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#1
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FrSky V8HT into futaba 3GR
Hi,
Am fitting the above into my 40meg 3GR and just had a quick question regarding the internal wiring. I understand the wiring required (pos, neg & ppm) but am unsure about disconnecting the original 40meg transmitter board. You see, mine is a fully synthesised version with no xtal to leave out! I'm worried that if I leave it connected it will still try to transmit on 40meg, albeit without its aerial. Should I disconnect one of the wires (or all 3) from the 40meg board so it can't transmit, or not worry? Many thanks in advance! Dave |
#2
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I hacked my 6exa and removed the transmitter board all together then connected the wires to the 2.4.
If your not going to or can't remove it then I would disconnect it so that it it doesn't drain power from your batteries, or poss cause any probs with 2.4... don't know if it could? You can use the plugs from servo extensions if you want to be able to swap from 2.4 to 40 at any point. |
#3
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I was thinking of removing it altogether but there are a lot of wires going to it!
I guess that this is to do with it being synthesised rather than xtal based. Also, I take it that the wire marked PPM/HRC is going to be the PPM wire that I need? Stupid question I know, but you never can tell!!! Dave |
#4
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Hey Dave,
Not 100% sure if that PPM/HRC wire is the PPM one, but it certainly sounds right! lol. Only way to be super sure though is to stick it on an osciliscope to watch the pulse modulations as you operate the transmitter. Failing that, stick it on a voltmeter, delicate settings, and register the voltage spikes. |
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#6
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Cardnim,
Thanks for the link, good info there! What are your thoughts on disconnecting or just splicing into the original wiring on my 3GR?? Dave |
#7
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Not sure Dave. I dont think Ive ever seen inside a 3GR, but as you say, because its synthesised, it makes life a little more complicated.
Do you have a wiring diagram for it, or a photograph of the guts? |
#8
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Right, got it sussed & all working ok!
The wire i was hooked up to was the wrong wire (PPM/HRS). The wire that is needed is a yellow wire marked SIG (for signal i guess?!?). The neg power wire i took from the Black wire going into the 40meg board, marked GND. The pos power wire i took from the Red wire going into the 40meg board, marked VCC. I also disconnected this wire from the 40meg board to stop it transmitting. All in all a really easy conversion. When i get 5 minutes i'll put a full 'how to' inc pics on here that'll hopefully be useful to someone! Dave |
#9
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Well played mate. You must be very pleased!
Good idea stopping the current going to the 40Mhz board - although this wouldnt affect you on the 2.4 spectrum, its not going to help - additionally it may cause interference for anyone actually on the 40Mhz spectrum. If you could remove this board completely, it could be perfect. Is this possible you think? Cheers for the info. |
#10
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Cardnim,
I probably could remove this board completely & chuck it in the bin, but i didn't want to for 2 reasons. 1: There are a total of 9 wires going to the 40meg board. If i removed it completely i would have most of theses wires floating around inside the transmitter not connected to anything! 2: With all due respect to FrSky, I was (maybe still am) a little unsure how good the conversion really is/will be when used in race conditions, so wanted to be able to convert back to 40meg relatively easily if its not up to the task! I may be being harsh on FrSky, but for a complete 2.4Gig conversion £25 delivered seems too good to be true!!! Once i have used it a few times and am convinced that it is up to the task, then maybe i'll remove the 40meg board. But, from what i've seen so far i am impressed! Dave |
#11
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Sounds very reasonable to me mate, though the FrSky system is gaining so much popularity and press because it has such a good reputation for the price.
If you check out this video, this is what first put it in my wish list. This guy knows his stuff (big time!) and does a side by side comparison with other more expensive systems - even removing a Turnigy 2.4Ghz system and replacing it with FrSky because its so much better: But I hope you'll find this out for yourself anyways. Good luck racing with the new system. May all your times be TQ's!!! |
#12
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Cheers Cardnim!
Already seen that video, he does seem to know his stuff! Don't get me wrong, there is nothing about the product itself that has made me think it won't be any good. Not that long ago i tried one of the Code 2.4 stick sets, it worked perfectly as long as you were racing on your own! As soon as there were 5 or 6 other (better) 2.4 radios running in close proximity it started to drop its signal. That's why it went straight back to the shop! Just plays on my mind that it'll happen again, but that's probably just me being silly! As soon as i test it properly (this coming sunday @ Aldershot MCC) i'll report back Dave 'TQ here I come!' Feast |
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Quote:
Will now order a set. One Question though, did you have to set the transmitter into ppm mode before hand or is it already there out of the box? ****UPDATE**** frsky set now ordered :-)
__________________
Answer RC SWorkz 35-3 SWorkz 350T SWorkz S12-2 Instagram: crazylthirteen Blogger: http://the-croucher.blogspot.co.uk/ |
#15
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Hi all
FrSky module all fitted in to the 3GR and bound up and installed in the 410. If i had thought about it i would have taken pics of the interior install but just wanted to the job done. 1st pic up, the bind button and led on the tranny: [IMG][/IMG] ..and here's the install in the Durango, loving the receiver, so small.: [IMG][/IMG] How I did do it though, was I slid the 40 meg board out of the way, undid the aerial, undid the tiny cross head screw that is sort of behind the "Futaba 3GR" shiny badge on the front and trimmed off the bit of plastic is was holding down, only down to where it gets wider. Also hacked off the nobble the screw threads into. this made room for the binding button and led board. The aerial mound was done by dremmelling down the nob where the aerial comes out, making it flush with the top, hopefully you can see this from the pic, this gave enough thread to do up the brass mount and do the folding aerial up nice and tight. The hack module simply sits behind the 40 meg board as there is ample room, oh, and the wires were soldered on. Result. All works, will be testing trackside soon, although judging by reports from others on here, there's nowt to worry about.
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Answer RC SWorkz 35-3 SWorkz 350T SWorkz S12-2 Instagram: crazylthirteen Blogger: http://the-croucher.blogspot.co.uk/ |
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