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#22
29-04-2010
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as the saying goes "there are no stupid questions only stupid answers" again thanks to the people here who actually want to help, your tips are more than welcome and will try them out next time around on the track 
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#23
29-04-2010
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It's a bit like calling up the doctor on the telephone and saying, "my arm hurts" without offering any further information so as to progress a proper diagnosis...... that's all 
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#24
29-04-2010
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I am aware of that point you're making
just trying to get my head around a good average starting setup like you said it's not easy, both to pilot and to setup the chassis experimenting with setups is fine, but knowing where to start is crucial. I have enough experience driving (did win one race in the rookie class last time around) to know when the setup is way off or when the error is from me piloting fixing the bad spot in the setup is another thing... but I think i'll sort it out next time on the track with the tips from here combined with the advice from the other b44 drivers at the track
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#25
29-04-2010
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Could be your speedo: With the Hotwire you can choose between "Dual Mode"
and "Sensored". Sensored is said to be punchier, so if you have it in Sensored you could try Dual Mode to tame the throttle. Otherwise post your exact setup or let the guys at your track have a look or a go with your car.
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#26
29-04-2010
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Have you tried "paddle tyres" like dune buggies use?
Might work for you in sand.......
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#28
30-04-2010
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The reason for my ever so slightly sarcastic tone is because as others have mentioned, you've given no indication as to what your setup is at present, or what you're trying to achieve! Do you just want a straight line launch - i.e. as in drag racing? Are you looking for a car that will handle well on a course laid out on sand? You're trying to achieve something very difficult as the surface you're "racing" on is constantly shifting. If you regard grains of sand as miniature ball bearings, and you're trying to get grip on this, then you're going to have a hard time indeed. As long as your diffs and slipper are set as they should be (and it's hard to explain to a newcomer how that should be - better off getting someone at your local club to show you) the secret to getting your car not to snake is going to be more to do with your inexperienced thumbs rather than any main setup feature. Try experimenting too - it's a good way to learn - rather than hoping someone can wave the magic wand to your problem. Someone else may be able to benefit from your findings - not that many people race on sand I imagine as it's hardly an ideal racing surface.......
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#29
30-04-2010
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I am aware of the pilot error thumb thing you're refering to (like i posted more than once already)
no need to be persistantly sarcastic about that imho but apart from that it does seem wise to get more of an understanding of the car setup, right ? I'm sure improving my driving skills and car setup skills will complement each other. i don't see what's wrong about asking for basic guideline diff. setup tips on this forum...? not asking for the magic solution, just looking for a good solid average diff setup to start with and go from there to make minor changes to see what works best. The prevoius tips and links already given above will give me plenty to test next time around on the track.
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#30
30-04-2010
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Post the setup your running at the moment on here then people may be able to give you a bit more " refined " advice.
Ben
__________________
Schumacher Racing - Reedy - Schelle - TKR - Bandicoot Bodies - MIP - Nextlevelrc - Trishbits - Moss Models
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#32
30-04-2010
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#33
30-04-2010
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#34
30-04-2010
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The guy didn't ask for a detailed analysis of his setup. Why do you guys have such a problem with giving him some general setup tips that could help him with this aspect of handling (rear traction issues)? Obviously, the more information he could give you the better you can help him. But it seems pretty clear to me he doesn't want details like change your caster block from X degrees, to X degres... He just wants some general advice... And all I read is a lot of scorning and preaching...
Sorry guys, but it's friday and it just got to me... Peace... 
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#35
30-04-2010
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 if you really need more info and if you think it might help giving me the advice i'm looking for, pls do here it goes : car is setup mostly in "factory settings" and has no hopups apart from the AE stabeliser kit (silver thick one on rear, black on front) the diff's and slipper clutch : they've loosend slightly running in the car so now it's hard to say exactly how they compare to the original user manual settings, checking them the front is tighter then the rear but both of them are rather on the looser side. track is combination of wornout (outdoor) astro turf, hardpack sand and loose fine sand mostly in corners, so the surface is constantly changing i'm running with the fastest rookies laptime wise (even winning occasionaly) but i'm 1-2 secs off from the more experienced riders in the non rookie classes (so i guess it's fair to say my driving skills are average and I am able to get the car around the track in a propper manner) I would guess i'm able to gain 1.5 secs just by improving my driving skills and getting to know the track better, and 0.5 sec by better setting up the car. the whole lap the car is running fine grip wise one uphil corner with loose sand is always getting me compared to the other b44 I have to loosen the throttle to much to gain grip again, car is "almost doing donuts" having to countersteer hard to keep going. resulting in lesser throttle... until the other (rookie) drivers seem to go trough this part with much less effort and gaining time again on me. now one could easily go on saying this is another "newby driving error blaming the setup case" but seeing the "slower rookies" going trough this section with lesser effort and the more experienced drivers saying to sort out the diff's has led me to ask for some pointers here on this forum It would be greatly appreciated to hear some toughts on some "rules of thumb" to start tweaking/testing the diffs for example : when driving in low grip sandy surface tightning the front/rear diff will result in more/less snaking in loose sand tightning/ loosening up both diff's result in lesser/more grip andwatnot...
