View Full Version : X-6 squared lipo mounting screws.....
Northy
11-03-2009, 12:13 PM
So what is everyone using?
The kit supplied 1" button head screws?
Thumb screws?
What else?
How much clearance is there to the shell with a "BIG" lipo?:confused:
Cheers,
G
jono83
11-03-2009, 12:20 PM
So what is everyone using?
The kit supplied 1" button head screws?
Thumb screws?
What else?
How much clearance is there to the shell with a "BIG" lipo?:confused:
Cheers,
G
not enough to use thumb screws as they hit the shell
Tom3012
11-03-2009, 12:32 PM
I was looking at one the other day, i think you can use thumb screws on the back but not on the front (if using a "big" lipo)
However, i was thinking that it may be possibe to cut the front holes and make them a slot, so all you have to do is unscrew the rear thumb screws and slide out the strap... if that makes sense?
bigred5765
11-03-2009, 12:37 PM
as tom said you can use them on the rear but not the front, i reckon cut the shell below the cut lines and you'll be ok.
were going to slot the front of the battery bar, then use counter sunk screws,and use thumb screws on the rear.
super__dan
11-03-2009, 01:05 PM
G , good question I was going to talk to you about this on Sunday.
First thing to say is that the chassis dimensions were designed when we were only using smaller Lipo's and at the time 5000mah was the max we expected Lipos to go due to the rules.
Currently I have some longer screws in mine but need some more (G - Sunday?). My current plan is screws in the front holes but thumbscrews at the back, which will clear fine. There is a chance that when the shell bounces around in a crash etc the front corners of the brace will rub the shell (and paint) on the shell. I have some tuff stuff (kind of thing) on the inside of mine and anyone that wants any can get a couple of squares off me anytime they see me (I'm NOT posting this out).
Personally I'd prefer countersunk screws as they don't need an aditional washer and help to self centre the brace holes.
Does that make sence?
super__dan
11-03-2009, 01:06 PM
I started writing that above 1/2 hour ago hence it looks out of date. The other option is slotting the front of the strap. Depends if you want to 'stress' the battery strap or not.
Northy
11-03-2009, 01:12 PM
Thanks for the reply guys.
So.... to change my question slightly......
If you were buying a screw kit for the X-6^2 what screws would YOU like to see included for lipo strap fixing? :confused::confused:;);)
G
bigred5765
11-03-2009, 01:16 PM
at least 1" long and cs for the front, with threaded bar for the rear as long as possible 1"
Tom3012
11-03-2009, 01:30 PM
as tom said you can use them on the rear but not the front, i reckon cut the shell below the cut lines and you'll be ok.
were going to slot the front of the battery bar, then use counter sunk screws,and use thumb screws on the rear.
wohoo i was right for once :p
Darren Boyle
11-03-2009, 01:50 PM
Guys when you "slot" the strap at the front do so , so that it slides in from left to right (or right to left whichever you prefer) as this will then retian any back and forth strength that the strap gives to the torsional rigidity of the chassis (if that makes sense - in less posh terms, to help prevent unwanted "flex" or bend on the chassis on heavy landings.
This will be a big help in the long run for those who slot and will also "help out" with a few forthcoming "future releases" that are coming for the car shortly in the form of optional add ons :o ;) watch this space
Tom3012
11-03-2009, 02:21 PM
didnt think of slotting the sides :thumbsup:
mark christopher
11-03-2009, 09:28 PM
Guys when you "slot" the strap at the front do so , so that it slides in from left to right (or right to left whichever you prefer) as this will then retian any back and forth strength that the strap gives to the torsional rigidity of the chassis (if that makes sense - in less posh terms, to help prevent unwanted "flex" or ebmd on the chassis on heavy landings.
This will be a big help in the long run for those who slot and will also "help out" with a few forthcoming "future releases" that are coming for the car shortly in the form of optional add ons :o ;) watch this space
question
if the strap is a brace and your saying dont slot front to rear, wont slotting side ways allow the chassis to flex, much like xray did with thier tc, by removing screws?
Graham, you can see some info as to screw length here:
http://www.ymr.no/10orTip4.htm
As to fitting bigger cells it's not really possible I think...
