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#2
04-01-2013
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Capacity means the same as NiMh's is, 5000Mah etc
Race buggy packs are generally 2cell (eg, "2S"), but you can get 1 cell (2S), 3 cell (3S) & 4 cell (4S) packs. The "C" number is the packs discharge rate (the higher this number the more 'punch' the pack will offer so, a 25C pack will have less 'punch' than a 90C pack. During charging you'll normally charge at a rate of 1A ie, if you have a 2500Mah pack you'd normally set the charger to charge at 2.5A, a 5000Mah pack can be charged at a rate of up to 5A etc. You can charge a 5000Mah pack at a lower rate eg, 3A, it'll just take longer but you shouldn't charge at too higher rate eg, a 3000Mah pack at 5A. You should never over discharge lipos ! Each cell is 3.7v (so a race pack being a 2 cell, or '2S' is 7.4v) When a 2S pack is fully charged it'll actually peak at around 8.4v (4.2v/cell), your ESC should have a low voltage cut off function normally set around 3.6v (per cell) to prevent the pack from being damaged permanently. A 5min race with a 2wd running a 5000Mah/30c pack & 7.5T motor will see the pack typically drop to roughly 7.8-8v (3.9v-4v/cell). You should make sure you're ESC has a low voltage cut, if not you can buy a seperate 'lvc' switch. Regarding storage, people say different things, I tend to store them at a 'post race' voltage ie, 7.8-8v/pack. Hope this helps.
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TLR 22 3.0/3300kv brushless Lunchbox/Helion 2wd sct/Dromida MT4.18/Orlandoo F-150/Mardave Cobra/Re-re Cat xls w/uprated tranny/Re-re Top Force/Carisma GT24R http://www.norfolkbuggyclub.moonfruit.com/ 
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#4
04-01-2013
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Brca advise no more than 1c so 5000 pack 5 amps.
The higher c rating is the discharge rate its capable of, you do not needto discharge/cycle Lipo either
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MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD
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#5
04-01-2013
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Great reply from dandare, there are 2 C numbers to be aware of - the discharge number, 25C 90C etc, a discharge number (higher 'burst' number is sometimes also quoted) and The C number used for charging, we charge at 1C so as above a 5000 mAh battery is charged at 5amps and will take less than an hour etc.
There are no tricks to lipo's, none of that old nimh/nicad marlarky, it's an easy life - charge, race, top up. race again - yes you can manage a meeting on one battery. Must use a dedicated lipo charger, they take a charge in a different way, as above do not allow to over discharge, have seen flat lipo's from being left in a car connected with the switch off etc, if they over discharge a lipo charger will refuse to charge them. There are sacks & box's for placing the batteries in when charging in case of problems and you may be expected to use one. Now you will want to know about brushless motors, 2.4 radio's and what to do with your time between heats.
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#7
04-01-2013
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Broadly, think of the motor inside out, com becomes a high tec rare earth magnet, coils go in the can, all controlled by magic in the esc. no brushes, just a couple of bearings to oil if you are realy looking for something to do. some esc's come with usb & software to adjust settings, matching motor & esc combo is common but not obligatory. 2 flavors sensored & unsensored, sensored have an extra bunch of cables and are smoother (get sensored). Mostly 3 wires between esc & motor. Fit and forget - almost.
Turns have different terms, think 6.5 2WD and 5.5 4WD but look around. 2.4ghz radio's may have 99 channels, will bond to your car and you don't need crystals, no glitching, no clashing, switch car to on, chuck it down, wander off, switch on tranny - off you go - how cool is that. This means that not a lot of crystal based handsets are used so there is less clashing on fm now as well if you still have that old transmitter. get down to a local club and ask around, lots of advice and help, possibility of good secondhand gear as well. Enjoy, lots of racers coming back after a break, remember that lipo batteries need to be BRCA approved to use at BRCA events, club may allow others, but the list is long and will be updated for 2013 (existing batteries will stay on the list), get a charger that will balance, and possibly one that is dual voltage. Lipo's are half the weight of old cells, allows the car to fly, will run full power for 5 minute race and then again perhaps, the lighter weight allows lumps of brass or lead to be placed in the car to help with balance/set up or something. Shocks are better, lots of carbon fibre and high tec bits, what more do you need.
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#9
04-01-2013
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Quote:
You can also still use brushed motors if you want. Just that brushless are low maintenance compared to them. The deals would just save you a few quid on the combined price. You can use most things together but will be limited by the power output of the Esc as to what motor you can use. I'd suggest something like a 7.5t or 8.5t brushless.
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#11
04-01-2013
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Quote:
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MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD
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#12
04-01-2013
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Yes stick with the Vantage, will be great, there is a post with a cheap hack (here) to convert to 2.4 but the receivers may not be as robust as you may be used to (flight stuff) but works for a lot of racers, I don't think you will find as many on the rostrum with clashing crystals.
Combi's may be a bit cheaper than 2 box's and you know if there are problems it's not because, but I am sure there are name brands you know and good value brands you don't. Whatever you decide there is money to be spent, if you feel you are in for a while then good kit is worth having.
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#16
05-01-2013
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The (here) bit in my post above was/is a link to the FrSky conversions.
There seem to be more brushless systems around than ever, Novak, Orion, Tenkin, the Losi stuff and on to the Hobbywing and Ezrun systems. I am sure there is other stuff coming out of Asia under all sorts of names, even the ready to run cars have low power combo's fitted.
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