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#1
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Just got my X6 Sq
Hey fellas,
I just got my X6 Sq that I had been waiting on for quite a while (USPS being very slow), and I gotta say it's a great kit. I was considering selling it and pre-ordering the new DEX210 but figured I would atleast try it out and am glad I did. Just had my first race meet with it on sunday and it went pretty good, we have only been going at it since March and I have a lot to improve on but I can tell already that it is a great kit. I race on a mixed surface of hard/dusty rock, gravel, loamy dirt and a whole lotta bumps and ruts/potholes (no jumps, well there is one, on the main straight but it doesn't get used). So it's safe to say that traction levels are all over the place. And I have to say, I do not understand why people claim that mid motor cars are useless on low bite surfaces. I have plenty of grip and a lot of steering, the only thing it could need more of is a little side bite as when I back off and turn the rear wants to step out nearly all the time. I could do with a little more mid corner/on power steering aswell but it's manageable. I reckon if I was running mod motor, I would easily be able to wheelie down the straight. |
#2
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Hey Shimmy - thanks for giving our car a try, and welcome to the family! I really appreciate reading posts like yours as it makes me feel good about what we're doing and the product we're making.
If you could write up your basic set-up (what camber links, shock settings, weight placement, etc) I could perhaps help with the small side-bite issue. |
#3
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Thanks for the reply, and it's good to be part of the family.
I have uploaded the setup sheep that I just filled out. I have changed a couple of things since I last ran it, I need to go test it again. I changed the rear inner camber links to the inside (was on the outside). 1 thin white shim under the toe block (for 3 degrees of anti squat?) springs and shock oil, the rear was harder and the front lighter, the rear is now a little softer while the front is a little harder. I have almost complete kyosho and Shumacher springs for my Kyosho Velvet shocks. I know the shock oil may seem a little odd, using heavier in the rear but being such a bumpy track, I decided to drill out the rear pistons to 1.5mm to reduce the pack thinking it would help keep the tyres on the track. The rebound is good but the compression sucks, it always bottoms out using the softer springs/lighter oil, so I may change back to the 3x1.2mm 3A pistons. |
#4
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new x6 owner
Good to see another convert ey...nice to see a great photo of the track you are running on as well and the fact your are finding success with the old mid guts on loose/dirt ...always good to see new owners enjoying this great platform ...as Paul said, it would be interesting to see what starting set-up you are running...oh...I'll have a look at your set-up sheet I'm so blind sometimes
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Team Durango - Inside Line Racing - Rudebits - dBoots - Trakpower Check out my trader feedback here - http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65776 Last edited by styleone; 31-08-2011 at 03:21 PM. Reason: added comment and details |
#5
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You could try to change the front inline axles to trailing put the servo forward and try the 2hole piston in front shocks with 35 oil
Rear arm position and hub position all way front and for anti-squat try one big and one small washer Mid-Motor cars need different braking style from rear motor cars You must use more the brakes on straight and not inside the turn and try less EPA for brakes than usually did on rear motor car |
#6
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X6 squared
I agree with Nic, the driving style is different to the rear motor buggy. I always run extra weight especially under the ESC and also to each side of the centre line under the lipo. The ride heights you were quoting on the setup sheet look a little low. Cannot comment on the shocks as I run Losi but generally higher weight in the front than the rear, 35wt & 30wt normal. In general my X6 weighs in heavier than my Cat SX.
Hope some of the above has been of help. |
#7
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Weighting on the car is much different on dirt than on astro/grass, so be careful there. Check the various set-up sheets posted on our site -- you'll see the U.S. ones (dirt) usually have much less weight and some of it is positioned differently.
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#8
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Quote:
As for the track though, it's about to get ripped up, this coming Monday work will begin to put down a 37m x 20m clay pad which we are going to put our own layout down. Kind of a shame as I have grown to like the current track but it is in desperate need. Each time it rains (quite often lately), people have been going out with brooms to try and sweep the water off to get it dry in time to race one and it's slowly destroying what was left of the track (has been there for years but never took off last time, so has been neglected since). The picture really does not show just how bad it is. Would appreciate any tips you could give, have only been racing since end of March but things are only just starting to come together at the track and so I'm still learning lots of new things (even though I have been in the hobby for nearly 3 years now). Quote:
The servo is forward already sorry, I made a mistake there. I have slowly been trying different shock/spring/piston setups, I have a few to test with. I have all kyosho pistons (and a couple of tamiya ones), with a set I have drilled out to 3x1.5mm, full set of Kyosho springs (I think it's a full set) and a set of Schumacher springs (missing 2 pairs I think). I also have 3 sets of Kyosho velvets so I should be able to do some back to back testing. I have AE 25w, 30w, 35w and 40w aswell. I have been trying different hub/arms spots to see if I can notice much difference, at the moment I can only notice very minute differences, I havn't tried all towards the front yet though. I'll try that extra anti-squat washer, I noticed the rear a little more planted in a straight line when I put the first small washer in. Yeah, I am noticing a few differences with the mid motor, just a matter of getting used to it but so far I like it, feels more natural to me, can actually drive it whereas the rear motor stadium truck I had before was more of a suggestion and point 'n' shoot. I'm still getting used to the features on my EX-10 Helios and will try out a lower EPA. I also have the 211/boost/timing software on my Xerun 60a ESC which has more options for brakes aswell. Whats the go with using ABS in 2wd EP buggies, just thinking there would be even less chance of locking up the wheels. Quote:
I was thinking about getting some stick on lead weights and running stiffer springs, as it is now, stiffer springs just make it bounce around too much but need them for the ride height and to stop it from dragging around. My thought was a bit more weight would make the suspension work a little better with the stiffer springs (probably counter-intuitive though, haha). The main problem with this is that I am running in a 17.5t class and don't have much power to spare. I did originally have 25wt rear and 30wt front with the smaller pistons but figured I would try larger pistons but needed a thicker oil, otherwise it was pretty much like water. In return though, it seemed the rear tyres were in contact with the ground more often but bottomed out easily. Quote:
Main reason I am doing what I am doing now is because I want to learn how they got those setups, and make one that works for me, on the track that I race on. If I make a lot of mistakes in the process, then hopefully, I'll be learning from them. Cheers fellas. Also, I have been messing about with it some more in the front yard and changed a few more things, seems more stable and predictable now, can really throw it into the turns (still need to confirm on the track though). EDIT: I have put on a sway bar (black B4, might get some piano wire to make a thinner one soon) and noticed it felt even better, pretty much planted and didnt break rear traction as often. Steering felt a little more linear aswell. I pulled the front end apart to take a look at the steering because I noticed that it didnt seem to keep the wheels pointed right in a turn, looked at the servo saver and noticed that the threads that the aluminium nut/bolt thingy goes into was partially striped. So I glued the servo saver together and noticed another improvement. Feels really good now. I then changed the tyres to VP Pro 201 (I think thats what they are) and got a bit more mid corner/ on power steering. I could do with just a little more but its feeling pretty good now. |
#9
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I'm glad to see you working on/thinking about the car. Hope you're have a blast! Beats heck out of sitting watching TV.
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#10
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Yeah, have learnt a bit along the way aswell.
My current setup might seem wrong or dodgy but it seems to be working for me so far. Even though, I've gotta go through the whole process again soon as the new track has been started now, hopefully we will have a basic flat pad by the end of the week, but I doubt it. We might be racing on grass this weekend, which would still be good, as it's what I've used for the most part to setup my buggy as it is (with a couple of exceptions, such as the soft suspension for the old track). Yeah, sure does beat sitting in front of the TV, haha. |
#11
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For a touch more mid-corner steering I would recommend either adding some washers on the front camber link, or try adding some droop to the front end (unscrew the shock ends a turn or so).
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#12
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Ta mate, I'll try adding a little more front droop first.
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#13
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Doesnt the oil slowly seep out when compressed with this method?
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#14
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Paul mean the shock ends (the plastic and ball bit that you screw to the wishbone) - not the shock cartridge or cap (which has the o rings in and retains the oil in the body).
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#15
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Quote:
I assumed that when the shock was full compressed, oil would leak out with there being a small opening. |
#16
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You don't screw the bottom eye all the way onto the shock shaft, thus lengthening the shaft. With Losi shocks, measure the overall length of the shaft so the two shocks are equal.
When you are finished building the shock, check the overall length with the shock fully compressed and fully extended. Measure from center of top mounting hole to center of eyelet hole. When both are equal, you'll have two shocks that perform identically. Usually we put a drop of Loctite in the eyelet, screw the eyelet all the way on the shaft, then back it off to get the length we want. Sometimes as much as three full turns! Team drivers will have several pair of shafts (different lengths) in their boxes for each pair of shocks. |
#17
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Well I gave the front end a little more droop and it was a little better, not much, just a little bit.
I undone the end about 3 turns I think it was, I have a total length of 77.5mm. I might make it a little shorter yet, I'll give it a little more time. Although it was a little better, under hard acceleration, there still wasn't a lot of steering and after watching it closely I noticed the rear was just going straight down every time. My first thought was to take out the squat washer but then decided to put a different piston in the shocks. So, I now have the 3A (3x 1.2mm) kyosho piston in the rear with 275CST/25w oil. When I tested it this time, the difference was amazing, just so much steering everywhere. I don't think theres much more I should do to it for a while now. I still don't understand why people put down the mid motor buggies though, I can't really fault it at the moment (atleast not the X6). The new clay track might be ready by sunday, although it will most likely just be a flat pad as the jumps havn't been made yet and as it is now, needs a roller put over it to flatten/smooth it out. We still havn't decided on a track layout yet but there are a few ideas popping about. If it's not ready, then we will be mowing down the grass and give one of the track ideas a go. We also might be getting a new drivers stand, in the shape of a 45' semi trailer, with a roof and a raised floor. |
#18
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This is quite the track make-over. Are you bringing in more dirt?
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#19
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Will be bringing in a little more, just to finish it off and some jumps and stuff.
Had a whacker packer put over it today but was apparently too dry to make much of a difference, so tomorrow a bunch of fellas are going back to give it another go (should be raining tonight). So, come sunday, we should be running on the clay. |
#20
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I love it. "Whacker packer." Looking at the excavator used to dismantle the old track, I assume you mean "vibrating roller?"
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