Just my 5 cents
Darren Boyle
11-03-2009, 11:32 PM
question
if the strap is a brace and your saying dont slot front to rear, wont slotting side ways allow the chassis to flex, much like xray did with thier tc, by removing screws?
Maybe....but not the reason why I posted what I did.
The load from side to side on the strap (and chassis) is nowhere near as much as from front to back from big air heavy landings where you could "pop" the battery strap out with flex alone
mark christopher
12-03-2009, 11:18 AM
cheers darren for the answer, to sum up do you recomend slotting the strap or not? or would unslotted and a screw body clip like the associated battery strap be better?
Big E
12-03-2009, 01:54 PM
cheers darren for the answer, to sum up do you recomend slotting the strap or not? or would unslotted and a screw body clip like the associated battery strap be better?
If you are going to slot it then do it left to right as there is something coming out that will not be so good if it is slotted front/back.
I'm surprised no one had asked what the 2 holes are for ont he strap to be honest but all will become clear very soon.
Personnally as I only take mine out at most once a meeting I just use 4 screws.
E.
Tom3012
12-03-2009, 02:01 PM
If you are going to slot it then do it left to right as there is something coming out that will not be so good if it is slotted front/back.
I'm surprised no one had asked what the 2 holes are for ont he strap to be honest but all will become clear very soon.
Personnally as I only take mine out at most once a meeting I just use 4 screws.
E.
I thought maybe PT mount?
mark christopher
12-03-2009, 02:07 PM
must be some form of front/rear brace????
jono83
12-03-2009, 02:47 PM
thats what i was thinking
Darren Boyle
12-03-2009, 03:25 PM
If you are going to slot it then do it left to right as there is something coming out that will not be so good if it is slotted front/back.
I'm surprised no one had asked what the 2 holes are for ont he strap to be honest but all will become clear very soon.
Personnally as I only take mine out at most once a meeting I just use 4 screws.
E.
Cheers E, now you can share the blame with me for leaking it when Chazz finds out :p
Northy
12-03-2009, 03:28 PM
Tranny brace..... ;)
G
Paul_Sinclair
12-03-2009, 03:33 PM
I know what it is too! :p
jono83
12-03-2009, 03:40 PM
tell us all!
Mike Hudson
12-03-2009, 03:50 PM
Brace and or fan mount for motor
super__dan
12-03-2009, 03:51 PM
Key ring holder? ;)
Northy
12-03-2009, 04:04 PM
So have I:p
Mike Hudson
12-03-2009, 04:17 PM
Key ring holder? ;)
bottle opener :confused:
bigred5765
12-03-2009, 04:18 PM
it's two holes for
two screws :)
MHeadling
12-03-2009, 04:39 PM
Furry Dice Mount?!!
Darren Boyle
12-03-2009, 04:47 PM
Key ring holder? ;)
Dan, you're in trouble now..........
jono83
12-03-2009, 04:48 PM
:lol::lol:
Northy
12-03-2009, 05:01 PM
Anyway...... back on topic......
What screws..... :eh?:
Big hard long screws :thumbsup:
Spencer Mulcahy
12-03-2009, 05:34 PM
Is this going to be another must have hop up thats not needed.:p:p:lol:
super__dan
12-03-2009, 05:36 PM
1 1/4 inch CS?
Darren Boyle
12-03-2009, 07:08 PM
Is this going to be another must have hop up thats not needed.:p:p:lol:
Wont fit a B4 :p, and not essential on an X6 either :D. Just making sure that we keep up with AE on tuning options..... ;)
YoungChazz
13-03-2009, 04:44 PM
We do NOT reccommend slotting the strap. E, as usual, is correct, the Squared is designed for put in the pack and never take it out ever. Pack has not been out of my personal 60 in six months. The strap functions as a top deck both laterally and fore & aft., especially fore & aft as Darren says. Any slots will greatly reduce that effect.
In some parts of the world you must remove the packs for charging, and many people use two packs. We are making an optional part which will allow easier removal of the pack yet still fit under the shell. Components are on order, and hopefully will be in stock soon after I return from Cactus. You will not need to slot the strap for fairly simple removal, and if you do slot it, you probably will want to get a new one = expensive.
