it just gets better!

[telboy]

Well, just to say that the more I run this car, the better it gets!

After running it at batley today (where Durango's took the top 4 places ) it really is getting better the more we fiddle around with them.

Top work everyone.

[GRIFF55]

what fiddling tel?

[bondy]

Brill for the first time out !

Thanks to mr Collinson ( I think) for the setup advice ! It was really good in the final on what is a very bumpy track. If it goes as good on the smooth stuff then ill be very very happy.

Oh and piping Adam over the line HEHEHEH

[kjuliussen]

Originally Posted by bondy

Brill for the first time out !

Thanks to mr Collinson ( I think) for the setup advice ! It was really good in the final on what is a very bumpy track. If it goes as good on the smooth stuff then ill be very very happy.

Oh and piping Adam over the line HEHEHEH

What kind of setup did you guys end up with on the bumpy track?
I raced mine for the first time today and i was struggeling with the car in the bumpy sections.

[geerno]

Are many people making use of the weight set?

[Hulk]

Theres a few of things you can do to make it better over the bumps.

First off you want to Drill the rear 3 hole pistons to 1.3mm or even 1.4mm if its a really bumpy track. Also drill the front 2 hole pistons to 1.3mm. I ran this set up yesterday at Batley Buggy Club with 30w in the rear and 40w in the front, the car was excellent through the rough sections of the track.

Another thing me and Adam played around with yesterday was anti-squat. We went from running 3 degree to 2 degree and this made a big difference! Instantly you could put the hammer down through the rough sections of the track without the rear end bouncing. Fastest lap times were almost half a second quicker then the previous round using 3 degree.

Also adding the brass weights to the rear will keep the car even more settled and putting your rear camber links on the very bottom hole on the shock tower. Doing this will make the car recover better if it starts getting out of shape.

Hope this helps!

Craig Collinson

[mark christopher]

craig, wat settings would you recomend or suggest as a starting point for worksop indoors?

[Hulk]

Really not sure yet Mark.

Personally ill be starting with my outdoor set up and working from there. Not run the car indoors yet so its a bit of an unknown.

Ill put my outdoor set up on the team durango web site before the Workspo series so you can use this as a starting point. Ill get it fine tuned on the day and put my finishing set up on the web site also.

If you need any help when your there just come over and give me a shout.

Cheers

[njc11]

Originally Posted by Hulk

First off you want to Drill the rear 3 hole pistons to 1.3mm or even 1.4mm if its a really bumpy track. Also drill the front 2 hole pistons to 1.3mm. I ran this set up yesterday at Batley Buggy Club with 30w in the rear and 40w in the front, the car was excellent through the rough sections of the track.

Gave my car a quick go yesterday..

This is exactly where i started.. i've been messing around with pistons and oil to try and get the feel right before its first venture out.. first run felt good.. second run all i did was move the upper rear shock position to the middle hole on the tower (it was on the inside) this stopped the back end from kicking up on one particular area of the track.. The front im inside on tower and outside wisbone..

The car was plenty quick enough, X12 6.5 (20 tooth pinion) with 4200 35c Lipos.. and was extremely quiet, which was a bonus comapared to other duranos ive heard

The day ended though as the grub screw worked loose that holds the rear cvd to the out drive of the rear gearbox.. this buggered up the casing and the part the casing locates on to which is part of the hinged lipo holder.. im sure i threadlocked as i made a point of doing all where needed.. i checked the front gearbox also and this grub screw was loose and you could see threadlock on it... going to have to keep an eye on this.. anyone else had this?

Cheers

Nick

[Hulk]

Hi Nick,

The way to sort this is to make sure the grub screw is on the flat bit of the pin. Make sure you use plenty of thread lock and put a second grub screw on the opposite side.

If you really need to then put some heat shrink around the CVD to cover the pin.

Craig

[geerno]

Originally Posted by njc11

Gave my car a quick go yesterday..

This is exactly where i started.. i've been messing around with pistons and oil to try and get the feel right before its first venture out.. first run felt good.. second run all i did was move the upper rear shock position to the middle hole on the tower (it was on the inside) this stopped the back end from kicking up on one particular area of the track.. The front im inside on tower and outside wisbone..

The car was plenty quick enough, X12 6.5 (20 tooth pinion) with 4200 35c Lipos.. and was extremely quiet, which was a bonus comapared to other duranos ive heard

The day ended though as the grub screw worked loose that holds the rear cvd to the out drive of the rear gearbox.. this buggered up the casing and the part the casing locates on to which is part of the hinged lipo holder.. im sure i threadlocked as i made a point of doing all where needed.. i checked the front gearbox also and this grub screw was loose and you could see threadlock on it... going to have to keep an eye on this.. anyone else had this?

Cheers

Nick

What were the differences in lap times with each of the changes?

Also, I have ad no issues with screws coming loose. I used the pacer blue thread lock on anything that screwed into metal.

[njc11]

Originally Posted by Hulk

Hi Nick,

The way to sort this is to make sure the grub screw is on the flat bit of the pin. Make sure you use plenty of thread lock and put a second grub screw on the opposite side.

If you really need to then put some heat shrink around the CVD to cover the pin.

Craig

Craig,

That bit is all sorted its this grub screw..



Geerno.. I used the car in practice first thing in the morning then before the finals.. so i wasnt timed. The car felt good, this was the first time Ive run the car.. so for actuall racing i was running my Lazer FS.

Cheers

Nick

[Hulk]

Sorry Nick my mistake.

never had a problem with this working loose, again just make sure you use plenty of thread lock.

[njc11]

Originally Posted by Hulk

Sorry Nick my mistake.

never had a problem with this working loose, again just make sure you use plenty of thread lock.

No probs mate...

Ive put loads on the front one and when my parts arrive for the rear one that will be getting a fair amount on to lol.. i'll be keeping an eye on them though..

Cheers again by the way for the lead at Kiddy BRC's

Cheers

Nick

[kjuliussen]

Ok. will test that next time. Thanks..

But what diff setup did you run?

i guess changes to diff oil will matter if you run on bumpy or smooth track. Im thinking thinner oil for bumpy and thicker as the track gets smoother.

[bondy]

Double up on all grub screws driveshafts & cvds etc remember to use the 3*3 mm ones too long and it catches. I have also heat shrinked my main shaft cvd's and i will also be doing the driveshafts after i have visited halfords for a heatshrink kit !

[Hulk]

In terms of diff oils I was using 7,000 in the rear and 12,500 in the front. Im not an expert with diff oils yet but generally if its a high grip track you want to be using heavier oils to produce more drive and visa versa on lower grip tracks.

I wouldnt change oils because of how bumpy the track is, thats more about suspension changes, anti-squat, camber link positions ect.

We will be experimenting with different diff oils throughout the winter and will keep you guys posted as to what does what, so you have a clear understanding of how to set your diffs depending on what surface your racing on.

[JohnM]

Craig, how did you get 2 degrees of anti squat at the rear? the book only shows 0 or 3 degrees.

[carlin]

Originally Posted by bondy

Double up on all grub screws driveshafts & cvds etc remember to use the 3*3 mm ones too long and it catches. I have also heat shrinked my main shaft cvd's and i will also be doing the driveshafts after i have visited halfords for a heatshrink kit !

Bondy,

What heatshrink is everyone using to cover the CVD's etc just wasnt sure

[mark christopher]

i use some from maplins cheap for loads of it