly and people who already had purchased the car got replacement parts. The car is extremely strong now so you can be sure of that.

I hope that helps

Thanks guys, appreciate the honest feedback, as it is a fairly good wack of money compared to others (US prices) and it is a great design.

Will go ahead with it and hopefully let you know of its success. Thanks guys again!

DaveG28 · #**165** 04-06-2008

About to put the one way in the front, can anyone running it remember how they shimmed it? The bit of paper with it gives shim positions for the ntc3 and b44.

I'm still new to this shaft drive lark so worried I'll screw it up!

DaveG28 · #**166** 08-06-2008

Has anyone found a trick to reduce the bump steer on the Aero? Noticed how bad it was when I tried to set the front toe!

KevLee · #**167** 10-06-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaveG28

Has anyone found a trick to reduce the bump steer on the Aero? Noticed how bad it was when I tried to set the front toe!

You can take some material off the steering link to lower the balljoint (at the wheel end), thats what i've done. If you look at the plastic arm you'll see a moulding seam, dremel/file down to that line and it should be about right. Leave a nice radius to make sure you don't raise a stress line.

DaveG28 · #**168** 10-06-2008

Thanks, I'll try that!

Would it throw it way out to run the ball stud off the bottom of the link instead of the top?

jimmy · #**169** 10-06-2008

yeah it would.
I eliminated the bump steer and it looks better than factory!

I used Black AE B44 ball studs - these are lower than kit items so lower the height.. these on their own are direct replacements (use an imperial thread so you need an imperial nut on the link) and reduce bump steer. To get rid of the remaining bump steer I used a woodwork drill bit - the sort with a centre spike.
The spike sits in the hole on the steering knuckle and you slowly drill down until the main body of the drill bit starts carving out a perfect hole in the steering knuckle. Of course I used a drill bit which was identical diameter to the shoulder of the B44 ball stud.
My B44 ball studs now sit flush with the top of the steering knuckle and have material all round the stud to support it. Super neat and works perfectly.

sorry, I am really proud of my handywork!

elvo · #**170** 10-06-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaveG28

Has anyone found a trick to reduce the bump steer on the Aero? Noticed how bad it was when I tried to set the front toe!

yes. Assemble the steering the way it was on the Durango. Not sure if I can remember it off the top of my head, but the steering rack goes on whatever side it's not on now, and the ball studs go on the other side of the rack as well. Bump steer is as good as gone.

There are probably pics of a durango on here....

KevLee · #**171** 10-06-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by elvo

yes. Assemble the steering the way it was on the Durango. Not sure if I can remember it off the top of my head, but the steering rack goes on whatever side it's not on now, and the ball studs go on the other side of the rack as well. Bump steer is as good as gone.

There are probably pics of a durango on here....

you can indeed do it that way but then you have to add washers under the outer link and the ballcup can catch on the wheel. I tried it that way first.

Jimmy is basically doing the same as me, i also used some short neck ballstuds. Its more than strong enough which ever way you do it so i'd just attack it with a dremmel

DaveG28 · #**172** 10-06-2008

Cheers for the tips guys, had noticed the stud sits high, may try a tamiya replacement as I already have them!

Struggled again last weekend but have another 3 straight weekends running it now, so thinking Losi shocks and reduced bump steer for this weekend and go from there!

spenner · #**173** 10-06-2008

Having run the Losi shocks on the Aero for the first couple of weeks i think you will find the car much harder to set up.
The shocks will require totally different setting to any other car, as the weight in the Aero is very central. This means the car feels very soft..

With the current settings on the Aero shocks you shouldn't have any problems.
One thing to remember is to not lock the nut up fully on the shock as this will cause the shocks to rebound very slow.

If you are finding the car unstable on the rear then try moving to longer wheel base.
Another thing is to make sure you check your slipper as this can work loose over time and will effect the car drasticly..

DaveG28 · #**174** 10-06-2008

Well, I'm using whities, have added droop to the rear (as much as possible without driveshafts popping), and using 56 size holes in the pistons with 30wt oil all round and blue front/red rear springs. Basically the car jumps fine and is also ok at single bumps, but is horrible where there is a rough surface and turns. I was running at Bury and if I tried to be at all aggressive it would start to bounce around then fire off into a series of barrel roles. My 501x was less settled in a straight line but way better on bumpy turns.

I want to try and reduce the bump steer as I'm guessing this may be the problem from the above symptoms, but other ideas much appreciated!

spenner · #**175** 10-06-2008

Im guessing you are running 56 drilled piston's ??
i would try 35 wt in the back, as it sounds to soft which is causing you to bounce around. In the front again i would go up and try 40 wt with the blue spring, this will take away some of the grip which will cause the car to roll easy.
Make sure you are running drive shafts level. middle whole on all wishbones, if you have too much or the front end feels very sharp then move to outside on wishbone.
Inside hole on front shock tower and middle on rear.

Are you using Aero springs or losi ???

DaveG28 · #**176** 10-06-2008

Aero!

Cheers for the tips!

spenner · #**177** 10-06-2008

Try losi red spring on rear and losi green on front.
It will help for now.

pinoylst · #**178** 11-06-2008

Hi jimmy and Kev!

Could you guys post pix of the mod you did to remove bump steer?

Many thanks...

KevLee · #**179** 12-06-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by pinoylst

Hi jimmy and Kev!

Could you guys post pix of the mod you did to remove bump steer?

Many thanks...

Heres a picture of the mod, just dremel to the "seam". Hope this helps

Attachment 3119

pinoylst · #**180** 12-06-2008

Thanks for the tip and pix Kev!!!....I've got some dremeling to do rrrrrrRRRRRRrrrrrRRRRR.....