And yes, again the parts should be waiting for us when we return from Cactus for a new Dirtz Dialed Part that you will want. The two holes in the strap are for the new part, so obviously we've been planning on it. And if you have carefully watched various news stories, you have seen it. The Boyz have the production prototypes for testing now. And again, you wil want a perfectly-fitting strong battery strap for the new D.D.P. part to be effective.
So our suggestion for now is don't slot it, don't screw with thumb screws on the two outside bolts so you save that great paint job, and don't take the pack out any more than you have to so you don't wear out the threads in the chassis.
B.T.W. the whole reason for the "problem" is that we designed this thing as a truck first, and no issue there. Then we did the buggy; since there was no issue with the truck we didn't think about it, and here we are. We're certainly not perfect... We know about the "problem," and we're working on it.
bald eagle
13-03-2009, 05:07 PM
We do NOT reccommend slotting the strap. E, as usual, is correct, the Squared is designed for put in the pack and never take it out ever. Pack has not been out of my personal 60 in six months. The strap functions as a top deck both laterally and fore & aft., especially fore & aft as Darren says. Any slots will greatly reduce that effect.
In some parts of the world you must remove the packs for charging, and many people use two packs. We are making an optional part which will allow easier removal of the pack yet still fit under the shell. Components are on order, and hopefully will be in stock soon after I return from Cactus. You will not need to slot the strap for fairly simple removal, and if you do slot it, you probably will want to get a new one = expensive.
And yes, again the parts should be waiting for us when we return from Cactus for a new Dirtz Dialed Part that you will want. The two holes in the strap are for the new part, so obviously we've been planning on it. And if you have carefully watched various news stories, you have seen it. The Boyz have the production prototypes for testing now. And again, you wil want a perfectly-fitting strong battery strap for the new D.D.P. part to be effective.
So our suggestion for now is don't slot it, don't screw with thumb screws on the two outside bolts so you save that great paint job, and don't take the pack out any more than you have to so you don't wear out the threads in the chassis.
B.T.W. the whole reason for the "problem" is that we designed this thing as a truck first, and no issue there. Then we did the buggy; since there was no issue with the truck we didn't think about it, and here we are. We're certainly not perfect... We know about the "problem," and we're working on it.
WWWWWWOOOOOOOHHHHOOOOO!!! glad I read this.. just ordered my new strap from DMS. No slotted strap for me matey! :p
bald eagle
13-03-2009, 05:13 PM
Has anybody got any pics of how they have done it???? GIZ A BUTCHERS MR?! :woot:
Spoolio
13-03-2009, 05:16 PM
B.T.W. the whole reason for the "problem" is that we designed this thing as a truck first, and no issue there. Then we did the buggy; since there was no issue with the truck we didn't think about it, and here we are. We're certainly not perfect... We know about the "problem," and we're working on it.
Chazz, you've acknowledged some concerns (real or not) and given an honest response. I recommend you do not enter politics, you'd be crap at it mate :lol:.
Chazz, have you got our podcast from the clash ? :lol::thumbsup:
YoungChazz
14-03-2009, 12:23 AM
Sadly, and I do mean sadly, all the Clash podcasts were lost.
YoungChazz
14-03-2009, 07:00 AM
Thanks for the kind words, Spoolio. We're mortal men just like you, and we make mistakes. The only question is do we admit them and try to fix them or live in some kind of a denial-thing world?
We want the Family to have the easiest-to-drive yet fastest car out there and will do whatever we can to give it to you. If we do our very best, mistakes and all, to give that to you consistantly, we think you'll have fun and we'll do OK in the long run.
