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X-6 squared lipo mounting screws.....
So what is everyone using?
The kit supplied 1" button head screws? Thumb screws? What else? How much clearance is there to the shell with a "BIG" lipo?:confused: Cheers, G |
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I was looking at one the other day, i think you can use thumb screws on the back but not on the front (if using a "big" lipo)
However, i was thinking that it may be possibe to cut the front holes and make them a slot, so all you have to do is unscrew the rear thumb screws and slide out the strap... if that makes sense? |
as tom said you can use them on the rear but not the front, i reckon cut the shell below the cut lines and you'll be ok.
were going to slot the front of the battery bar, then use counter sunk screws,and use thumb screws on the rear. |
G , good question I was going to talk to you about this on Sunday.
First thing to say is that the chassis dimensions were designed when we were only using smaller Lipo's and at the time 5000mah was the max we expected Lipos to go due to the rules. Currently I have some longer screws in mine but need some more (G - Sunday?). My current plan is screws in the front holes but thumbscrews at the back, which will clear fine. There is a chance that when the shell bounces around in a crash etc the front corners of the brace will rub the shell (and paint) on the shell. I have some tuff stuff (kind of thing) on the inside of mine and anyone that wants any can get a couple of squares off me anytime they see me (I'm NOT posting this out). Personally I'd prefer countersunk screws as they don't need an aditional washer and help to self centre the brace holes. Does that make sence? |
I started writing that above 1/2 hour ago hence it looks out of date. The other option is slotting the front of the strap. Depends if you want to 'stress' the battery strap or not.
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Thanks for the reply guys.
So.... to change my question slightly...... If you were buying a screw kit for the X-6^2 what screws would YOU like to see included for lipo strap fixing? :confused::confused:;);) G |
at least 1" long and cs for the front, with threaded bar for the rear as long as possible 1"
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wohoo i was right for once :p |
Guys when you "slot" the strap at the front do so , so that it slides in from left to right (or right to left whichever you prefer) as this will then retian any back and forth strength that the strap gives to the torsional rigidity of the chassis (if that makes sense - in less posh terms, to help prevent unwanted "flex" or bend on the chassis on heavy landings.
This will be a big help in the long run for those who slot and will also "help out" with a few forthcoming "future releases" that are coming for the car shortly in the form of optional add ons :o ;) watch this space |
didnt think of slotting the sides :thumbsup:
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if the strap is a brace and your saying dont slot front to rear, wont slotting side ways allow the chassis to flex, much like xray did with thier tc, by removing screws? |
Graham, you can see some info as to screw length here:
http://www.ymr.no/10orTip4.htm As to fitting bigger cells it's not really possible I think... Just my 5 cents |
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The load from side to side on the strap (and chassis) is nowhere near as much as from front to back from big air heavy landings where you could "pop" the battery strap out with flex alone |
cheers darren for the answer, to sum up do you recomend slotting the strap or not? or would unslotted and a screw body clip like the associated battery strap be better?
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I'm surprised no one had asked what the 2 holes are for ont he strap to be honest but all will become clear very soon. Personnally as I only take mine out at most once a meeting I just use 4 screws. E. |
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must be some form of front/rear brace????
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thats what i was thinking
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