Tamiya 201 based vega

[lordnikon]

Not knowing much about these and the parts, sorry but can any of the parts be hard to get ? Looking at possibly buying one but i dont want to be caught short with bits i will probably break.

Anything that should be stocked parts wise or any strange requirements that are useful to know in advance ??

[xfactor]

Hi, i ran a tamiya 201 when they first came out, K parts are the one you couldnt get, thats the front bulkhead dont know if you can now, i had to buy another kit just to get the bulkhead just check you may get them know.

[mattybucks]

Replace the idler gears for RW ones. I have one in stock but if you get a Vega you will require two.

[Dyna]

Check the front kick up on the alloy chassis with the 201 Vega version - its a milled V-cut that is then bent up to create the front chassis kick up. After a while a stress fracture can occur from the bending process and weaken or snap the front alloy kick up off, meaning you would need a complete new chassis.

After i saw pictures of Lee Martins one snapped off and noticing stress fractures also in mine i decided to be safe so ive re-enforced the area with a seperate milled piece bonded to the chassis under the steering arms. Now its far more solid and shouldnt break. Hopefully.

Apart from that possible problem, do the upgraded idler gears as suggested above, and keep a spare rear shock tower as this is Vega-specific. A spare set of wishbones all round to be sure - rears can break more often than the fronts and are side-specific. Make sure the diff halves arent too grooved from U/J wear - if they are replace them as it plays havok with the handling when they are worn. If you want to use front wheels other than Tamiya's own, get the optional set of axles & a set of bearings so you can use other manufacturers wheels. The rest of the TRF parts are relatively easy to get - JT Models can get most things within a week or so if its not in stock. But again to be safe ive a large spares stock myself just in case...

You also need the under speedo Rudebits weight, i also use the Lee Martin brass front bulkhead which is great, and if its a really bumpy track i also use the under-saddle brass weight which keeps it really planted. I use machined rear wishbones with gains me 5mm on the wheelbase ( longer wheelbase is definitely better outdoors on bumpy tracks ) but can make the wishbones slighly more fragile - and you have to add a little weight on the rear if its slippy as youve moved the weight from over the rear wheels by machining the rear wishbones. But if you are getting a new one the 2nd generation chassis are now longer so you dont have to butcher the wishbones.

If i were buying one again however i'd go for the Kyosho RB5 version that uses the seperate plastic front chassis, if only for peace of mind of the front end being replaceable cheaply.

[Dalton]

Vega have upgraded the front ends and are now welded on the back edge to give extra strength seen on my new kit below :-