sime46
14-03-2009, 09:33 AM
Good one Chazz. In my squared6, I run the lrp 5300 and it sits too high for the strap to locate on its locaters properly. I've been thinking about dremeling the ribs out of the bottom of the battery box to allow it to drop in so the strap fits as intended, but......do I really want to cut those ribs out? Will it drastically effect the chassis? I did a similar thing on my previous X-6 and it was fine, but everyone on here said it was a bad idea. I only read the info after I'd gone at it with the dremel:blush:. I dont want to make the same mistake again, but what can I do to solve this? I have already slotted my strap a little at the front to allow easy battery removal. Then I read what you boys said about the strap and not to cut into it :blush::blush:. Oops again. I love the squared and want to get it right so any input is gratefully received.:thumbsup:
Mike Hudson
14-03-2009, 10:04 AM
don't cut the ribs! unless you want a flexitastic chassis :woot:
jono83
14-03-2009, 10:38 AM
don't cut the ribs! unless you want a flexitastic chassis :woot:
I saw a chassis snap clean in half with the ribs dremmeled out
big air
14-03-2009, 12:28 PM
Good one Chazz. In my squared6, I run the lrp 5300 and it sits too high for the strap to locate on its locaters properly. I've been thinking about dremeling the ribs out of the bottom of the battery box to allow it to drop in so the strap fits as intended, but......do I really want to cut those ribs out? Will it drastically effect the chassis? I did a similar thing on my previous X-6 and it was fine, but everyone on here said it was a bad idea. I only read the info after I'd gone at it with the dremel:blush:. I dont want to make the same mistake again, but what can I do to solve this? I have already slotted my strap a little at the front to allow easy battery removal. Then I read what you boys said about the strap and not to cut into it :blush::blush:. Oops again. I love the squared and want to get it right so any input is gratefully received.:thumbsup:
Bollocks ive just ordered mine and 5200 vampires i hope they fit :o
Darren Boyle
14-03-2009, 01:33 PM
Myself, Tom, Dan and Mat all run 5200's and they fit just fine
Here is a picture of Dan's car with Vampire 5200 installed, no problem
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/super__dan/Picture004-2.jpg
More pictures in this thread here - http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19226&page=3
Cheers, Darren
grelland
14-03-2009, 01:36 PM
I am about to buy lipos for the summer's season, and is there a list of what packs that fit and thos who dont?
Or is it simply so that the car is designed for the same mechanical dimensions on the packs as for.excample the EFRA rules for lipos?
sime46
14-03-2009, 02:00 PM
The LRP's do fit very well, so please dont think there is a problem. The car will accomodate any lipo without any issues. My comments were just that bigger lipo's stand a splash higher so the battery brace doesn't mate fully onto the raised bosses on the chassis. The LRP's in my standard squared fit lovely and dont move a mm when screwed in as per the manual. It could be lowered a tad if the ribs weren't there, but the advice I'm taking is leave the ribs intact. For the record, I've ran my squared twice on indoor mixed surface and it already feels better than the predecessor in my own opinion. Maybe I'm closer to getting the set up right and its only a coincidence but I'm absolutely loving the car. Hope that clears it up...all lipo sticks WILL deffo fit in correctly.:thumbsup:
Spoolio
15-03-2009, 08:34 PM
G, clear your PM's dude, your box is full :o.
Tom3012
15-03-2009, 10:30 PM
ohhh i know what the two holse are for.... wasnt the part on BK's X6? ;)
jono83
16-03-2009, 09:33 AM
there is a pic of it on dans car in the super cup report
mark christopher
17-03-2009, 09:43 PM
there is a pic of it on dans car in the super cup report
and here
http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/supercup2009/OOP_9909.jpg
super__dan
17-03-2009, 11:23 PM
Nice isn't it!
Chazz, am I in trouble? ;)
jono83
18-03-2009, 08:22 AM
Did you find it helped dan did it make a noticeable difference to handling characteristics?
super__dan
18-03-2009, 08:36 AM
I didn't really run it back to back on the weekend to be honest so can't really comment. I can say though it noticably stiffens the back end up (possible strength improvement too but that's not really an issue). Loose motor clamp T peices should be a thing of the past I imagine.
It obviously makes changing cells a fraction slower but personally with the 5200mah Vampire cells I'm running I'm not actually planning on changing cells at all in my 2wd as they normally top up in 1/2 hour and even if they've not fully charged, the'll be close enough not to ever need to worry in 2wd for certain.
jono83
18-03-2009, 09:48 AM
Yeah for certain I find that I am only using about 16-1800mah per run jus top then up a little between runs
grelland
10-04-2009, 02:37 PM
Here's a couple of shots of my "old" X6 prepared for lipos using the positivio-negativio battery strap.
I will clean up the wiring as soon as I have the lipos in-house...
I have placed lead under the ESC, and the total weight is about 1700g with cells and the weight distribution is 37/63.
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