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#1
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durga spares
hiya lads n lasses as a few of you run durga's at the club i was wondering if you could post what are the weak points, what spares are needed and what upgrades to fit for a beginner on a limited budget and where to get them from :S
cheers all
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Nathan Ralls HPI, Custom Blitz, www.piraterc.com mr-o foams woop woop racing officialy keeping team toe out inline |
#2
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Poor shocks and its the arm mount blocks that we sell most of tbh, as it uses plastic pivit balls in plastic mounts.
You may find using the metals balls from a TRF tourer will cure this. |
#3
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Since getting his Durga, Shorty has done the following;
Broken 1 front wishbone. Popped the hinge pins out many times until I fitted the alloy suspension blocks. Bent innumerable shock screws. Chewed one spur and melted one diff. Not bad when you consider his crash rate. He also destroys front wheel hexes with alarming regularity, but i suspect that has more to do with his throttle happy driving style and a one way diff. His car has almost every conceivable option fitted, but IMHO the only ones you require are the suspension blocks and slipper clutch.
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pm me bitch, or is it past your bedtime?
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#4
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Other essentials (unless you are running a silvercan motor) are the single slipper clutch and a set of decent shocks, preferably Tamiya TRF ones (part #54028) although they are a little long for the rear - see the many posts on this subject in the Tamiya section. Now cured with an Atomic Carbon tower but that was a limited group buy that closed a couple of days ago. Mount the rear wing about 5mm further back than the dimples indicate to take it away from the rear tower too, and watch the diff build sequence, there is a "flip part over" arrow in the drawing that many miss which causes problems later on in the build. Oh, and get some decent tyres of your choice, the kit ones are OK for bashing though. Everything else is pure bling, it's really a very capable car in the right hands. You can of course go overboard with the following if you are loaded/bored. Centre one way or front one way. Double slipper clutch (not with centre one way though) CVD's front and rear or the new Wide Operating angle CVD's and front hubs (totally unnecessary, its a very "pointy" car already). Ti turnbuckles. Blue motor mount. Carbon reinforced chassis. Carbon reinforced gearbox covers. Blue servo mounts. Blue heatsink (for carbon chassis only) Belt tensioners (waste of money-don't even consider them). Heavy duty ball ends. Aluminium 501X steering bridge. As to where to get stuff, like many Tamiya runners, I found importing WAS easier as a lot of the stuff took ages to get to the UK once it had been released in Japan, then it was twice the price too. I built mine up when it was $2 to £1. Now its a different story altogether and I have to shop around carefully to avoid spending too much but thankfully its not a particularly expensive car to run (B4 front arms anybody ). |
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