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#36
30-04-2010
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At the same time, without addressing "details like change your caster block from X degrees, to X degres" any other magic wand type changes are pretty much pointless, as has been suggested, because any racer would know that on-track handling/traction issues can come from a lot of things and there is no simple answer to potentially complex dilemnas. And as a result it COULD be anything from heavy handed throttle control, overdriving the car, poor set-up, mis-weighted shock oil, poor spring choice, mis-adjust or dirty slipper or diffs, or even poor choice of tires. Nobody knows. It was suggested earlier "there are no stupid questions, just stupid answers" -- yet at the same time overlooking the fact, or as was told to a class by one of my college profs, "that when you ask simple/stupid questions it's because you haven't thought out your query well enough and as a result there really are no good answers to the question." So, again, as I see it - it's a bit like calling up the doctor on the telephone and saying, "my arm hurts" without offering any further information so as to aid the doc in progressing a proper diagnosis...... that's all 
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#37
30-04-2010
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well there's some more info now...
pls focus on the diffs suggestions/rules of thumb for now if that ain't working after testing the suggestions one can look to other possible solutions right ? simply saying (and repeating) there's is more to it, is true will not solve my problem
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#38
30-04-2010
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#39
30-04-2010
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One very easy thing to try - ask to borrow someone else's car for a few laps.
If you can drive it fine - it's YOUR car setup. If it handles as YOUR car does - it's your thumbs. Simples.
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#40
30-04-2010
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2) it appears that you're trying to replicate lap times of the more experienced racers, and while it's something to shoot for (when you get more experience) using their times as a comparison is just going to leave you frustrated -- nothing replaces experience, and the experienced guys likely have years of time behind the wheel/sticks....and IMHO it's the worst mistake newbies/rookies make, trying to go as fast as the fast guys. 3) part of racing, and setting up a car, is about "compromise" - how experienced guys set up a car is to have certain sections where the car is set optimally for, and other sections where they're forced to give up a little (relative to their gains elsewhere). Quote:
There is an old, and often used, expression that comes to mind, "You have to go slow to be fast" - and what that means, and what your complaint calls to mind, is that you're overdriving the car .... too much throttle, too much power, too much steering input - all resulting in you being fast in the fast sections, but being all over the place and slow in the slower (dustier, dirtier) sections. LET OFF THE GAS FOR CRIPES SAKE AND LET THE CAR MAKE A SET, and learn to properly modulate the throttle. Again, nothing replaces experience. For example, it seems that every time I go to the track some rookie/newbie will be on the driver stand next to me during practice, and he'll complain when I blow past him through a particularly slow section of the track - and he'll ask me to give his car a go for a lap or two, to "see what I think." I'll blast around for a lap or two, hand him back the controls and say "yeah, that works pretty good," and they'll look back at me and say "my gawd, you drove it like it was on rails. how come it doesn't work that good when I'm driving it?" and my only response is to tell them "you need to slow down." Another typical rookie mistake is their motor choice, as they seem to pick the faster mills and the highest powered batteries all under the auspices of going fast - when in reality it's like giving a kid that just got their driver's license a brand new Ferrari. Facts are, in the greater scheme of RCing and racing, you've still got the training wheels on your bike - and likely would benefit from going to a slower motor/batt combo under the auspices of slowing down to learn proper car control. I've seen very few situations where a car, especially a 4wd car, suffers with traction issues with a "stock" motor and battery type of set-up under the bonnet. But, the one final thing you've apparently missed in all of this is three-fold: you haven't consulted any of the "slower rookies" to see how their set-ups might be aiding them in getting through your problem section a bit faster, we still have no idea what you're using relative to shock oil or springs (or if you've bothered consulting one of the set-up threads here so as to replicate the actual set-up used by one of the more experienced drivers) as it can make a HUGE difference on how a car gets around, and "sorting out the diffs" means to me that it's time to go through the car and quite possibly time for a rebuild..... because just running diffs, without proper/routine maintenance, from day1 till the end of time, is just asking for problems - and definately something a little yanking on the diff adj screw won't cure. ~ hope that helps, but as was suggested before by another poster "there is no magic wand" and looking for one isn't the answer
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